mario1386

oh thanks man,,

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

still no info on where to purchase a regulator?ive had no luck finding one

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

ok i was messing with the alternator again today...it dosent charge at all now...but i check the s terminal while running and it has 12v, the L terminal however does NOT it has around 8v..i jumped 12v to the L terminal while running with no effect tho so i guess it dosent matter...

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

alright so i got my alternator rebuilt and the shop said my voltage regulator was out...they put a new one in and i reinstalled the alt on my car...it lasted about a day and did the same thing!!!! What could be cause my voltage regulators to fry??? do i not my my battery relocation done right? all i did for it was ground the stock negative, splice 2 gauge welding wire into the stock two positive wires under the hood and run that back to my battery then run a new negative down to the body...am i missing something here or what?? could my gilmer drive be messing them up??
somebody help me so i dont burn another one up..i have a warranty on the regulator i just dont wanna do it again..

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

should all the idiot lights ight up when the key is on but the engine off, or just a few?

satch

iTrader: (1)

All of them except maybe the brake light.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

ok all of mine dont come on just like the abs, check engine and a few others...

satch

iTrader: (1)

Likely just cold/poor solder connections related to the idiot light unit although grounding the Yellow/Blue wire at the alternator warning light relay circuit board in the CPU would force whatever warning lights which work to light up. Key to on.

EDIT:

Y/L is the wire on the S4 version but not sure if it is the same for the S5 as that would have to be looked up.

In quickly looking at the S5 manual it appears the W/B wire from the alternator goes directly to the idiot warning light unit. Also, the ABS, seat belt and engine chk light are independent of which lights come on w/key to on. Disconnecting the W/B wire from the back of the alternator and grounding it w/key to on would make the lights turn on.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

ok soo, what else do i need to track down so i dont burn another regulator up?? better ground??

gkarmadi

iTrader: (20)

r u running tmic?? just make sure the B+ isnt touching tmic or any kind of ss hose.
I had fitment issue with fd alt with tmic.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

nope running fmic...think its just bad luck with these cheap *** regulators?? this alt was the cheapest of the cheapest...

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

update: i cleaned some grounds up...both the s and l terminal have 14 volts with the car running..i verified this by back probing them...with the key ON and engine off the l terminal has 6.5 volts...would this be a contributor to my problems??