1) is it pretty common that i will have to buy a new housing or rotorfor the rotor that lost its compression

2) what tools are required that everyone keps refering too but never saying

Thanks for the help
Dennis

btw 86 n/a

 

It depends on what happened. If you popped an apex seal and drove it for a while after it happened, then you will prob need at least new housings, and maybe a new rotor. If you stopped immediately once it happened, you might get away with just resurfacing. You really cant tell until the motors apart.

 

have you taken it apart already? if so, do you have pix?

edit: as far as tools go, for disassembly, a dowel pin remover is a life saver, as well as a good impact gun-ive delt with some VERY stuck tension bolts before. pilot bearing remover and flywheel nut wrench are also helpful.
you'll also want a flywheel stopper, clutch alignment tool, if your dont already have one, a rotary engine stand adapter. hylomar is useful when putting the seals in.
tools can be found here: http://www.mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm

are you doing a stock rebuild or dong any sort of porting?

post pix of the process to let us know how it goes

 

if it has lost compression plan on it needing a rotor and housing for that side, if either is usable then you will come out ahead.

 

engine is not apart, bought the car not running in belief that something else was wrong (it sat for about 4 years before i got it) so maybe just sat too long and evrything is still good?

comp test is pending to tell exactly what the problem is
and i plan on street porting it since im in no rush because its not my daily driver

thanks for the info

Dennis

edit: the full story on the car is that it sat for a while, and ran before it sat as far as i know, when i got it, it did not run at all, the fuel pump was shot, changed it and still had problems till i posted vids of it running on here and was told it had lost compression on a rotor

 

Its possible that its only running on one rotor for another reason. Plugs bad, injectors not firing, etc. It might not have a bad rotor after all. Compression tests are fairly easy to do, at least to check if a rotor lost compression. Get a regular compression tester at auto zone, stick it in the spark plug hole, and see if the nnedle jumps. If it barely moves, then the rotor is shot.

 

ok, going to do that tommorrow morning, will keep you guys posted
thanks
Dennis

 

compression test results: 90 psi front rotors, 0 psi rear rotor
guess its time to tear it down

 

no arguing with those numbers...

good luck and keep us informed!

 

ok will do

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2288266/2
the pix kinda tell the story

got 2 housings with 70k or less on them, and a new rotor, gonna begin porting 2morrow, and getting a full rebuild kit from Atkins as soon as finances allow

thanks
Dennis

 

those damn rear rotors always going out. haha i bought mine with a bad motor too and when i took it apart my rotor was good, seal still intact but the housing had a nice gawg going around it.

 

tona of other parts need to be repaced on mine, i sure hope i like driving it whens its done, cuase if not i just wasted a ton of change on it

 

can you do a rebuild without a dowelpin puller? flame me if you want as long as i learn how to do it right.

 

a couple of mine slid right out, prolly still a pain not to do it w/o one tho

 

Nasty.

 

getting replaced