I'm thinking about doing the fd alternator upgrade for my s4 t2. I don't have the plug for the alternator, nor the alternator yet. Will normal blade connectors fit on the stock fd alternator like it does on my s4 one?

I looked at a few of the ford Taurus alternator threads and modifying the alternator mounting seemed like a bit of a hassel for me.

 

yes, you can use regular female spade connectors

if you need advice PM me, i JUST went through putting one on my 88 GXL

 

Awesome! So u did some research. Please bare with me, electrical is not my strongest subject.
So I read the fd alternator requires a constant 12v vs the s4 12v with ignition switched on? Where would be the best place to tap? I read somewhere the 30a egi fuse? What's the difference between the 30 and 40 amp egi fuses I see on that fuse block?

What gauge wire did you go with since the charging amps would be higher?

 

i actually used all stock s4 wiring. the white wire on the original harness has 12v with key on, so that way you don't have a draw. you HAVE to cut and extend the stock wires from the plug as they are to short.

goto the FAQ and using the wiring diagram thats posted, thats what i used to wire mine, havent had a single issue

also, search for the thread i made, theres little tidbits of info there too

if you have more questions i'll answer when i can, omw into work right now

 

I read on old posts that a few people were having parasitic draw from hooking it up normally, so it needs to be rewired

 

that was giving it constant 12V, which makes sense. Thats why i hooked it up to a switched 12V (stock wire off the ignition) my car has sit for a week and fired right up, and i get 13 volts on the stock amp gauge with lights on and hvac fan on full blast

 

Read this thread, https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/s4-s6-alternator-newly-simplified-demystified-376440/

Have you tried checking parasitic draw with a volt meter, or used a small light bulb in line with the ground?

 

nope, can't say i have, but how can it have a draw when there isn't 12V going to it?

 

They explained it in that post

 

i must've missed the explain

 

I was busy at work earlier, but here is what it says ,"Wiring an s5 or s6 alternator up in the s4 fashion (simply trim the old connector off and adapt it) will create an electrical draw. The problem with the way the alternator was wired stock is that the FD alternator expects to see 12V+ with the ignition off, but it actually sees 0V (ign.switched +12v on a s4), Because the output terminal (B) is connected, but the regulator sensed 0V, it will actually try and charge with the battery off, causing a current drain, and potentially fry the regulator."

And at the bottom of the first post is the breakdown of the s4, s5, and s6 alternators. I've seen that diagram in multiple posts when researching the s6 alternator in the s4.

Do you think you can do a parasitic draw test on your battery? If you don't have a volt meter, a basic light bulb in line with the negative terminal should work

 

I do have a voltmeter, I'm super busy today CLEANING (caps means hardcore) my house today, and moving my daughter into her new room I finally finished, but I can try and make it out there when I go out for a smoke

how do I check for the draw exactly? Never done it before

 

make sure your key is out of ignition
You go to the amperage seeing on your volt meter
remove the negative battery cable
put one prove on battery negative terminal and the other on the ground cable.

Another good way if you aren't sure if your amp reading is any good or if the bolt meter is questionable is to take a little light bulb and have one end on the negative battery post and the other with battery cable. If the bulb lights up then there is a draw

 

should i do milliamps or think theres gonna be a stronger draw?