I dont have the cold start assist or BAC but the thermowax is still on there. But my car never goes to 3k at start up.

I have no cats to warm up and I always give my FC 5 min to warm up before I take off so I don't hurt it.

I NEVER have seen or heard of ANY alternator doing this NORMALLY. If I start my car with an FC alt it will charge like normal. So will MAX-IMAL's car since I work on his car too.

Maybe canadian alternators are different but I don't see why the FD alternator has to be reved to 2k unless Jarret's theory is correct which I stongly beleive IS. My car also never reved to 2k on start up it only would do the 3k start up when it was cold. My car idles at 1500 when it is cold yes but the alternator doesn't charge for **** UNTIL I REV TO OR PAST 2k. Even if I let the car sit there for 30 minutes I don't think it would charge unless I rev it up.

 

Hey stop right there - The Bypass air control valves function is to let more air in when you have electrical load, no? I don't understand people ditching their BAC!!



Get used to it.

Tony is from Canada, so he is sending you a Canadian Alternator.

 

Uhh.. Gee I don't know.. My eyes must be lying to me when I LOOK and SEE that they are DIFFERENT SIZES.

I know about shapes. Learned it in school.

 

I don't need the BAC. I have no accesories. The only thing that changes idle a BIT is the rear defroster and that corrects itself in 2 seconds. The BAC is worthless once you have no accesories.

I know tony is sending me a canadian alt but my US alts(probably made in canada too ) never have done that nor max's. I am meeting up with MAX to see if his car does it too. If it does then I will be satisfied and have it checked again to be SURE about it.

 

Well if your car is so modded and you don't need this and don't need that, why aren't you prepared to make to make the huge sacrifice such as a throttle blip when you start the car?

Get used to it. It's fine.

Your making a mountain out of a molehill, especially for someone who doesn't even run a BACV.

 

Ok so everyone with an FD alt in their FC's has to blip the throttle eh? MAX has just about the same mods as I do and he doesn't need to do that crap.

And it is a mountain for me since it is my car. I don't want to be stranded on the side of the road because the alt was OK but then died.

 

Simple, the less to go wrong, the less that *WILL* go wrong. And btw, no BAC, no ACV, no emissions, no thermowax, notta, just a 500rpm idle, and 14volt at idle without your 'normal' throttle blip, oh, btw, that's on 4 different alt's. Guess I've got the worse luck? (And that's with the stock cd player thumping away to canon in d)

 

= BACV Function

 

Re-read both threads.

Carefully.

 

Not quite sure what that's supposed to mean. But I'd need a BACV for it to function, wouldn't I? But yet I can still maintain a solid idle (500rpm cuz I'm too lazy to adjust it higher) and hold 14volts with my cdplayer going, right after startup without 'blipping' the throttle.

 

MY car idles at 750-800 rpms with or without my stuff on. The BAC is worthless like I said.

 

Wow, this thread is all over the place!

Santiago, did you take the alternator to be tested? Thats the only way to be sure its functioning. All this arguing is useless unless you have proof of a malfunctioning alternator.

Jarrett

 

Gives us something to do. *cough*youowememoneyyouassrat*cough* So, how's it going jrat?

 

So, they just put it on for fun then?

 

I DON"T have any of the accesories don't you get it? the BAC is mainly for the A/c system when it kicks on it will lower the idle and the BAC corrects. I never even bothered with my A/c.

I have no USE for it so I don't think I want to keep it. I re-routed the coolant line and blocked the hole off with my patented steel block off plate

I still refuse to beleive that what I am dealing with is NORMAL. I hope wankel7 gets back here next week if I still have the alt on there so I can show you all and you all can stop being fools and not reading what I say. Jarret had the same problem so it isn't like I am lying or something.

 

More Flames! Neat!

Ironic you say all that, when you ask for opinions and ideas, and we give them to you, and you won't accept any more information. You said it yourself. You refuse to believe.

 

Well I refuse to accept that it is a NORMAL thing to have to blip your throttle for your volts to go up vecause NONE of the cars I have driven american, jap, or other have had this issue. I will accept logical and technical info but your just saying DEAL WITH IT. That is no answer. That is not even helping. I wanted info on the alternator and whether or not anyone other than Jarret and myself have had this problem.

 

Regarding BAC: Obviously people don't know what the BAC is for. The BAC is to compensate for ANY load placed on the engine to try and maintan a steady idle. With no accessories (save for an alternator) you really don't need it, but there's no reason to lose it either.

Regarding AWS: The AWS solenoid valve has one purpose in life: to open when the cold start switch at the bottom of the radiator tells it the engine is stone cold. It does not effect anything once the engine has warmed up.

Regarding Alternators: In my (considerable...over the past 4.5 years anyway) experience, all FC alternators I have seen behave this way. I can only logically deduce that FD alternators do it as well. This is just my educated guess. I have not done extensive alternator testing to prove this. Based on my electrical knowledge, it makes perfect sense.

Regarding flames: Chill out everyone. The first thread was locked, and I don't have much hope for this one if things continue.

 

Aaron so even with an Fc alternator you have to blimp the throttle for it to charge? Because mine and all other FC alternators that I have seen here in our city DO NOT need a throttle blip to charge 14v+.

Just say YES or NO. I don't need to hear READ THE OTHER THREAD "carefully" or DEAL WITH IT.

And if this is true that ALL RX-7 alternators need a throttle blip before charging why haven't I ever heard about it? I am on here enough for me to notice some boob asking about it.

 

Regarding Santiago's Alternator: Get it tested! The test tells all!!!

And Santiago, I dont think my alternator was faulty, I think it was normal operations.

Jarrett

 

That and the 4 fc's I work on/many alternators i've used, and many other fc's i've riden in never had to have such a thing (all of which the AWS did not exist, just crank it up and wham, 750 idle @ 14volts)

 

Yes Jarret the only reason I didn't test my alt is because the guy told me their machine was broked or something. I think he was just lazy and tire of dealing with customers. I did have the battery checked though. It is fine. (I still want an optima!!!)

 

According to powermaster, all alternators have an rpm at which they must initially be revved to in order for them to be activated.

So, with a smaller pulley, this is more than likely.

 

I think it would be a larger pully like the one that the FC uses that would cause it to spin slower meaning lower RPMs and hence the switch doesn't get activated.

If the test is good then I will ask hIGGI to make me one of his Rotor shaped pullys modified for the FD alt

 

Exactly what was stated in the 1st thread..