FC3S questions
 

Alright, I decided that it's time for a few small tuneups, and am trying to figure a few things out. First of all, I read that it's not good to use the crappy synthetic oils on a FC so I was wondering if Mobil 1 Full Synthetic would be a good choice or is there better oils out there to use? Also, for an oil filter on my other car, I always used a K&N oil filter, because I figured it provided the best oil filtration. Next, a gas issue. I've been running 91 in the car, but I read that a lower octane fuel is better for the FC, so would it be better to be running 87 instead? And lastly, a pre-mix question. I haven't really found what would be a good pre-mix substance to use in the gas, so does anyknow know what would be the best to use? thanks for the help guys.

Are you talking about the '87 GXL in your profile?
Synth engine oils are a royal waste of money.
Is it worth the 3 to 5 fold increase in engine oil prices for 1hp increase?

Please don't argue about better lubrication.
I've never seen damage due to inadequate lubrication from a *good, quality, name-brand mineral engine oil* being used.

If you're still using your stock oil injection, I would recommend staying away from synths due to their higher flash point.


-Ted

well, a lot of these questions could have been answered by a search.. But i'll try to sum it up quickly. Peple have different opinions on the whole synthetic thing, i choose to run a kendall 20-50 which is a good mineral base. k&n's are good filters. If you have a turbo2 then you need to run premium, if its n/a then you can get away with 87. Unless you have made timing adjustments, in which case you should ask your tuner what is best. About the premix, unless you have removed your oil metering pump ( the part that injects oil into the working chambers) you dont need to run oil in the gas.

I feel an oil debate brewing!!! My left knee always has a touch of rumatizm when a good debate is brewing.

*checks over shoulder for Icemark*

does synth tend to get some nice carbonization (i made that word) in the combusion chamber?

you dont need to run premium in a TII unless its modified moderatly modifed, i ran 87 in my 10th AE all day and i had no problems even with a highflow filter and new downpipe.

My question about what oil to use was because I always though synthetics were better lubrication than conventional oils. Also, I'm removing the OMP and going to run pre-mix is why I'm asking these questions. I was wondering what type of oil is best to use in an FC that's running on pre-mix, and I read that the cheaper synthetics are junk, but a good brand like Mobil 1 or Royal Purple will do excellent. I'll probably just got with a K&N oil filter because it seems like the best you could buy. I wasn't sure about the gas issue because I read that higher octane fuels cause more of a carbon build-up due to the detergents and such they place in the fuel to raise the octane rating. I've been running 91, and wasn't sure if I should run 87 instead. I really have no idea what would be the best pre-mix to use, mostly because I've never dealt much with this issue besides in a normal lawnmower where I used the cheapest stuff I could find. Thanks for the help guys. :bigthumb:

synthetics are made so you dont have to change your oil as often, not provide any better lube. 3000 miles vs 7500-10000 miles depending on brand.

Since you wouldn't have to change your oil as often, wouldn't it mean that it's a cleaner and better oil? I'm just trying to get some quick answers because I'll be heading into town tommorrow to pick up supplies for the car, and figured you guys could help me out.

Not necessarily cleaner or better. Just designed for better durability. I personally switched to synths because i killed off my OMP system and figured "why the hell not..?"

unless you ditch the OMP and premix (a high quality 2 cycle oil rated for fuel injected engines) in the gas, if you try to run 5000 miles or more (i wouldn't do this on a rotary regardless of what oil it is) you would have injected all 5 quarts from the change into the engine and burned it (adding more along the way) seems pretty expensive for nominally better lubrication along with questionably increased carbon deposits

Yes, synths offer better lubrication.
The questions is...is it worth the higher cost?
Personally, I don't think it is.
Maybe if you're racing, and you need that extra edge of protection, yes.
For a street car, especially a non-turbo, it's a royal waste of money.
You'd be better off doing TWICE as many oil changes with mineral oil - your engine would be happier, and I doubt you'd even notice the advantage synth engine oils might give you.

I really don't like prolonging the oil change intervals.
A lot of oils (not just synth engine oils) tout being able to run longer intervals in between oil changes - this is for LAZY people.
Please, take care of your rotary engine with proper 3,000 mile oil changes.
Your engine will thank you!

Sure, if you're pre-mixing, synth engine oil will not hurt.
But I still think it's a waste of money on your non-turbo.

If you're looking at something to spend money on, I'd highly recommend using $12 Purolator PureONE or Mobil1 (synth?) oil filters!


-Ted

Another one I just can’t stay out of these.

I have lost allot of motors due to oils even good synthetics I found the issue was the types of blends the synthetics used "not rotary have not been using them long enough". I feel the proper oil issue is bigger then most people make it out to be. I do not argue if it has been time proven then don’t fear it a cheep example of this is GTX oil.

All motor losses were do to crank bearings seizing from the oil reaching flash point and not cooling the bearing properly. I will see if I can find any of them and take pics.

This is high performance application I am talking about running the edge flat out for 45 min at a time 5 times a day.

in my opinion...

why nto spend the moeny on diesel oil instead, like mobil delo if you really want to buy expenisve motor oil...

thsoe thign should last a logn time, esp due to high heat, high abuse, and low oil changes

dont synthetics resist combustion, and therefore would not be a wise thing to use on a car with an OMP?

Castrol GTX 20-50

There I said it.

Run what the racers run

Go to Mazdatrix website and see what Dave Lemon (track record holder for fastest lap at Willowbrook and Streets of willow springs) runs. He said it was ok...then I,m ok with it.

Of course I know the change the oil every 3000 miles, even if it says it can go from 7000 or more miles. I've always loved Mobil 1, and IMO they are still one of the best oils you can buy. Something I was actually thinking of doing was buying some Mobil 1 drive clean oil, and running it through the car for 500 miles or so, then removing the OMP and switching over to synthetic in an attempt to remove all the old and crummy oil from the engine or is there a better way to clean out the lubrication system? What do you suggest for oil brands and oil filter brand and what weight oil should I use? Remember, this is a car that will be running without the OMP and using pre-mix. ;)

dont worry guys, you dont REALLY have to change your oil every 3K. just give you engine a nice big hug and tell her you love her and everything will be OK.

Not really. Almost all of the carbon you see is due to burning gasoline. Only a super tiny amount is actually oil residue.

im new and i dont want to start another thread about what oil to use so ill just ask it here.

OPM? i have an idead of what it is... i think. from what i concluded, its a pump that injects (from the fuel intectors?) oil from the oil pan (the same oil that cycles throughout the engine). im not into moding yet and i plan on keeping my OPM. what oil should i use on my 90 gxl? i read alot of oil theads sayin gtx but just want an upfront. thanks

darksider - OMP or MOP, stand for oil metering pump. It is the device on the exhaust side of the front cover it has 4 little tubes brownish in color connected to it. This takes oil up to oil injectors on the top of the block next to the fuel injectors. This injects oil into the chamber to cool the rotors down.

Castrol GTX would be a great oil for you to use.

Well, I went to the store today because I needed to get the oil changed in the 7 and help clean things out. Only Castol had 20W50, and nobody other brand did so I bought 7 quarts of it and a K&N oil filter. I know this would probably be the best oil I could buy to clean out the oil system until I remove the OMP and premix. I believe I'll be sticking with my K&N oil filters, mostly because it seems like the best you could buy. What weight, viscosity, and brand would be the best to use once the OMP is gone? Also, any suggestions for cleaning out the oil system, such as an additive or method to use? Just trying to do as much to my 7 1 step at a time and make it run as smooth as possible. Thanks a ton guys, and if you could help me out I'm usually always on my AIM screen name Ice Wolf RX7. :D

heh if anything
spend money on some oem mazda filters

Umm.. Can you back this statement up? I have never heard of this..

If you don't know, don't post.

The oil is injected (rather, dribbled) onto the apex seals to lubricate them. The oil jets on the eccentric shaft spray oil inside the rotors to cool them. This oil is recirculated back into the system, not burned like that from the metering oil pump.

Mistakes are a normal part of life. Being a constant source of misinformation is not.