arghx

iTrader: (3)

I don't follow. What makes 4 longer studs that expensive? I thought about doing this myself because like the poster mentioned, it's hard to find FC manifolds. I was just concerned that I'd get the turbo and mani bolted up and nothing else would fit right.

katkaroto

saying that the exhaust manifold from a FD can be direct bolt on to the FC.. would that also mean that the intake manifolds of the FD bolt on the FC?

RETed

We had to do this for a customer car, and it was next to impossible to find METRIC thread rod that long...nevermind trying to find high heat rated (i.e. copper coated) stuff.
Specifically, 10mm x 1.50.
This is Hawaii, so you guys might have better luck?

We ended up redrilling and retapping the holes to accomodate SAE threaded rod, cause that's all we could find.
We just have to remember to use SAE wrenches / sockets to take the nuts off. :P


-Ted

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

No

initial D is REAL!

I was actrually able to find these studs at my local hardware store. They charge a lot for their stuff, but they have some stuff that I cant find anywhere else

RETed

Share!
How much longer than stock?
Is is regular thread rod or high heat (longer) studs?


-Ted

initial D is REAL!

I just tried looking for them. Sorry my dad went into the garage and rearrange it to his liking. I had it in the box with my old turbo parts. I bought them because I was going to use the studs so I can put a .5"flange to bring out my hybrid turbo a little. I am pretty sure they were long enough to fully thread the nuts on with a .5" spacer. I was not given any specifics about the type of stud it was. All i know is that is was stock threading

The place is Berg Hardware in Pasadena, i dont believe they have a website

TitaniumTT

No teal becuase I wasn't being sarcastic. I'm looking for 375-400RWHP. While the chassis rolled of the assembly line in N/A form, I don't think any stock pieces remain unmolested in one way. No wait, the headlight motors and one fender The OP really doesn't have a clue and should've spent way more time searching and less time burning money. I mean the amount of stuff needed to know about the sequentials and the operation and thr trouble shooting involved - to think they would bolt on and work with the factory ecu -

Aaron - To say the stock twins are garbage is a little much. Why are there replacement sequential twins that cost more than more people buy & spend on their FC's flying off the shelves? Why do most FD guys who are looking for all around fun cars not only keep the twins but keep them sequential? Why are only a fe happy converting to non-sequential. When working properly IMO they can't be beat by a single unless your goal is silly hp.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I cleaned up the thread, removing posts that don't really contribute and make fun of the original poster. Don't think I removed anything with actual information in it...

OK, stop right there.

There are many differences between the NA engine and turbo engine in the 2nd gen. However for this thread, the most important difference is the lower intake manifold.

The NA lower intake has all the castings and actuators for the aux port system and thus sticks out 2.5" or so farther then the TII intake manifold. If you intend to mount any turbo on the NA engine, it needs to be spaced much farther out then on the TII engine. The FD turbos actually sit closer to the engine then the stock TII turbo and thus require a spacer (about 1") even when mounted on the TII engine. On the NA engine, you need to get so close to the fender that making a downpipe is going to be a major hassle. And the bends will be so severe that flow will be terrible.

You can mount the TII intake manifold onto the NA engine with some port matching on the lower intake. Just search "TII lower intake NA", "tII lower intake port matching" or other combinations to see examples.

You can't fit the FD lower intake onto the NA engine.

Then there are all the other issues of turbocharging the NA engine. Injectors, oil and water for the turbo, custom exhaust, intercooler setup, ECU, etc. etc. See this page for more info:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm

On the FD, they are sequential and very problematic at that. This is now in the realm of basic research. Even just a Google search for "FD RX-7" probably would have answered this. This is not meant as an insult, but if you can't perform basic research then just sell the turbos now. Frankly I think you should sell them anyway.

Probably not, when you see the work needed. How much fabrication have you done? Are you familiar with engine management? Have you ever set up a turbo system before?

No, No and No. No again. The FD exhaust manifold bolts to the 13B NA in the sense that the bolt holes line up. There is still a tonne of work to make it actually fit. The FD intake manifolds have a completely different bolt and port pattern.

Maybe "garbage" is a little harsh, but every FD I've ever seen has needed a new set of turbos, or is already single. Though I am generally biased against the FD as a whole car. Never liked them.

katkaroto

hmm.. i am going to go with a single turbo as well as trying to figure out the twin.. and i'm going to change the intake manifold to the turbo2 intake manifolds.

and as for the site to the almost complete guide to turbo-ing a natural aspirated rotary, i've been analyzing this set up.. getting ideas from it too..


well, i did that and i cant really find much about it except that of wikepedia. and i'm kinda just want to see pictures of a stock FD twin turbo set up.. all the pics i see are just stand alone twin turbos that are out of the engine or just FD motors.

so in theory, the FD exhaust manifold would fit but i'd just have to custom a few things around right?

well, in some point i am biased against the other RX7's to a general point only because people swap V8 into what was a rotary.



in the end, thanks Aaron!!