LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

Half the fuses in your car do not have power, how is your car able to run at all? This might sound silly but did you have your key turned to the ON position when you were checking those fuses. A multimeter would be a great investment over a test light (can be picked up at walmart for about $15.00).

Change your fuel filter!

If you pull your fuel pump to check it (pretty simple to do, access panel under carpet in hatch) get a new gasket for the actual panel piece. Even if it looks like it's okay; remember, it's an old part, and for $6.00 to prevent a leak (wouldn't take long to lose more than $6.00 worth of gas from a leak, not to mention fire danger). Also while you have the fuel pump out to replace the sock and o-ring, you might want to check/fix the factory ground issue while you're there <---- could be your problem anyways

DeMoe Aurelius

iTrader: (4)

the Top row of three fuses between the two relays are spare fuses not sure if the 2 relays are in the coupes also... The sock is the Fuel pump prefilter it's like a strainer to keep the chunks of garbage in the fuel tank from goin into and cloggin the pump...

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

well after having an electrician look at the wiring and stuff. he said that my fuse box went out. so i need a new one.. anyone got one? as for the cutting out, yea it was determined to be my pump being clogged cuz the mechanic started it the car. i just cant get the last freakin screw off cuz its stripped!!! FML

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Impact Screw Driver... Takes them right out...

P.S. I would be weary of a fuse box "going out"... If it is, how so? Most of the time things like these can be fixed unless it is melted...

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

well, i swapped out the fuel pump with a homies used one. still didnt start. all i heard was clicking from under the hood. i guess only for sure way is to get a new pump and and change the filter.

as for the fuse box. im not totally sold on that either but ima focus on getting it running 1st. just need to get PAID!!! fml...

ill post more later.. thanks again

Roto_Racing

iTrader: (1)

i have a very oddball answer but it happened to me. start the engine heat er up and strart loosely shaking the c.a.s (crank angle sensor) wires. if the car shuts off theres ur problem, also i had a second f-up the leading coil has a wire hanging out dont know what its for but if it touches any metal the car will sputter and eventually die, also please check ur TPS really important this little piece of craps wire is soo close to the engine they eventually melt the plastic. what else theres a vacume line near the fuel lines its a possibility that it may have torn or something and when it comes loose or the gap in the line widens it looses pressure and pop goes the exhaust and sputters the engine to a halt. well thats the most common symptoms hope it helps.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

update...

car runs..
replaced fuel pump.. could only afford to replace the pump its self right now it came with this dink lil triangle filter/sock. but it was sooo cheap it broke off so i used the old one (gonna buy a new one later) 55bucks
replaced fuel filter.. i got it new one from clarks discount auto in bellflower. it was generic for like toyotas n some other car. only diff was i had to chage the in in hose cuz it was so old that it has a hole all of sudden cuz the new filter has 90 degree angle in let now same as the top.

i just noticed that i had them hose clams that you need a pair of plyers to get off. soo annoying. i think im gonna go change ever hose and clamp to the ones where you use a crew driver.

but yea, now that i know (or at least hope to know) that the fuel and electrical problem are separate. with that said im going to remove the dash soon (hopefully this weekend) and see where that fuse shortage (if any) is. cuz what im thinking is if all my fuses are working in the engine bay.. (cuz my fuel pump still works and its back there too with my lights) then i must be having a short between the two fuse boxes, no?
that dash has to go anyways it is literally disintegrating. im gonna try to find a "light switch" i hear those go out too for some reason. i wont rest till this is solved.!!!

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

sup guys..

i didnt want to make a new thread so i thought id just continue off this one.

i still have no cluster and tail or brake lights. looked up the FSM and went down the check the check list... All fuses in engine bay and fuse box is good. tail light switch is getting electricity, replaced headlight swtich from dash. relays at the front of the car under the hood are good. the only thing is that the 2nd row of fuses in the fuse box are NOT getting electricity but the rest of them are. FSM says to check harness connector that connects the front to the back. where is that? any other ideas? or do i just need a new wiring harness completely?

DeMoe Aurelius

iTrader: (4)

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../S4fusebox.jpg
I hope this helps you with the search Dun Dun!!!

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

unfortunately no.. that dosent help. but ill keep looking.. thanks

new2mazda

iTrader: (1)

was that volt test running or no? cause running it should be over 13v easy.... im having similar fuel issues runnin lean as hell and fuel pump isnt gettin full voltage... could be between resistor and the actual pump

sorry but im thinkin electrical... u rlly need to give it a test at the fuel pump to see if it is gettin full power and such. i saw u tested a dif alt but who knows whats between everything