GarageSpec

Alright. I don't ever post here but I'm having some odd issues right now and I need help.

Background:

New rebuild. Streeport, s5 rear iron, microtech running stock coils, big fuel.

Car is a new build. Ran fine here days ago. I got it all buttoned up to drive it for the first time after I trusted it. Heat cycled it several times. Everything was fine. Then I started it once and noticed the voltage was very high. Shut the car off. Car only ran for 40 seconds. Blew no fuses or anything. Replaced alt and battery cables and starter. Now the car won't start. It's flooding badly. Tracked it back to the leading coil having not firing. The coil has 12v at the harness plug going into the coil. To my knowledge the wiring is correct as it just ran.

I'm going to swap the leading coil tomorrow with another one to see if hat rectifies it. But the car hasn't been right. I see nothing burned or smoked. Not seems or smells burnt. I test he continuity (I know this isn't the best) of all the plug wires and the 2 leading ones read nothing, others read 14.7. That's what made me look at the landing coil and nothing.

Also, I am terrible at wiring issues but he car was fine 3 days ago.

Any help would be great.

The microtech has never had any error codes.

One more thing, my coolant temp sensor wiring was every bad I noticed as well. So I will be replacing it as well.

The car is a really good build and tons of good parts. Just trying to make it to be dyno in a couple weeks.

I tested the spark the other day and leading spark was very weak, now I have non at all. I have no touched re wiring to the coils. At all. And as I said the car was fine the other day. I also figured I may have smoked the injector drivers in the microtech, but I pulled the uim and I assumed if he injectors were grounded via the ecu they would have stuck open. They did nothing when I primed the system with key on. So I don't think this is the case.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

stop worrying until you swap the leading coil...

lead spark is weak, because it is waste spark. half the charge time of the trailing= half the spark energy

GarageSpec

Yeah I noticed prior to this all happening. I'm just very frustrated with this car. It has been literally one thing after another to the point where everything is new but the coils and the CAS. Haha. I just have to get some run time and make it okay before the dyno. I don't trust it at all.

I found a coil like 4 miles from me. I don't see the likelihood of 2 being bad. So the swapped one will tell me more I guess.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

we've all been there

only a few extremely lucky jerks managed to do a build that was relatively drama free, skill has little to do with it when you're working with a 30 year old car during a time when quality control on parts sucks big donkey *****.

GarageSpec

A couple of days ago I was one of those Guys haha.

I'm going to check continuity on the ecu. I just find it odd my coil has power but isn't working and neither of the plug wires on that coil have continuity either. So maybe it did smoke the coil and wires.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the coil power is constant, the ground is what the ECU supplies to collapse the field via trigger. 12v at the coils means nothing, in other words.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Green/Yellow wire to the lead coil is the trigger for the coil to fire so you would check this wire. The wire has 0 volts to it and then 5 volts and it does this in a continuous sequence. You have to spin the main pulley by hand via the alternator pulley and w/key to on the G/Y wire will have 0 volts and then for a brief moment it will change to 5 volts and then back to 0 volts.

GarageSpec

I'm aware of the yellow and green wire being the trigger. I just ran the grey wire which is ign signal #1 and the wire was out of the pin on he ecu plug. So obviously the circuit was closed. I've never pinned and ecu. I'm going to carefully inspect the plug and decide what to do. It seems very loose form the connector. Which would explain the vey faint spark I had he other day. I likely moved the ecu to plug in the dongle or something and it came loose completely. I did not wire this car. But it was done well.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

that is the factory test, the factory spec is no more the 16K ohms per meter, which is nice because the FC plug wires are about a meter long. new NGK wires are around 7k ohms, resistance increases as the wires age. more resistance = less spark energy.

by your test, the leading wires are totally bad, and the trailings are borderline, you should replace the wire set.

on a big hp car you want to keep the trailing wires separate from each other and the leading wires.

GarageSpec

i have attempted to get that wire down into the pin on the ecu plug but I'm still get no signal. It's probably a bad connection at the plug. How do I go about getting that pin out of there and repinning?

GarageSpec

This is what I'm going to do. As this stuff needs to be done anyways. I'm replacing wires, and plugs. I'm replacing cts with oem Mazda unit, I'm repinning that ign signal one on the microtech. And I'm going to grab that other coil and send the injectors off for cleaning and stuff. I really hope my microtech didn't get damaged.