Fcd, Series Five
11-15-02, 01:17 PM
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HAILERS
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Fcd, Series Five
Whats the difference b/t the series five and series four FCD'S???? Anybody got a jpg of the series five wiring schematic that shows the pressure/boost sensor? Can you post it? Or tell us whether the wiring is the same as on a series four? As in BW, B, BrW, BrR??????Is the plug a different shape on the pressure/boost sensor???
11-15-02, 03:02 PM
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Scott,
Do you have a pic of your boost sensor connector? I looked through your website real quick and didn't happen to see one. I'd like to compare your S5 wire colors with the S4 colors. Thanks......
Jim
Do you have a pic of your boost sensor connector? I looked through your website real quick and didn't happen to see one. I'd like to compare your S5 wire colors with the S4 colors. Thanks......
Jim
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11-18-02, 09:48 AM
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Originally posted by Scott 89t2
---^-------
* BR/B
G/Y BR/W
not sure what the * is?? I guess it only uses 3?
---^-------
* BR/B
G/Y BR/W
not sure what the * is?? I guess it only uses 3?
11-18-02, 10:34 AM
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BrB is probably ground. BrW is probably the 5v ref and the G/Y is the output. Identical to the series four except the output wire is BrR on a series four and the series five does not have the 12v input the series four has. Thats the place where the * is.
I think there was/is a cavet that goes with the online manual at fc3s, that states he did not have time/inclination to do the wiring diagrams. Still very thankful for having the rest of the manual, even though I don't own a series five. So thanks for the online manual and the info above.
I think there was/is a cavet that goes with the online manual at fc3s, that states he did not have time/inclination to do the wiring diagrams. Still very thankful for having the rest of the manual, even though I don't own a series five. So thanks for the online manual and the info above.
11-18-02, 11:46 AM
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Originally posted by HAILERS
BrB is probably ground. BrW is probably the 5v ref and the G/Y is the output. Identical to the series four except the output wire is BrR on a series four and the series five does not have the 12v input the series four has. Thats the place where the * is.
BrB is probably ground. BrW is probably the 5v ref and the G/Y is the output. Identical to the series four except the output wire is BrR on a series four and the series five does not have the 12v input the series four has. Thats the place where the * is.
11-18-02, 12:34 PM
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I'm just guessing(covering my butt), but I'd say that it appears the that you could just find a source of 12v and string the wire to the DIY FCD and use that. The other three signals *SEEM* to be the same as on a series four. The only way to find out is to find a series five and see is the brown/white is indeed five volts, the black/brown is indeed a simple ground and the G/Y is the same as the brown/red on a series four. You'd have to make darn sure that no 12v went to the sensor though. Just to power the IC. Makes sense to me. Maybe I need to take a closer look, but it seems that way to me of the top of my hat. Disclaimer time: I will not now, or ever be responsible for anything you or anybody else destroys from reading anything I wrote or implied. See my lawyer Herb Goldstein for any law suits to be filed against me. You will be counter sued! humor, please.
11-18-02, 01:22 PM
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I'll have to get under the hood of my friends S5 TII with a meter and start checking wires. I don't recall him having any external power source on his RB FCD (for the IC).
Nice disclaimer.......
Nice disclaimer.......
11-18-02, 04:34 PM
#15
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First off, if you have an aftermarket-made FCD, you MUST get the right one for the car. If you plug the wrong FCD into the car, YOU WILL BLOW UP YOUR BOOST SENSOR AND MAYBE YOUR ECU. I've seen it happen.
With the Paul Stoaks FCD, you have to find a switched 12v source to tap into, as it's not supplied to the boost sensor. I don't know why you really need 12v, as it's a 5v circuit, but oh well.
Anyhow, I still believe that, for 90% of the people here, you really should get a pre-made FCD. It's tricky to make Paul's design, the instructions on the web are NOT complete and up to date, and you easily stand a chance of blowing up your boost sensor and ECU. It's not worth it.
I used to have a Stoaks FCD some time ago that an EE friend of mine built. I had from Paul some pages of revisions to the circuit that needs to be taken into consideration (that was MANY years ago, and no I don't have the revisions any more). It took my buddy, who's a qualified EE, a good chunk of time to properly build the circuit, then you still have to tune in the cut-out point.
After a year or so of having the FCD, I had problems with it from having the boost sensor wiring tapped into - the connections went faulty. This was about at the point I got the Fcon with it's own FCD, so it didn't matter.
Trust me, spend the money and get a professionally-made FCD. You'll save yourself a LOT of time, hassle, and future troubleshooting.
Dale
With the Paul Stoaks FCD, you have to find a switched 12v source to tap into, as it's not supplied to the boost sensor. I don't know why you really need 12v, as it's a 5v circuit, but oh well.
Anyhow, I still believe that, for 90% of the people here, you really should get a pre-made FCD. It's tricky to make Paul's design, the instructions on the web are NOT complete and up to date, and you easily stand a chance of blowing up your boost sensor and ECU. It's not worth it.
I used to have a Stoaks FCD some time ago that an EE friend of mine built. I had from Paul some pages of revisions to the circuit that needs to be taken into consideration (that was MANY years ago, and no I don't have the revisions any more). It took my buddy, who's a qualified EE, a good chunk of time to properly build the circuit, then you still have to tune in the cut-out point.
After a year or so of having the FCD, I had problems with it from having the boost sensor wiring tapped into - the connections went faulty. This was about at the point I got the Fcon with it's own FCD, so it didn't matter.
Trust me, spend the money and get a professionally-made FCD. You'll save yourself a LOT of time, hassle, and future troubleshooting.
Dale
02-19-03, 12:35 PM
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Originally posted by dcfc3s
First off, if you have an aftermarket-made FCD, you MUST get the right one for the car. If you plug the wrong FCD into the car, YOU WILL BLOW UP YOUR BOOST SENSOR AND MAYBE YOUR ECU. I've seen it happen.
With the Paul Stoaks FCD, you have to find a switched 12v source to tap into, as it's not supplied to the boost sensor. I don't know why you really need 12v, as it's a 5v circuit, but oh well.
Anyhow, I still believe that, for 90% of the people here, you really should get a pre-made FCD. It's tricky to make Paul's design, the instructions on the web are NOT complete and up to date, and you easily stand a chance of blowing up your boost sensor and ECU. It's not worth it.
I used to have a Stoaks FCD some time ago that an EE friend of mine built. I had from Paul some pages of revisions to the circuit that needs to be taken into consideration (that was MANY years ago, and no I don't have the revisions any more). It took my buddy, who's a qualified EE, a good chunk of time to properly build the circuit, then you still have to tune in the cut-out point.
After a year or so of having the FCD, I had problems with it from having the boost sensor wiring tapped into - the connections went faulty. This was about at the point I got the Fcon with it's own FCD, so it didn't matter.
Trust me, spend the money and get a professionally-made FCD. You'll save yourself a LOT of time, hassle, and future troubleshooting.
Dale
First off, if you have an aftermarket-made FCD, you MUST get the right one for the car. If you plug the wrong FCD into the car, YOU WILL BLOW UP YOUR BOOST SENSOR AND MAYBE YOUR ECU. I've seen it happen.
With the Paul Stoaks FCD, you have to find a switched 12v source to tap into, as it's not supplied to the boost sensor. I don't know why you really need 12v, as it's a 5v circuit, but oh well.
Anyhow, I still believe that, for 90% of the people here, you really should get a pre-made FCD. It's tricky to make Paul's design, the instructions on the web are NOT complete and up to date, and you easily stand a chance of blowing up your boost sensor and ECU. It's not worth it.
I used to have a Stoaks FCD some time ago that an EE friend of mine built. I had from Paul some pages of revisions to the circuit that needs to be taken into consideration (that was MANY years ago, and no I don't have the revisions any more). It took my buddy, who's a qualified EE, a good chunk of time to properly build the circuit, then you still have to tune in the cut-out point.
After a year or so of having the FCD, I had problems with it from having the boost sensor wiring tapped into - the connections went faulty. This was about at the point I got the Fcon with it's own FCD, so it didn't matter.
Trust me, spend the money and get a professionally-made FCD. You'll save yourself a LOT of time, hassle, and future troubleshooting.
Dale
I talked to Racing Beat about the S5 FCD's and they have no idea.......they get them from Japan and that's all they know.
Anyway, the S5's plug in the exact same way the S4's do, so I don't see how an external 12V power source is gathered from the plug. There has got to be something slightly different with the circuit internally.
I'm gonna buy the S5 and break it open.
02-19-03, 05:15 PM
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there's a diy fcd in there, but I don't trust it as far as I can spit it (I could probably kick it pretty far). I had an EE major build it for me, and he's played with clamping other car sensors as well. Though, it still uses the 12v source. I basically gave him paul's page, told him to make this, and let him do it. Then when I got it, I just ran an external 12v source. Haven't gotten to use it yet though because of my god damned MOP!
