Finally!
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Finally!
After four years and forgetting how everything came apart, thank heaven for all the pictures I took, I finally put the rebuilt engine and tranny back into the 90 Turbo. A couple more weeks and I'll be able to see if it starts. Then it's focusing on getting it ready for repaint.
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Looks good Keith . I see you labeled pretty much everything , a smart move It's surprising how often one forgets where things go. I know I forget so that is always the first thing I do and I still screw up sometimes . good luck hope it treats you good .
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I figured if I was going to do it, I might as well do it right. I depinned the electrical conneters and got some heat shrinkable sleaving and labeled all the connectors. Before I dropped it in, I went through both the engibe bay and the engine and green or blue tapped everything that wasn't connected so it's easy to spot and hard to forget. Like I said, it took almost four years to get to this point.
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oh yea I know it took two years for my bike build to get so I could race it then this year rebuilt #2 engine and upgrade frame and small stuff . I find the little engines a great hobby , the closer I get to being finished the less I want to be finished . I've been looking for a nice little turbo car but they are very hard to find in Saskatchewan at least anything worth starting on , most of them have been either stripped or beat up . anything decent is pretty pricey. but some day I will find one that has been put away. Your little car looks like it's pretty fair shape from what I can see in the pics . Gerald m.
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Nothing wrong with using the shopping list so long as it ends up eggs, eggs = milk , milk = tomatoes , tomatoes . if ya mix up the milk and tomatoes you end up with curdled soup . good point Dave .
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I finally found one of those elusive parts that no one ever seems to know about. Between the bypass valve and that snorkle thing that goes from the bottom of the intercooler and the top of the turbo is a littl brass restricer plug. I never knew it needed one until close scrutiny of the parts manual showed it. It wasn't there when I disassemble the engine and it wasn't on the JDM engine I had. I found the last one in the US at a dealership in IL. I never drove the car enough after I got it becasue the engine blew, so I don't know what impact not having it would make, so not taking any chances and getting one for it.
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It's a little brass restricter PN n37013986 and I never knew it existed and the folks at Mazdatrix weren't either, but the Parts manual calls for it on 89-7-17 and later models
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Will not having the other restricter pill in the air line that goes to the boost sensor cause a unsteady idle? I have an unsteady idle on my S5NA and it doesn't have that resrticter.
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i doubt it would be the root cause of an unsteady idle but i have seen the pressure readings fluctuate quite erratically on series 5 engines without the restrictor to the pressure sensor(upwards of 5"Hg, after installing a pill the readings steady out quite a bit).
the result is usually off idle under a heavy load, timing bounces around a bit since that sensor is mainly what the ECU uses for timing and not much of anything else. modded ECUs like the Rtek rely on it for the fuel and timing tables both(which is mainly how i even found out about this problem).
wired open auxiliary ports, timing off, TPS off, worn out ignition components and vacuum leaks are usually the cause of a rough idle.
rotary engines produce quite a bit of intake pressure resonance which will affect anything that uses a vacuum source close to the engine. basically the readings flutter more as RPMs increase. the AFM being so far upstream isn't affected.
the result is usually off idle under a heavy load, timing bounces around a bit since that sensor is mainly what the ECU uses for timing and not much of anything else. modded ECUs like the Rtek rely on it for the fuel and timing tables both(which is mainly how i even found out about this problem).
wired open auxiliary ports, timing off, TPS off, worn out ignition components and vacuum leaks are usually the cause of a rough idle.
rotary engines produce quite a bit of intake pressure resonance which will affect anything that uses a vacuum source close to the engine. basically the readings flutter more as RPMs increase. the AFM being so far upstream isn't affected.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 02-19-13 at 12:29 PM.
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Got the transmission with short shifter, driveshaft, and exhaust hung, plus gave the underneath a nice new rubber undercoat.
On the lower left and right side of the transmission, there are bolt holes and I have bolts partly threaded into them, but can't figure out what goes on there. It's nothing to do with mounting because it's mounted not sure if I just put bolts into the holes to cover the holes of not. The next goal is to get all the hoses hooked up and install the A/C compressor and PWR StRNG pump.
On the lower left and right side of the transmission, there are bolt holes and I have bolts partly threaded into them, but can't figure out what goes on there. It's nothing to do with mounting because it's mounted not sure if I just put bolts into the holes to cover the holes of not. The next goal is to get all the hoses hooked up and install the A/C compressor and PWR StRNG pump.
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Got the transmission with short shifter, driveshaft, and exhaust hung, plus gave the underneath a nice new rubber undercoat.
On the lower left and right side of the transmission, there are bolt holes and I have bolts partly threaded into them, but can't figure out what goes on there. It's nothing to do with mounting because it's mounted not sure if I just put bolts into the holes to cover the holes of not. The next goal is to get all the hoses hooked up and install the A/C compressor and PWR StRNG pump.
On the lower left and right side of the transmission, there are bolt holes and I have bolts partly threaded into them, but can't figure out what goes on there. It's nothing to do with mounting because it's mounted not sure if I just put bolts into the holes to cover the holes of not. The next goal is to get all the hoses hooked up and install the A/C compressor and PWR StRNG pump.
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Got the holes figured out as soon as I slid the forward part of the exhaust system in. Also found the use for that wierd hanger thing. Got the tranny and rear end flushed and refilled, plus the brakes all bled out. Bleeding with the ABS system is kind of a pain in the butt. I actually never knew that year RX-7's had ABS until I got this car. The starter is connected as well as the electrical on the underside of the engine and I only have one disconnected plug. It comes out of the harness about where the oil level sensor plug does. It is a single Black/red wire male white plug and I'm wondering if it went to a cold start system. Seems to me I remember there being an additional sensor or something on the oil pan of cars with the cold weather start. If so, no problem becasue I don't have that. I can't find any where else it would connect to becasue everything is connected already, even the condensor by the tranny.
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Finally
Been through the wire manual and the only Black/Red wire single connector I can find is going to the starter and the one has a black connector and a heavier guage. Here are some pictures.
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The power steering pump has two connectors closer to the front of the car as well as the connector for the A/C clutch. I thought there were different oil pans that had not only the low oil sender but also another plug that was part of the AWS system.
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I've decided to not install the Air conditioning system back in the car. I think by removing the compressor and condensor, as well as all the piping, it should improve air flow through the engine and provide a little less restricted cooling to the radiator. I never used it any way.