where the hell did he pull that one from?

 

Huu................"emphasis( HUUU)" that’s exactly what I said :-/ The only thing I see here is you change my words for “oil injection” from injected to dribble and rotor to specific apex seal. Cool to lubricate I will by the lubricate VS cool as wrong if you want to go that in-depth.

Well once again if that is correct ^ then this is a disagreement on forms of wording! We will back this up once again from generalization to exact dot!

If the ^ is wrong then I am totally WRONG sorry.

 

That is correct!

Even the worst oils (like Valvoline Synthtics 1.5% or Mystic JT8 1.7%) for ash contamination are typically less than 2 percent left over after burning.

Of course in an ideal world, you would want an oil with less than 1 percent ash like Castrol GTX oils (.85%)

 

I know better than to get into an oil debate (I run regular dino juice, changed at 3333ish mile intervals (3333*3=~10,000 miles, makes it easy to keep track), topped off when neccessary.

To answer an earlier question about gas (that noone answered): If you're running an naturally aspirated engine, anything higher than the lowest "Regular" grade gas is a waste of money and performance. Octane rating is resistance to detonation, which means your engine has to work harder to combust the gas.. You're losing performance by running anything higher. There are no additives or anything that would clean your fuel system, no black magic or anything other than that. From what I understand (read: This is hearsay, I make no claims to the validity of this statement), the optimal fuel octane for a NA is somewhere around 75-80, but noone sells that low.

to summerize: Switch down a grade, your wallet and your engine will thank you.

 

No you are not getting it.

You said:
The oil injected into the engine through the MOP and metering injectors has absolutely nothing to do with cooling.

It is only for lubrication.

Hell the fuel injected in for combustion, has more cooling potential than any miniscule amount of oil being injected by the MOP.

That is what you were wrong on... This time

 

^ Ok as I said if I was wrong from the cooling to lube then I was wrong I agreed to that! It does not cool it only lubes! Bad nfo from the board changed to good once again.

 

Well most of our engines (FC) are tuned to 87 RON octane. You would not want to go any lower than 86 RON without changing the tuning (primarly retarding leading timing- but probably increasing fuel precentage as well)

But yes in stock and mid- modified form, anything more than 87 RON is a waste of money- and loosing peak power and probably increasing deposits.

 

Hmm.. Wonder what they were talking about with that thread, then? Not that it matters much, obviously... but I'll see if I can dig up where I read that.. It was a long time ago, though, so I'm not holding much hope

 

From what I understand, Castrol GTX 20W50 is the best oil you can use while still using the OMP, due to synthetics having a higher flash point, but once you remove the OMP, running synthetic oils is possible. Also, I've been told to help clean out the oil system, you can remove the oil cooler and use a oil system cleaner to clean it out using compressed air. From what I know, running an oil system cleaner through the regular system would damage many parts. Any suggestions you guys have to cleaning out the oil system whether it be a additive or method? After removing the OMP, what weight, viscosity, and brand of synthetic oil do you guys recommend using? A 15W40 Mobil 1 synthetic was suggested so far if I wanted to run the car a little harder. Thanks guys.

 

Its ok for the cooler, make sure the T-stat is not in it or it will not open. Flush with fresh oil in the motor if you are trying to flush it or want to totally clean the system before switching dino synthetic. They make oil-pressurizing tools for priming a motor. There is another little oil T-stat in the front pulley if I understand that right it blocks or restricts flow to heat up the motor before pulling new oil in to reduce emissions. Not sure if this will effect priming or not someone here should be able to reply to it since I brought it up.

The big thing with the cooler is oil sits inside it and if u were running GTX and you change to redline then after it runs you will have mixed the oils together. So many people find it good to flush the cooler.

 

Tell me where I can buy one of these for a rotary please...

 

**** if I know thats why I did not specify.

 

If you knew anything about the rotary at all, you would know that it is not possible to spin the oil pump without turning the engine over as well. This of course assumes that the engine is fully assembled with the front cover installed. Of course, you cannot circulate oil through the system with the front cover off, so...

Please stop posting misinformation. This is your final warning. If you do it again, you will be banned.

I'm giving this warning in public to show others how serious I am about the misinformation rule.

 

Just curious, if your running synthetic in your motor, would it be fine to switch back to non synthetic at any time?

 

so does noone here run on mazda oil? it even says on the bottle something about being sweet for rotarys. and the oil itself is green, thats got to be a bonus.

as for fuel, everyone i know uses 96octane, or 98 whenever we can get it.

 

what is 87RON in R+M

 

What does "sweet for rotarys" mean???
I've never heard of this before!


How is this so?
Someone puts some green dye in the oil and it's considered a bonus???


-Ted

 

On the back of the bottle it says something like 'suitable for use on all rotary vehicles, turboed vehicles etc.'

Was being sarcastic about the colour of the oil having any extra benefits. Its just weird to see oil which is the colour of coolant.

 

Just curious, and have been for a little while...what is the advantage/disadvantage of removing the OMP and pre-mixing?

 

There's a huge premix topic in the archive.

 

I'm assuming that everyone you know runs a turbo/forced induction car, right? Cause if not, they're really hurting their performance just as much as their wallet.

 

I've done a little more reading up, and it seems the only way to clean the rotary oil system out without damage internals is to just regularly change the oil. Using an additive seems like it would damage the apex seals. Do you guys know of any methods or additives that won't harm the engine?

I found that a few other oil companies also made a 20W50 motor oil and that. Redline does make a 20W50, but it's a synthetic oil. It seems that Castrol GTX or Quaker State Peak Performance 20W50 seems to be the way to go if you're still using the OMP.

After removing the OMP, I'm not quite sure what weight and viscosity of oil to use. I was thinking along the lines of Mobil 1 full synthetic 15W50, and that's what had been suggested to me, but I am gladly taking suggestions on this.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

So if you're still using the OMP, it seems best to run 87 octane. Would you wanna use a different octane if you were pre-mixing due to the pre-mixing substance maybe raising the octane? Or is the pre-mix burn just as easily as the fuel?

 

You have to figure that the premixed oil is not as thick as regular engine oil, and also only mixed at a 1 quart to 15-16 gallon ratio (roughly). It should not have any noticible effect on your octane. If anything, it would cause it to raise slightly, since oil doesn't combust like gas, which would mean you'd want a lower octane, maybe one or two points. I still don't honestly think you'd see a difference, though.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, my knowledge of Pre-mixing is a little lax.

 

a quart of pre-mix in 15 gals of gas would radically lower octane.

3 oz premix/to 1gal gas is enough to drop a point or two.