I'm new here, and come from the honda community(where when someone gets asked if they can swap a chevy engine into their car they get laughed at). I've started looking at 2nd gen rx-7s as a project and have a cpl questions. Yes, ive looked at the FAQs and have done a mild search.

1)I understand that a jdm/usdm T2 engine can be swaped into a NA rx-7(isnt it like 88-92s are easier because the mount points line up). What im wondering is how much it would cost for a full functioning reliable swap? Like turbo, tranny, driveshaft, axles etc...

2)In the event that I get stuck with a NA 13b(is the 13b NA, or is the turbo like a 13bt?) what can be done with it to get more power? I understand the basics of freeing up intake and exhaust, i've also heard mentioning of porting which seems to give good hp output. I'm just wondering what else internally can be done.

Thank you for your time.

 

Stuck with an N/a hah!

My N/a destroys little hondas. Never gone up against an NSX though.

Santiago

 

The years don't really matter as long as you keep to the 2nd gen. It will be easier to swap the same series (such as using a 86-88 engine in an 86-88 car, or a 89-91 engine into a 89-91 FC.
Cost can be as low as $500 for the swap if you sell your old parts, to over $10K. It just depends on how much you do and what condition you want the new parts in. My 13BT swap into my 'vert cost around $7k, but I rebuilt the Jspec motor before it went in and used things like a new FMIC and rebuilt tranny.

Quote:

2)In the event that I get stuck with a NA 13b(is the 13b NA, or is the turbo like a 13bt?) what can be done with it to get more power? .

If you want a turbo, you should buy a turbo FC rather than swaping one unless you get a model that can benefit from the swap (which rules out swaps in GXL models- as they are the same as a T2 just without the Turbo and turbo driveline).

Quote:

i've also heard mentioning of porting which seems to give good hp output. I'm just wondering what else internally can be done.

Porting is generally all that needs to be done. It should be considered the same as changing the cam(s) and valves in a piston motor. You can change the rotors as well for higher or lower compression (depending on what you are doing with the car), but generally it is not cost effective.

 

Thanks for the info, im having trouble finding a T2 around where I live so im leaning more towards an NA setup for now. Ive read here that a good port job can add anywhere from 0-50hp (im assuming 50 is a hardcore race port setup?).
So,
150hp(stock engine)
+30(streetable port job)
+20(I/H/E)
=200hp, so I'm looking at about 170ish whp with an NA setup?

Just trying to see if I should hold out and keep looking for a T2 or if a NA will fit my needs.

Also, the turbo hood has a scoop in the middle correct?
Thanks again.

 

Actually, the hood scoop on the TII is slightly off-center towards the driver's side. At a glance, you wouldn't notice it, but I think it's pretty cool.

 

The turbos hood scoop is actually offset slightly from center towards the left side if the car.

Driveline losses are a tightly argued thing, with some people claiming as little as 22% and others claiming as much as 35%. Because very few people have access to a engine dyno as well as a rolling dyno it would be very difficult to know for sure. To know for sure, you would have to first engine dyno then install the engine, then rolling dyno.

The 89-91 13B N/A engines started with 160 HP, and had a slightly better intake system. If you are planing on building a motor up, the 89-91 N/A would be your first choice. Using true dual exhausts (run a search there are a couple people here using them) will give you the most bang, with med street port. True duals means there is a seperate exhaust pipe all the way from the engine back for each rotor. It should be possible to get at or near 200 HP with the modifications you have outlined.

Probably closer in numbers would be:
+15-20 (streetable port job)
+25 (I/H/E)

 

Boo yah!! Beat ya by a whole minute, Icemark!! Of course... you wrote out a whole lot more stuff than I did, but meh!

 

which reminds me, you need to fix your signature as 10 lines is the maximum allowed by the admins on this board.

 

OWNED!!!

 

 

Also, would the NA drivetrain be able to handle the extra power? I figured thats why you had to change the drivetrain from the T2 to NA(if you were doing the swap) not because parts wouldnt match up, but because it couldnt handle the extra power.

 

if you don't beat on it too hard. There are a couple of people claiming running 250+ hp through the N/A driveline, but I am rather skeptical.

 

I'm planning on running, 13BT, TII transmission, custom shaft, stock gxl n/a rear end. See how long it holds. Down the road I'll probably just finda TII rear end. Going to run the stock turbo for awhile, dowpipe, full exhaust, microtech lt-8, etc.

-Marc

 

There is a guy outside of Dallas getting around 275 out his N/A but it's a track car only. I suppose you could drive it on the street but I would guess he has no bottom end at all.

 

mmm..bridge port