FD engine and gearbox BOLT-IN to FC?
03-08-10, 07:02 PM
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FD engine and gearbox BOLT-IN to FC?
hi there
i have come across a low km fd S6 engine and gearbox with loom etc and its gotten me curious whether or not it'll bolt into my fc
do both engines have the exact same mounts?
would i need the s4 sump and front cover on there?
or is it going to go my way and just bolt in?
would the gearbox bolt up to my fc chassis and fit the gearstick through the fc hole?
would my existing driveshaft on my fc both upto the fc gearbox?
sorry if this has been covered before searching brought up a lot of unrelateds
thanks
i have come across a low km fd S6 engine and gearbox with loom etc and its gotten me curious whether or not it'll bolt into my fc
do both engines have the exact same mounts?
would i need the s4 sump and front cover on there?
or is it going to go my way and just bolt in?
would the gearbox bolt up to my fc chassis and fit the gearstick through the fc hole?
would my existing driveshaft on my fc both upto the fc gearbox?
sorry if this has been covered before searching brought up a lot of unrelateds
thanks
03-08-10, 07:48 PM
#3
Sure, just bolt it in. Easy as pie.
1) get bolts
2) insert into hole
3) tighten!
http://shookmotorsports.com/FCProducts
http://motivefab.com/products
1) get bolts
2) insert into hole
3) tighten!
http://shookmotorsports.com/FCProducts
http://motivefab.com/products
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03-09-10, 02:18 PM
#15
hi there
i have come across a low km fd S6 engine and gearbox with loom etc and its gotten me curious whether or not it'll bolt into my fc No.
do both engines have the exact same mounts? No.
would i need the s4 sump and front cover on there?
or is it going to go my way and just bolt in? No.
would the gearbox bolt up to my fc chassis and fit the gearstick through the fc hole? No.
would my existing driveshaft on my fc both upto the fc gearbox? No.
sorry if this has been covered before searching brought up a lot of unrelateds
thanks
i have come across a low km fd S6 engine and gearbox with loom etc and its gotten me curious whether or not it'll bolt into my fc No.
do both engines have the exact same mounts? No.
would i need the s4 sump and front cover on there?
or is it going to go my way and just bolt in? No.
would the gearbox bolt up to my fc chassis and fit the gearstick through the fc hole? No.
would my existing driveshaft on my fc both upto the fc gearbox? No.
sorry if this has been covered before searching brought up a lot of unrelateds
thanks
-Collin
03-10-10, 11:56 PM
#16
Not to beat a dead horse..
So everyone else covered this well, and it's covered elsewhere with the search function. But, to answer the question in the interest of helpfulness... The mounts are different enough as to make custom work necessary. Either custom mounts (most agree not the best solution as it loads the mounts wrong) or subframe modification (if you can fabricate and measure, not too bad, otherwise, a problem) There are piping issues with intercooler, oil cooler, radiator, and exhaust etc. Again, a little custom work. If you use stock turbos, you need the right flange for the elbow, i'm not sur about smog laws out there but I hear it's not a problem, but if you feel the need to use stock parts for cost or whatever else.. If you use the stock ecu then you need a solution for the speedo as the FD uses an electric speedo and the FC uses a cable speedo. With the stock ECU you will need the FD electric speed sensor. Basically stand alone is the way to go, not the only way, but saves headaches. A whole lot of wiring (body harness to ecu stuff mostly), an FSM with wiring diagrams for both the year chassis it's going into and the year of engine you are putting in. Obviously turbo driveline would be so strongly advised I would say needed. The FD harness is too short to reach the FC ECU location, you need to use the FD igniter and a connector for it, the MAP and connector, or aftermarket solutions, an FD longblock with a GOOD harness, depending on engine condition a boat load of OEM gaskets, tubes, etc (search FD maintenece, it's over a grand at good pricing for complete Gaskets and wear items)
The list goes on and on. With wheel barrows of money, expert skills, or a medium between, the swap is possible. Technically not too difficult either. BUT it requires so many smaller tasks combined as to become quite the pain. Couple that with paying for and or locating the parts and you have a recipe for (as posted elsewhere) a swap that could be mirrored in results with a 20B or cosmo 2 rotor. Your post mentions locating the engine trans, and so on, however you also need several connectors and parts off the body/harness (or an aftermarket alternative) You can use any front cover you want but the pulleys, water pump, CAS (crank angle sensor), etc. must match. Then you must deal with using the proper ECU or tune for the CAS. Other issues are oil cooler lines, fuel pump, radiator, on and on.
Special situations and circumstances excluded the only real advantage here would be if you did it just right with almost all stock parts it could pass California (or a similarly strict states) smog certification where as a 3 rotor or cosmo 2 rotor could not. Well, hope that something here was helpful, if not redundant to the other posters or previously archived posts.
The list goes on and on. With wheel barrows of money, expert skills, or a medium between, the swap is possible. Technically not too difficult either. BUT it requires so many smaller tasks combined as to become quite the pain. Couple that with paying for and or locating the parts and you have a recipe for (as posted elsewhere) a swap that could be mirrored in results with a 20B or cosmo 2 rotor. Your post mentions locating the engine trans, and so on, however you also need several connectors and parts off the body/harness (or an aftermarket alternative) You can use any front cover you want but the pulleys, water pump, CAS (crank angle sensor), etc. must match. Then you must deal with using the proper ECU or tune for the CAS. Other issues are oil cooler lines, fuel pump, radiator, on and on.
Special situations and circumstances excluded the only real advantage here would be if you did it just right with almost all stock parts it could pass California (or a similarly strict states) smog certification where as a 3 rotor or cosmo 2 rotor could not. Well, hope that something here was helpful, if not redundant to the other posters or previously archived posts.
Last edited by kyo787; 03-11-10 at 12:10 AM. Reason: OOps.
03-12-10, 06:41 AM
#18
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So everyone else covered this well, and it's covered elsewhere with the search function. But, to answer the question in the interest of helpfulness... The mounts are different enough as to make custom work necessary. Either custom mounts (most agree not the best solution as it loads the mounts wrong) or subframe modification (if you can fabricate and measure, not too bad, otherwise, a problem) There are piping issues with intercooler, oil cooler, radiator, and exhaust etc. Again, a little custom work. If you use stock turbos, you need the right flange for the elbow, i'm not sur about smog laws out there but I hear it's not a problem, but if you feel the need to use stock parts for cost or whatever else.. If you use the stock ecu then you need a solution for the speedo as the FD uses an electric speedo and the FC uses a cable speedo. With the stock ECU you will need the FD electric speed sensor. Basically stand alone is the way to go, not the only way, but saves headaches. A whole lot of wiring (body harness to ecu stuff mostly), an FSM with wiring diagrams for both the year chassis it's going into and the year of engine you are putting in. Obviously turbo driveline would be so strongly advised I would say needed. The FD harness is too short to reach the FC ECU location, you need to use the FD igniter and a connector for it, the MAP and connector, or aftermarket solutions, an FD longblock with a GOOD harness, depending on engine condition a boat load of OEM gaskets, tubes, etc (search FD maintenece, it's over a grand at good pricing for complete Gaskets and wear items)
The list goes on and on. With wheel barrows of money, expert skills, or a medium between, the swap is possible. Technically not too difficult either. BUT it requires so many smaller tasks combined as to become quite the pain. Couple that with paying for and or locating the parts and you have a recipe for (as posted elsewhere) a swap that could be mirrored in results with a 20B or cosmo 2 rotor. Your post mentions locating the engine trans, and so on, however you also need several connectors and parts off the body/harness (or an aftermarket alternative) You can use any front cover you want but the pulleys, water pump, CAS (crank angle sensor), etc. must match. Then you must deal with using the proper ECU or tune for the CAS. Other issues are oil cooler lines, fuel pump, radiator, on and on.
Special situations and circumstances excluded the only real advantage here would be if you did it just right with almost all stock parts it could pass California (or a similarly strict states) smog certification where as a 3 rotor or cosmo 2 rotor could not. Well, hope that something here was helpful, if not redundant to the other posters or previously archived posts.
The list goes on and on. With wheel barrows of money, expert skills, or a medium between, the swap is possible. Technically not too difficult either. BUT it requires so many smaller tasks combined as to become quite the pain. Couple that with paying for and or locating the parts and you have a recipe for (as posted elsewhere) a swap that could be mirrored in results with a 20B or cosmo 2 rotor. Your post mentions locating the engine trans, and so on, however you also need several connectors and parts off the body/harness (or an aftermarket alternative) You can use any front cover you want but the pulleys, water pump, CAS (crank angle sensor), etc. must match. Then you must deal with using the proper ECU or tune for the CAS. Other issues are oil cooler lines, fuel pump, radiator, on and on.
Special situations and circumstances excluded the only real advantage here would be if you did it just right with almost all stock parts it could pass California (or a similarly strict states) smog certification where as a 3 rotor or cosmo 2 rotor could not. Well, hope that something here was helpful, if not redundant to the other posters or previously archived posts.
i soon learned after this that the FAQ had everything i needed to know ( no thanks to anyone for suggesting that... )
i had my reasons for the rew motor and expected the mounts to be the same, but have since managed to locate a good deal on a freshly rebuilt S4 motor and i am going to try and fit FD power steering and alternater and crank pulley and oil filter pedestall and inlet plenum.
ill let anyone who wants to know how i get on
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