FD fuel pump into FC....
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FD fuel pump into FC....
91 TII, DP, intake, FCD, catback(still have main cat.).
I was wondering if a fuel pump from an FD with cover me here, and if anyone has done this before, is it an easy install or will there be some rewiring?
I was wondering if a fuel pump from an FD with cover me here, and if anyone has done this before, is it an easy install or will there be some rewiring?
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Re: FD fuel pump into FC....
Originally posted by T2 Tsunami
91 TII, DP, intake, FCD, catback(still have main cat.).
I was wondering if a fuel pump from an FD with cover me here, and if anyone has done this before, is it an easy install or will there be some rewiring?
91 TII, DP, intake, FCD, catback(still have main cat.).
I was wondering if a fuel pump from an FD with cover me here, and if anyone has done this before, is it an easy install or will there be some rewiring?
... but yes, an FD fuel pump will work great in an FC. FD pumps should be good for appx 330 hp. I ran an FD pump with a full exhaust(dp, mp, catback), intakes, FMIC S-AFC boost .8 kilos - 1.0 kilos.
It installs just like you de-install the FD pump. Looks almost identical.
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Like jspecracer7 said, it is an easy swap.
With just those mods though, you will run rich, so be prepared to replace your spark plugs every 5k miles or so.
I have a K&N intake, Mindtrain dowpipe, high flow cat, and cat-back, and I still run very rich due to the higher rail pressures with the 3rd gen fuel pump. At least you never have to worry about leaning out the engine with it in there.
With just those mods though, you will run rich, so be prepared to replace your spark plugs every 5k miles or so.
I have a K&N intake, Mindtrain dowpipe, high flow cat, and cat-back, and I still run very rich due to the higher rail pressures with the 3rd gen fuel pump. At least you never have to worry about leaning out the engine with it in there.
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#9
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Originally posted by Salguod
Like jspecracer7 said, it is an easy swap.
With just those mods though, you will run rich, so be prepared to replace your spark plugs every 5k miles or so.
I have a K&N intake, Mindtrain dowpipe, high flow cat, and cat-back, and I still run very rich due to the higher rail pressures with the 3rd gen fuel pump. At least you never have to worry about leaning out the engine with it in there.
Like jspecracer7 said, it is an easy swap.
With just those mods though, you will run rich, so be prepared to replace your spark plugs every 5k miles or so.
I have a K&N intake, Mindtrain dowpipe, high flow cat, and cat-back, and I still run very rich due to the higher rail pressures with the 3rd gen fuel pump. At least you never have to worry about leaning out the engine with it in there.
Why do you have higher rail pressures with the FD pump? Shouldn't the FPR maintain the same pressures with the FD pump as the FC pump? The only difference is the pressure won't drop at high load because the FD will be able to flow more than the FC pump.
I put in a FD fuel pump in my TII, drop-in, no changes required at all. I measured the voltage at the pump under load with and without the headlights on.
TII pump 11.9 V no headlights 11.6V with headlights on
FD pump 11.6V no headlights, 11.3V with headlights on
Obviously the FD pump draws a little more current, had no problems with the car running rich, tested with a wideband O2 sensor. Rewiring would probably give a little more flow but we didn't need it so I didn't rewire.
Jeff
Triple Threat Motorsports
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Originally posted by T2 Tsunami
I'm assuming that I have to dissconnect battery for this install. And is it safe to say that it is better to run rich then lean out?.
I'm assuming that I have to dissconnect battery for this install. And is it safe to say that it is better to run rich then lean out?.
Running rich will actually cause you to lose power, get crappy milage, chew up spark plugs, and will cause your OEM main cat to overwork and fail (as mine did). There are also arguments that the extra fuel washes down the oil so you get less lubrication where it needs to be.
If you just have to get one, then get a fuel computer (Super AFC etc.) to go with it, to shorten the duty cycle of th primary injectors, and keep it running at stoich.
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Originally posted by turbojeff
What?
Why do you have higher rail pressures with the FD pump? Shouldn't the FPR maintain the same pressures with the FD pump as the FC pump? The only difference is the pressure won't drop at high load because the FD will be able to flow more than the FC pump.
What?
Why do you have higher rail pressures with the FD pump? Shouldn't the FPR maintain the same pressures with the FD pump as the FC pump? The only difference is the pressure won't drop at high load because the FD will be able to flow more than the FC pump.
This is typical. The stock pressure regulator can't handle the high flow of the FD (or most other high flow aftermarket fuel pumps). To solve the problem you have to rig up an aftermarket FPR, or get a AFC.
Don't take my word for it, do a search on the topic.
Later
#12
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I've said it before and I'll say it again: you cannot fine tune with an A/F guage. If you want to do fine tuning, you will need a dyno, wideband O2 sensor, and good voltmeter.
The fuel pressure is raised because the flow from the FD pump is too much for the stock FPR to deal with.
The fuel pressure is raised because the flow from the FD pump is too much for the stock FPR to deal with.
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
The fuel pressure is raised because the flow from the FD pump is too much for the stock FPR to deal with.
The fuel pressure is raised because the flow from the FD pump is too much for the stock FPR to deal with.
#16
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You don't want to run stoich, except at idle or cruise, where the ecu is running in lean run mode, going back and forth around stoich for gas mileage sake. At WOT, running stoich...14 to 1 ratio, you'd blow up your engine, since the rotary needs to be in the 12 to 1 or 11 to 1 ratio, depending on mods. I think Salgoud was refering to idle and part throttle.
Tim Benton
Tim Benton
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Originally posted by Tim Benton
You don't want to run stoich, except at idle or cruise, where the ecu is running in lean run mode, going back and forth around stoich for gas mileage sake. At WOT, running stoich...14 to 1 ratio, you'd blow up your engine, since the rotary needs to be in the 12 to 1 or 11 to 1 ratio, depending on mods. I think Salgoud was refering to idle and part throttle.
Tim Benton
You don't want to run stoich, except at idle or cruise, where the ecu is running in lean run mode, going back and forth around stoich for gas mileage sake. At WOT, running stoich...14 to 1 ratio, you'd blow up your engine, since the rotary needs to be in the 12 to 1 or 11 to 1 ratio, depending on mods. I think Salgoud was refering to idle and part throttle.
Tim Benton
I have to get out my incorrect habit of thinking of stoich as the the correct mixture at each rpm range, and remember that it actually means 14 to 1 A/F (which WILL blow your engine if you are running that lean at WOT).
All I meant to get across was that with his mods he should still be running at the correct A/F mixture levels with his stock fuel pump even at WOT.
My Bad.
#18
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Originally posted by Salguod
Check your fuel pressure now. Mine jumped almost 10PSI higher than what the stock rating for an 88 T2.
This is typical. The stock pressure regulator can't handle the high flow of the FD (or most other high flow aftermarket fuel pumps). To solve the problem you have to rig up an aftermarket FPR, or get a AFC.
Don't take my word for it, do a search on the topic.
Later
Check your fuel pressure now. Mine jumped almost 10PSI higher than what the stock rating for an 88 T2.
This is typical. The stock pressure regulator can't handle the high flow of the FD (or most other high flow aftermarket fuel pumps). To solve the problem you have to rig up an aftermarket FPR, or get a AFC.
Don't take my word for it, do a search on the topic.
Later
So in my experience the stock FPR did just fine with the FD pump.
This WAS NOT a a/f meter, it was a FJO wideband O2 sensor mounted in the DP.
Jeff
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
I've said it before and I'll say it again: you cannot fine tune with an A/F guage. If you want to do fine tuning, you will need a dyno, wideband O2 sensor, and good voltmeter.
I've said it before and I'll say it again: you cannot fine tune with an A/F guage. If you want to do fine tuning, you will need a dyno, wideband O2 sensor, and good voltmeter.
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