FC3S Still a viable Daily Driver?
FC3S Still a viable Daily Driver?
I am from the 3rd-gen section. Lot of FD experience but very little FC.
Most posts I have foound on the subject are from 10 years ago, worth re-asking I think.
Cutting to chase...are FCs, in their current MARKET condition (i.e. the ones you see for sale) still viable for a Daily driver?
I mean, short of spending 8,000 on a clean example.
Something more around $3-4k that has been maintained well enough.
I am looking at NAs--GTU/GXLs. S5 preferably.
I know the 13b reliability basics overall, but I have no clue about FC peripherals--alternator, radiator, A/C, suspension, electronics etc...how do they hold up over 25 years..?
I understand the gas mileage, I am mainly asking about maintenance/reliability issues.
all input appreciated, thank you
Most posts I have foound on the subject are from 10 years ago, worth re-asking I think.
Cutting to chase...are FCs, in their current MARKET condition (i.e. the ones you see for sale) still viable for a Daily driver?
I mean, short of spending 8,000 on a clean example.
Something more around $3-4k that has been maintained well enough.
I am looking at NAs--GTU/GXLs. S5 preferably.
I know the 13b reliability basics overall, but I have no clue about FC peripherals--alternator, radiator, A/C, suspension, electronics etc...how do they hold up over 25 years..?
I understand the gas mileage, I am mainly asking about maintenance/reliability issues.
all input appreciated, thank you
Well the alternator is very common to go out and very weak. Its a good idea to upgrade to an FD alternator. I had to replace my alternator and get all the rust out of my gas tank for my GXL to be daily driveable. Its a viable platform as long as proper maintenance has been performed on time, as you most likely know already.
Aside from the occasional logicon [fan not working], and burning out the headlight switch+harness [PUT A RELAY IN PER ICEMARK'S INSTRUCTIONS!!], the FC is very reliable as a DD.
I've near-as-makes-no-difference DD'ed mine since 2005.
The alternators could be beefier, but they don't fail all the time, radiators last as long as the plastic holds up, the suspension bushings are pretty beefy so they last a long time.
I've near-as-makes-no-difference DD'ed mine since 2005.
The alternators could be beefier, but they don't fail all the time, radiators last as long as the plastic holds up, the suspension bushings are pretty beefy so they last a long time.
If you stay after the maintenance, the simple answer is yes like for any older car. But you won't find the gas mileage one usually looks for in a daily with $4 per gallon prices.
The less they arr messed with the more reliable they arE
My vert used to get almost 20mpg combined when it was basically stock
My current daily driver gets 12, aint that a kick in the ***?
My vert used to get almost 20mpg combined when it was basically stock
My current daily driver gets 12, aint that a kick in the ***?
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
true. that being said the average FC has had a bunch of maintenance things put off, so it'll need a really thorough service, and some soldering.
my last FC was an 89 vert with 160k on the clock, and once i unclogged the thermowax, and resoldered the clock, it was more reliable than my dad's 2003 boxster. the Porsche dealership spent a summer trying to get the starter motor to work when you turn the key...
the FC before that had sat for 12 years, so the tires were square, and the radiator was full of igneous rock, so it needed more going through. i thought the tires were ok, but when i smogged it, the smog guys head almost fell off... BTW it passed smog in CA on 12 year old gas, easily.
my last FC was an 89 vert with 160k on the clock, and once i unclogged the thermowax, and resoldered the clock, it was more reliable than my dad's 2003 boxster. the Porsche dealership spent a summer trying to get the starter motor to work when you turn the key...
the FC before that had sat for 12 years, so the tires were square, and the radiator was full of igneous rock, so it needed more going through. i thought the tires were ok, but when i smogged it, the smog guys head almost fell off... BTW it passed smog in CA on 12 year old gas, easily.
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about as reliable as any other car that is about 25 yrs old..
things ive replaced on multiple fcs
alternators, oil cooler lines, brake masters, clutch masters, clutch slaves, brake calipers, door handles, headlight switchs, wiper switches,driver side heater hose, hoses under intake manifold. s5 plastic thermostat neck, radiators
engines?, the na ones are very reliable on the engine side of things
things ive replaced on multiple fcs
alternators, oil cooler lines, brake masters, clutch masters, clutch slaves, brake calipers, door handles, headlight switchs, wiper switches,driver side heater hose, hoses under intake manifold. s5 plastic thermostat neck, radiators
engines?, the na ones are very reliable on the engine side of things
I dd mine thru the winter and it was a biatch lol. Partially because of me wanting to touch everything. But most likely your going to have to do something to it to become reliable. Like when I first bought this 7 it needed a driveshaft, windows didnt work, doors didnt open, vac lines needed replacing and both front and rear brakes were shot. I'd say shop around there are clean ones still out there.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i've done engines (i buy these broken though), they ALWAYS need transmission mounts. any given car will get either a brake master and or clutch master + slave.
i usually do a thermostat, but mostly because the one in there is unknown. they usually get the in tank fuel filter sock. if its the stock exhaust it usually needs to be rewelded. i resolder the clock, and there are usually some interior plastic bits that need changing, or repair, acrylic cement works great.
i always clean out the window regulators, and regrease em, and anything else that needs it
and a GOOD cleaning, and it needs to go through the tune up page in the FSM, there are adjustments on the engine, and they are always way off (tps)
i have never done brakes, or an alternator, or a starter. i've never replaced a transmission, or diff (unless it was missing). i've never changed a wheel bearing (although i'm about to do a set).
i've been driving FC's on and off since 1993, i have done the 20B/13B-RE and REW's, etc etc
i usually do a thermostat, but mostly because the one in there is unknown. they usually get the in tank fuel filter sock. if its the stock exhaust it usually needs to be rewelded. i resolder the clock, and there are usually some interior plastic bits that need changing, or repair, acrylic cement works great.
i always clean out the window regulators, and regrease em, and anything else that needs it
and a GOOD cleaning, and it needs to go through the tune up page in the FSM, there are adjustments on the engine, and they are always way off (tps)
i have never done brakes, or an alternator, or a starter. i've never replaced a transmission, or diff (unless it was missing). i've never changed a wheel bearing (although i'm about to do a set).
i've been driving FC's on and off since 1993, i have done the 20B/13B-RE and REW's, etc etc
i've done engines (i buy these broken though), they ALWAYS need transmission mounts. any given car will get either a brake master and or clutch master + slave.
i usually do a thermostat, but mostly because the one in there is unknown. they usually get the in tank fuel filter sock. if its the stock exhaust it usually needs to be rewelded. i resolder the clock, and there are usually some interior plastic bits that need changing, or repair, acrylic cement works great.
i always clean out the window regulators, and regrease em, and anything else that needs it
and a GOOD cleaning, and it needs to go through the tune up page in the FSM, there are adjustments on the engine, and they are always way off (tps)
i have never done brakes, or an alternator, or a starter. i've never replaced a transmission, or diff (unless it was missing). i've never changed a wheel bearing (although i'm about to do a set).
i've been driving FC's on and off since 1993, i have done the 20B/13B-RE and REW's, etc etc
i usually do a thermostat, but mostly because the one in there is unknown. they usually get the in tank fuel filter sock. if its the stock exhaust it usually needs to be rewelded. i resolder the clock, and there are usually some interior plastic bits that need changing, or repair, acrylic cement works great.
i always clean out the window regulators, and regrease em, and anything else that needs it
and a GOOD cleaning, and it needs to go through the tune up page in the FSM, there are adjustments on the engine, and they are always way off (tps)
i have never done brakes, or an alternator, or a starter. i've never replaced a transmission, or diff (unless it was missing). i've never changed a wheel bearing (although i'm about to do a set).
i've been driving FC's on and off since 1993, i have done the 20B/13B-RE and REW's, etc etc
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
next there is a C clip on the window gear, remove this, and the three 6?mm bolts that hold the window motor on, the motor will slide off the gear and out from the assembly.
then you can roll the thing down, and clean off all the beads you can, clean out the condom, and grease these both up.
next you want to clean the track the thing goes up and down in, then grease this.
roll the window part way up, reinstall gear, reinstall motor, reinstall condom, put the clips back on, making sure they face the correct direction, put it back in and your done.
Every FC engine harness I have seen has been a disaster of crispiness, brittle or broken connectors, receding insulation, and broken wires. Mazda did an awful job with wiring, and it can lead to many issues. I'd plan on making a new engine harness, wether it be for you to run the car, or for spare when issues do start to pop up. One of the reasons I love 12a is because they were carb, eliminating lots of potential issues.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Every FC engine harness I have seen has been a disaster of crispiness, brittle or broken connectors, receding insulation, and broken wires. Mazda did an awful job with wiring, and it can lead to many issues. I'd plan on making a new engine harness, wether it be for you to run the car, or for spare when issues do start to pop up. One of the reasons I love 12a is because they were carb, eliminating lots of potential issues.
I have daily driven my FC minus the salt ridden winters of Minnesota. However, my car only has 69k on the chassis and motor. I change the oil every 3k, watch the coolant gauge, and just enjoy. There has been hiccups but they have all been minor. To date, my FC has been more reliable than my previous s13, and e30.
^I found the clock post way to funny for my own good!
^I found the clock post way to funny for my own good!
I dd my s5 n/a track car if that counts? But I dont have ac, heater, radio, and it gets a bit loud sometimes. And with the safc, drop in filter and exhaust I get around 20mpg in the city
Ive been daily driving FC's since 2003 and have never had one die on me.
Started with a 91 with 95k, I put about 60k on it and only had to replace the power steering hardline.
$190
Had a 89 GXL with 100k and I put about 60k on this one as well. Replaced a radiator and alternator
$300
Now I drive a 91 Turbo II for 99K on it. Ive only put 7K on it so far and have had no major problems, I did install a new master clutch cylinder when I first got it.
$20
I try to only buy ones that are in excellent condition and listen too their souls LOL. They always get fresh oil well before 3,000 miles. The cars don't eat brakes and don't really suffer from that much wear if kept in good shape. I always get new shocks when I buy them. So far a FC has never left me stranded or limping to the shop like the FD
Car and driver had the 91 Rx7 listed as one of its most bullet proof cars.
It's a toss up for me I loved driving the 91 Coupe and the GSLSE for daily drivers.
Started with a 91 with 95k, I put about 60k on it and only had to replace the power steering hardline.
$190
Had a 89 GXL with 100k and I put about 60k on this one as well. Replaced a radiator and alternator
$300
Now I drive a 91 Turbo II for 99K on it. Ive only put 7K on it so far and have had no major problems, I did install a new master clutch cylinder when I first got it.
$20
I try to only buy ones that are in excellent condition and listen too their souls LOL. They always get fresh oil well before 3,000 miles. The cars don't eat brakes and don't really suffer from that much wear if kept in good shape. I always get new shocks when I buy them. So far a FC has never left me stranded or limping to the shop like the FD
Car and driver had the 91 Rx7 listed as one of its most bullet proof cars.
It's a toss up for me I loved driving the 91 Coupe and the GSLSE for daily drivers.






