FD alternator conversion and FD alt questions...
10-09-03, 07:08 PM
#26
Originally posted by Aaron Cake
Well, for one, it starts the alternator off.
Lights off the main cat (if equipped) a lot faster. Makes the car easier to drive when it's cold, etc.
Also keeps dumb newbies from flooring the pedal when the car is still cold...
I don't have a problem with the thermowax per say, but I do have a big problem with people just taking random stuff of their car because they are uninformed on it's function, don't understand the consequences, and somehow believe it will give them power. Like wiring the ports, removing emissions, removing charcoal canister, PCV valve, etc. etc.
Really, there is absolutely no good reason to remove the thermowax unless it is broken.
Well, for one, it starts the alternator off.
Lights off the main cat (if equipped) a lot faster. Makes the car easier to drive when it's cold, etc. Also keeps dumb newbies from flooring the pedal when the car is still cold...
I don't have a problem with the thermowax per say, but I do have a big problem with people just taking random stuff of their car because they are uninformed on it's function, don't understand the consequences, and somehow believe it will give them power. Like wiring the ports, removing emissions, removing charcoal canister, PCV valve, etc. etc.
Really, there is absolutely no good reason to remove the thermowax unless it is broken.
I have no cats to warm up and I always give my FC 5 min to warm up before I take off so I don't hurt it.
I NEVER have seen or heard of ANY alternator doing this NORMALLY. If I start my car with an FC alt it will charge like normal. So will MAX-IMAL's car since I work on his car too.
Maybe canadian alternators are different but I don't see why the FD alternator has to be reved to 2k unless Jarret's theory is correct which I stongly beleive IS. My car also never reved to 2k on start up it only would do the 3k start up when it was cold. My car idles at 1500 when it is cold yes but the alternator doesn't charge for **** UNTIL I REV TO OR PAST 2k. Even if I let the car sit there for 30 minutes I don't think it would charge unless I rev it up.
10-09-03, 07:14 PM
#27
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
I dont have the cold start assist or BAC but the thermowax is still on there. But my car never goes to 3k at start up.
I dont have the cold start assist or BAC but the thermowax is still on there. But my car never goes to 3k at start up.
Hey stop right there - The Bypass air control valves function is to let more air in when you have electrical load, no? I don't understand people ditching their BAC!!
I NEVER have seen or heard of ANY alternator doing this NORMALLY. If I start my car with an FC alt it will charge like normal. So will MAX-IMAL's car since I work on his car too.
Get used to it.
Maybe canadian alternators are different
10-09-03, 07:18 PM
#28
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
BTW has hIGGI confirmed that it IS smaller than stock?
BTW has hIGGI confirmed that it IS smaller than stock?
I know about shapes. Learned it in school.
10-09-03, 07:20 PM
#29
Originally posted by Black13B
Hey stop right there - The Bypass air control valves function is to let more air in when you have electrical load, no? I don't understand people ditching their BAC!!
[/b]
Get used to it.
Tony is from Canada, so he is sending you a Canadian Alternator. [/B]
Hey stop right there - The Bypass air control valves function is to let more air in when you have electrical load, no? I don't understand people ditching their BAC!!
[/b]
Get used to it.
Tony is from Canada, so he is sending you a Canadian Alternator. [/B]
I have no accesories. The only thing that changes idle a BIT is the rear defroster and that corrects itself in 2 seconds. The BAC is worthless once you have no accesories. I know tony is sending me a canadian alt but my US alts(probably made in canada too
) never have done that nor max's. I am meeting up with MAX to see if his car does it too. If it does then I will be satisfied and have it checked again to be SURE about it.
10-09-03, 07:23 PM
#30
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Well if your car is so modded and you don't need this and don't need that, why aren't you prepared to make to make the huge sacrifice such as a throttle blip when you start the car?
Get used to it. It's fine.
Your making a mountain out of a molehill, especially for someone who doesn't even run a BACV.
Get used to it. It's fine.
Your making a mountain out of a molehill, especially for someone who doesn't even run a BACV.
10-09-03, 07:27 PM
#31
Ok so everyone with an FD alt in their FC's has to blip the throttle eh? MAX has just about the same mods as I do and he doesn't need to do that crap.
And it is a mountain for me since it is my car. I don't want to be stranded on the side of the road because the alt was OK but then died.
And it is a mountain for me since it is my car. I don't want to be stranded on the side of the road because the alt was OK but then died.
10-09-03, 07:29 PM
#32
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
Well, for one, it starts the alternator off. Lights off the main cat (if equipped) a lot faster. Makes the car easier to drive when it's cold, etc.
Also keeps dumb newbies from flooring the pedal when the car is still cold...
I don't have a problem with the thermowax per say, but I do have a big problem with people just taking random stuff of their car because they are uninformed on it's function, don't understand the consequences, and somehow believe it will give them power. Like wiring the ports, removing emissions, removing charcoal canister, PCV valve, etc. etc.
Really, there is absolutely no good reason to remove the thermowax unless it is broken.
Well, for one, it starts the alternator off.
Lights off the main cat (if equipped) a lot faster. Makes the car easier to drive when it's cold, etc. Also keeps dumb newbies from flooring the pedal when the car is still cold...
I don't have a problem with the thermowax per say, but I do have a big problem with people just taking random stuff of their car because they are uninformed on it's function, don't understand the consequences, and somehow believe it will give them power. Like wiring the ports, removing emissions, removing charcoal canister, PCV valve, etc. etc.
Really, there is absolutely no good reason to remove the thermowax unless it is broken.
Last edited by SonicRaT; 10-09-03 at 07:31 PM.
10-09-03, 07:35 PM
#33
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
(And that's with the stock cd player thumping away to canon in d)
(And that's with the stock cd player thumping away to canon in d)
Last edited by Black13B; 10-09-03 at 07:38 PM.
10-09-03, 07:37 PM
#34
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
Ok so everyone with an FD alt in their FC's has to blip the throttle eh? MAX has just about the same mods as I do and he doesn't need to do that crap.
And it is a mountain for me since it is my car. I don't want to be stranded on the side of the road because the alt was OK but then died.
Ok so everyone with an FD alt in their FC's has to blip the throttle eh? MAX has just about the same mods as I do and he doesn't need to do that crap.
And it is a mountain for me since it is my car. I don't want to be stranded on the side of the road because the alt was OK but then died.
Carefully.
10-09-03, 07:38 PM
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Originally posted by Black13B
= BACV Function
= BACV Function
10-09-03, 07:58 PM
#38
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Originally posted by J-Rat
Wow, this thread is all over the place!
Santiago, did you take the alternator to be tested? Thats the only way to be sure its functioning. All this arguing is useless unless you have proof of a malfunctioning alternator.
Jarrett
Wow, this thread is all over the place!
Santiago, did you take the alternator to be tested? Thats the only way to be sure its functioning. All this arguing is useless unless you have proof of a malfunctioning alternator.
Jarrett
10-09-03, 08:34 PM
#39
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
MY car idles at 750-800 rpms with or without my stuff on. The BAC is worthless like I said.
MY car idles at 750-800 rpms with or without my stuff on. The BAC is worthless like I said.
10-09-03, 08:37 PM
#40
I DON"T have any of the accesories don't you get it? the BAC is mainly for the A/c system when it kicks on it will lower the idle and the BAC corrects. I never even bothered with my A/c.
I have no USE for it so I don't think I want to keep it. I re-routed the coolant line and blocked the hole off with my patented steel block off plate
I still refuse to beleive that what I am dealing with is NORMAL. I hope wankel7 gets back here next week if I still have the alt on there so I can show you all and you all can stop being fools and not reading what I say. Jarret had the same problem so it isn't like I am lying or something.
I have no USE for it so I don't think I want to keep it. I re-routed the coolant line and blocked the hole off with my patented steel block off plate
I still refuse to beleive that what I am dealing with is NORMAL. I hope wankel7 gets back here next week if I still have the alt on there so I can show you all and you all can stop being fools and not reading what I say. Jarret had the same problem so it isn't like I am lying or something.
10-09-03, 08:47 PM
#41
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
I hope wankel7 gets back here next week if I still have the alt on there so I can show you all and you all can stop being fools and not reading what I say.
I hope wankel7 gets back here next week if I still have the alt on there so I can show you all and you all can stop being fools and not reading what I say.
Ironic you say all that, when you ask for opinions and ideas, and we give them to you, and you won't accept any more information. You said it yourself. You refuse to believe.
10-09-03, 08:51 PM
#42
Well I refuse to accept that it is a NORMAL thing to have to blip your throttle for your volts to go up vecause NONE of the cars I have driven american, jap, or other have had this issue. I will accept logical and technical info but your just saying DEAL WITH IT. That is no answer. That is not even helping. I wanted info on the alternator and whether or not anyone other than Jarret and myself have had this problem.
10-09-03, 08:54 PM
#43
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Regarding BAC: Obviously people don't know what the BAC is for. The BAC is to compensate for ANY load placed on the engine to try and maintan a steady idle. With no accessories (save for an alternator) you really don't need it, but there's no reason to lose it either.
Regarding AWS: The AWS solenoid valve has one purpose in life: to open when the cold start switch at the bottom of the radiator tells it the engine is stone cold. It does not effect anything once the engine has warmed up.
Regarding Alternators: In my (considerable...over the past 4.5 years anyway) experience, all FC alternators I have seen behave this way. I can only logically deduce that FD alternators do it as well. This is just my educated guess. I have not done extensive alternator testing to prove this. Based on my electrical knowledge, it makes perfect sense.
Regarding flames: Chill out everyone. The first thread was locked, and I don't have much hope for this one if things continue.
Regarding AWS: The AWS solenoid valve has one purpose in life: to open when the cold start switch at the bottom of the radiator tells it the engine is stone cold. It does not effect anything once the engine has warmed up.
Regarding Alternators: In my (considerable...over the past 4.5 years anyway) experience, all FC alternators I have seen behave this way. I can only logically deduce that FD alternators do it as well. This is just my educated guess. I have not done extensive alternator testing to prove this. Based on my electrical knowledge, it makes perfect sense.
Regarding flames: Chill out everyone. The first thread was locked, and I don't have much hope for this one if things continue.
10-09-03, 09:00 PM
#44
Aaron so even with an Fc alternator you have to blimp the throttle for it to charge? Because mine and all other FC alternators that I have seen here in our city DO NOT need a throttle blip to charge 14v+.
Just say YES or NO. I don't need to hear READ THE OTHER THREAD "carefully" or DEAL WITH IT.
And if this is true that ALL RX-7 alternators need a throttle blip before charging why haven't I ever heard about it? I am on here enough for me to notice some boob asking about it.
Just say YES or NO. I don't need to hear READ THE OTHER THREAD "carefully" or DEAL WITH IT.
And if this is true that ALL RX-7 alternators need a throttle blip before charging why haven't I ever heard about it? I am on here enough for me to notice some boob asking about it.
10-09-03, 09:02 PM
#46
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That and the 4 fc's I work on/many alternators i've used, and many other fc's i've riden in never had to have such a thing (all of which the AWS did not exist, just crank it up and wham, 750 idle @ 14volts)
10-09-03, 09:04 PM
#47
Yes Jarret the only reason I didn't test my alt is because the guy told me their machine was broked or something. I think he was just lazy and tire of dealing with customers. I did have the battery checked though. It is fine. (I still want an optima!!!)
(I still want an optima!!!)
10-09-03, 09:07 PM
#48
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According to powermaster, all alternators have an rpm at which they must initially be revved to in order for them to be activated.
So, with a smaller pulley, this is more than likely.
So, with a smaller pulley, this is more than likely.
10-09-03, 09:09 PM
#49
I think it would be a larger pully like the one that the FC uses that would cause it to spin slower meaning lower RPMs and hence the switch doesn't get activated.
If the test is good then I will ask hIGGI to make me one of his Rotor shaped pullys modified for the FD alt
If the test is good then I will ask hIGGI to make me one of his Rotor shaped pullys modified for the FD alt
10-09-03, 10:21 PM
#50
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
I think it would be a larger pully like the one that the FC uses that would cause it to spin slower meaning lower RPMs and hence the switch doesn't get activated.
If the test is good then I will ask hIGGI to make me one of his Rotor shaped pullys modified for the FD alt
I think it would be a larger pully like the one that the FC uses that would cause it to spin slower meaning lower RPMs and hence the switch doesn't get activated.
If the test is good then I will ask hIGGI to make me one of his Rotor shaped pullys modified for the FD alt