2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Finally Finished the 4 month body project!!!!

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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 05:32 PM
  #26  
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Well I thought if I molded the wing I would actually ruin some of the lines of the body because i would have to gradually mold it into the rear quarter panel. I have a few pics of cars that had it done and it just didnt suit my taste so to speak.

So what I did was mold the back of it to the car and bondo the small gaps so that it looks like it was part of the car and that the lines were supposed to be there. It doesnt look bolt on close up at all it actually turned out better than i expected.

If you are interested I bought all the stuff from www.paintforcars.com they tend to have fairly decent paint and great prices. Prices you definately cant compete with no matter where you go.

I am not sure about the wing but there was definately a wing thread a week ago search for it. I am pretty sure it was talked about in there. I bought it from a forum member on here and was told there is no company as of right now that makes a knock off it is strictly from japan.

Thanks again guys for the input and keep it coming... yea I am pretty sure it will grow on me as well... I may plan on powdercoating the rims gunmetal or black because the car is now lighter than I thought but I wont do that untill i see them on the car and make some final decisions...

All the future plans are on my cardomain website as well...
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 05:38 PM
  #27  
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tom port.. AKA streetport
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very nice!! man i want that wing. i like the color. i actually considered painting mine the same color. metallic gray. although it was left over paint form my old job but its the same gray they use on escalades and its ppg so you know its good. how much did you pay for the wing? did you have any problems with dirt? did you wet the floor? i usually paint in a garage so i know what its like. its not to bad if ya prep the garage good.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 05:54 PM
  #28  
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Yea i love the wing... umm no the only problem I had was the fact that it was so cold it was making it hard for the paint to dry and the paint seemed to be a little thicker so we had to apply more reducer... I did wet the floor though and I used a devilbiss gun from ebay like 130 or so.

I paid the guy on this forum like 250 shipped for the wing so it wasnt cheap but it was a definate necessity for me because i loved it so much. Yea ppg paint is amazing quality I kinda skimped on the paint and saved some money on it but it worked out well anyway. The only downfall to the cheap paint was the color was not quite the same as the color chip but thats ok.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 06:19 PM
  #29  
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looks bronze to me and i think it will look awesome with some nice wide brushed aluminum spoke wheels.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 09:28 PM
  #30  
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great work..... dont care for how you partially molded the mouldings......but if you like it, thats all that matters! i do appriciate the craftsmenship! everything i do on my car is cotravercial! so i respect others when they try to be different from everyone else! so kudos!
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 11:16 PM
  #31  
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That's an Erebuni wing or close to it. You can still get them, they're not japanese.

http://www.erebunicorp.com/CLEARANCE/marx7.htm

What out with that Rayflex paint. It will like to peel and swirl a lot. Keep it protected with a GOOD wax and you might be okay. Do you garage it? Lots of UV is murder on that stuff.

For others looking to repaint, www.autobodysupply.net carries Matrix paint. You can pick up enough to paint a car well for about 400 bucks, including primers and clear. It's equivalent to PPG (even mixes with it), and has gotten good reviews from my local body shops (they use it).

Not trying to jack your thread, just making sure others are aware of what Rayflex is, quality wise.

Watch out with that bondo on just part of the wing, temperature changes are likely to crack it, as the expansion rates are different. I molded my wing, but used 4 layers of glass mat over a total of 6' x 1' of surface area. Bondo doesn't flex much to make up for the expansion rate differences, and it's not strong enough of a bond to hold them together.

What did you bond the wing to the car with?

Last edited by digitalsolo; Dec 18, 2005 at 11:23 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 11:22 PM
  #32  
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well the wing is on the car by rivets as well as two pretty massive bolts. The wing didnt even move I just bondod the slight gaps in edges to make it look sealed to the car. So I essentially didnt bondo the wing persay.

Thank you for letting everyone know about the rayflex paint this was my first body work experience and paint so like I said I am no expert and I think people deserve to know what is what.

I also noticed that CAP carries dupli color or dupont premixed paint for like 50 a gallon again prob not top quality stuff but will get the job done im sure for a daily driver. Either way thanks for the input guys and keep it coming.

If it does flake and peel I am not worried seeing as I dont like the color much anyway I will prob repaint it in the next year or so. I again got all the supplies for well under 200 so I cant really complain as of yet but I will keep you guys posted as to how the paint works out.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 11:27 PM
  #33  
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Make sure if you repaint, you strip all of that old paint off completely. Otherwise any problems you have will come right back through. :-) I say all this because I did a cheapo paint job about 14 months ago and just finished bare metal stripping and respraying because of adhesion problems.

Hopefully this is all moot and it stays together great though. :-)
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 10:18 AM
  #34  
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Thanks digital i hope so too... but either way i may have to repaint it anyway. I will def strip off the paint though if i do decide to do that.

Also that wing is close but definately not the same wing it is much higher.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 11:11 AM
  #35  
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thanks for posting the site. i assume its this wing??
375 375RW 86-91 3dr Custom RW. Mold On Style 175
http://www.erebunicorp.com/CLEARANCE/marx7.htm
i really like the car! post more pics.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 11:46 AM
  #36  
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That is definately not the same wing I can tell by the height the wing sticks up... although it is close it is definately not the same. It also doesnt sit on the car as far back. But yes the 375rw is the closest I have seen yet to matching... I will get more pics up this weekend hopefully
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 09:10 AM
  #37  
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Does anyone know the best way to keep the shine on new paint or how long I should wait to wax the car?
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 01:29 AM
  #38  
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rofl, you painted the tires

oh and, put on as many clear coats as you can afford, and wax the crap out of it, atleast one a week when you can (ie no rain or whatever) and keep it clean. last forever, just show it some love
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 03:06 AM
  #39  
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hey it looks good left some feed back on the cardomain
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 11:36 AM
  #40  
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tourn now from what i heard you are not supposed to wax it for like 2 months or something after new paint is that true... lol yea i painted the tires because i didnt care haha the other ones are going on anyway those are just shitty f around tires
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 04:10 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by digitalsolo
Make sure if you repaint, you strip all of that old paint off completely. Otherwise any problems you have will come right back through

This is quite true however quite misleading at the same time

the only reason your paint would peel from whatever it was painted onto is due to either contamination or poor sanding. IF THE PAINT UNDERNTEAH YOUR PAINT comes off then it should have been stripped.

Keep in mind that when you strip the car....thats when you find out alot about these cars and their history with bodyshops....meaning that you will no doubt find many many dings that were filled, rust holes that were filled - you will be exposing all the ugly.

but on the upside - once you see the ugly, you can make it beautiful....then do your body work, prime and paint.

But as far as bare metaling the car being necessary - not in the slightest degree......1% of all the paint jobs I have done in my body shop have been bare metal - and I don't have many comebacks.....so in short if you are just cleaning up dents and a few rust spots there is ABSOLUTELY NO ADVANTAGE to baremetaling the vechicle...other than saying you did.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 04:11 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Xbladr
tourn now from what i heard you are not supposed to wax it for like 2 months or something after new paint is that true
what type of paint was it?

base clear?
acrylic enamel?
urethane?
alklyd enamel?

hehehe lacuqer?hehehe

edit: if it was base clear - once its dry (as far as waxing is concerned) its waxable......however the reducers and solvent in the paint will continue to weep from it for approx. 5 days - which is the reason you should wait at least a week before applying vynil decals to fresh paint - otherwise it traps the solvent and will bubble the decals
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 06:13 PM
  #43  
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That silver is the secks... can't wait to see the car fully put together!
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 10:34 PM
  #44  
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Thanks hop... it was an enamel base and enamel clear
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 10:41 AM
  #45  
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What color was the primer / base?
I bet it was light colored?
If you had gone with a dark or black primer, I think you would've gotten your darker gun-metal color...


-Ted
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 01:28 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Xbladr
it was an enamel base and enamel clear

ENAMEL BASE AND ENAMEL CLEAR
**** man.....no wonder it was under 200 bucks for everything
I wouldn't be touching that thing to be completely honest....enamel is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to buff back up unless you are really really...one more...REALLY experienced and familiar with it.

as far as applying wax I would wait AT LEAST 3 weeks with enamel...it is **** (please don't take offense to that, but its true)

The car looks decent enough though in the pics...and for what you spent dollar wise you got your money's worth.....

if you want to redo it in a year or so though you are going to have to remove all of that enamel paint....as any reducers or thinners you apply to it will soften it (just the nature of enamels) as well you MAY have to remove whatever primer you put on.....please lord don't say it was lacquer....if it was urethane primer you'll be safe..but enamel based primer or lacquer based will soften with thnnier/reducer aswell - it may even start to show your body work in a few months if its enamel primer....
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 02:02 PM
  #47  
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I like what you did with the line around the rear bumper. Good color too.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 02:58 PM
  #48  
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I used a gray primer... classic i may have lied i went out and checked the clear i used and it was a urethane clear over the enamel base coat... yea i am not expecting much of this most of the body work was done when I want to paint it again it should be as easy as masking her off again and just stripping down the current paint... This was more of a test for me because it was my first paint job and my first body work job so all in all I am fairly pleased.


I just finished putting the door panels back on as well as the taillights and everything so I should get pics for you guys in a day or two... I am also going to try to mount the rims but dont have wheel locks yet so I may wait on that we will see... thanks for all the comments guys
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 02:27 AM
  #49  
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wheres the pic's
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 09:04 AM
  #50  
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sorry man havent got a chance to post them up yet the damn thing is sitting in my garage all finished I will go outside today and snap a few shots... I think I am going to need 5mm spacers for the fronts though but the rims and lights look great I think
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