fd alternator plug
#1
fd alternator plug
I'm thinking about doing the fd alternator upgrade for my s4 t2. I don't have the plug for the alternator, nor the alternator yet. Will normal blade connectors fit on the stock fd alternator like it does on my s4 one?
I looked at a few of the ford Taurus alternator threads and modifying the alternator mounting seemed like a bit of a hassel for me.
I looked at a few of the ford Taurus alternator threads and modifying the alternator mounting seemed like a bit of a hassel for me.
#3
So I read the fd alternator requires a constant 12v vs the s4 12v with ignition switched on? Where would be the best place to tap? I read somewhere the 30a egi fuse? What's the difference between the 30 and 40 amp egi fuses I see on that fuse block?
What gauge wire did you go with since the charging amps would be higher?
#4
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
fd alternator plug
i actually used all stock s4 wiring. the white wire on the original harness has 12v with key on, so that way you don't have a draw. you HAVE to cut and extend the stock wires from the plug as they are to short.
goto the FAQ and using the wiring diagram thats posted, thats what i used to wire mine, havent had a single issue
also, search for the thread i made, theres little tidbits of info there too
if you have more questions i'll answer when i can, omw into work right now
goto the FAQ and using the wiring diagram thats posted, thats what i used to wire mine, havent had a single issue
also, search for the thread i made, theres little tidbits of info there too
if you have more questions i'll answer when i can, omw into work right now
#6
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
fd alternator plug
that was giving it constant 12V, which makes sense. Thats why i hooked it up to a switched 12V (stock wire off the ignition) my car has sit for a week and fired right up, and i get 13 volts on the stock amp gauge with lights on and hvac fan on full blast
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#11
I was busy at work earlier, but here is what it says ,"Wiring an s5 or s6 alternator up in the s4 fashion (simply trim the old connector off and adapt it) will create an electrical draw. The problem with the way the alternator was wired stock is that the FD alternator expects to see 12V+ with the ignition off, but it actually sees 0V (ign.switched +12v on a s4), Because the output terminal (B) is connected, but the regulator sensed 0V, it will actually try and charge with the battery off, causing a current drain, and potentially fry the regulator."
And at the bottom of the first post is the breakdown of the s4, s5, and s6 alternators. I've seen that diagram in multiple posts when researching the s6 alternator in the s4.
Do you think you can do a parasitic draw test on your battery? If you don't have a volt meter, a basic light bulb in line with the negative terminal should work
And at the bottom of the first post is the breakdown of the s4, s5, and s6 alternators. I've seen that diagram in multiple posts when researching the s6 alternator in the s4.
Do you think you can do a parasitic draw test on your battery? If you don't have a volt meter, a basic light bulb in line with the negative terminal should work
#12
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
I do have a voltmeter, I'm super busy today CLEANING (caps means hardcore) my house today, and moving my daughter into her new room I finally finished, but I can try and make it out there when I go out for a smoke
how do I check for the draw exactly? Never done it before
how do I check for the draw exactly? Never done it before
#13
You go to the amperage seeing on your volt meter
remove the negative battery cable
put one prove on battery negative terminal and the other on the ground cable.
Another good way if you aren't sure if your amp reading is any good or if the bolt meter is questionable is to take a little light bulb and have one end on the negative battery post and the other with battery cable. If the bulb lights up then there is a draw
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