fc headlight conversion
11-01-08, 09:21 AM
#27
The Ceaseless Discharge
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Metairie, LA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I honestly cannot believe how dumb people can be. You guys do realize that H4 is not a bulb type, but a bulb size? (9003) To say HIDs don't belong in H4 housing is the dumbest thing i've ever heard. And also, there is nothing wrong with ebay HIDs. They are real, but not as good. They use the same type of ignitor, are filled with the same argon gas, and emit the same type of light. So what if you don't like them. Don't ******* post. It's kinda retarded for you to act like some internet gangster and tell people that you're going to run them off the road. Honestly, how old are you? Grow the **** up.
In my opinion, get the housings and HID kit from ebay, put them in, you'll be more than satisfied. **** The Haters.
Steve.
In my opinion, get the housings and HID kit from ebay, put them in, you'll be more than satisfied. **** The Haters.
Steve.
Last edited by linchpin360; 11-01-08 at 09:25 AM.
11-01-08, 11:57 AM
#28
Smoke moar
Get some salvana (Dunno how its spelled) halogen sealed beam lights for your seven.
I think they cost 40bucks for 2, they work great. One stopped being bright quick as hell for me though and I just went to regular lights (Don't drive at night) prolly isn't normal for them but that was after like 8 months; I'll go back to them once I drive at night more often.
I think they cost 40bucks for 2, they work great. One stopped being bright quick as hell for me though and I just went to regular lights (Don't drive at night) prolly isn't normal for them but that was after like 8 months; I'll go back to them once I drive at night more often.
11-01-08, 06:59 PM
#29
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
http://forums.officer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41131
I honestly cannot believe how dumb people can be. You guys do realize that H4 is not a bulb type, but a bulb size? (9003) To say HIDs don't belong in H4 housing is the dumbest thing i've ever heard. And also, there is nothing wrong with ebay HIDs. They are real, but not as good. They use the same type of ignitor, are filled with the same argon gas, and emit the same type of light. So what if you don't like them. Don't ******* post. It's kinda retarded for you to act like some internet gangster and tell people that you're going to run them off the road. Honestly, how old are you? Grow the **** up.
In my opinion, get the housings and HID kit from ebay, put them in, you'll be more than satisfied. **** The Haters.
Steve.
In my opinion, get the housings and HID kit from ebay, put them in, you'll be more than satisfied. **** The Haters.
Steve.
11-01-08, 07:16 PM
#31
Smoke moar
It's illegal because it blinds people, end of story.
I doubt TTT cares that they're illegal, it's because they BLIND people, and I do not enjoy driving my seven and being blinded by these lights, in our cars (atleast for me) my eyes are right in the beam of these idiot's cars and I have to look to the other side so I can see.
I wouldn't use them because I wouldn't want to blind other people just so I can see more when stock lights provide enough light for me, the hibeam toggle is handy as ever to flick on when your in too dark of area and no ones around flip em on, my friend always does when hes in mountain roads I taught him to identify when another cars coming around a corner so he can flip em off before he blinds them.
I doubt TTT cares that they're illegal, it's because they BLIND people, and I do not enjoy driving my seven and being blinded by these lights, in our cars (atleast for me) my eyes are right in the beam of these idiot's cars and I have to look to the other side so I can see.
I wouldn't use them because I wouldn't want to blind other people just so I can see more when stock lights provide enough light for me, the hibeam toggle is handy as ever to flick on when your in too dark of area and no ones around flip em on, my friend always does when hes in mountain roads I taught him to identify when another cars coming around a corner so he can flip em off before he blinds them.
11-01-08, 08:02 PM
#32
Hobby or mental illness?
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/
Best upgrade are the E-code Cibie H4 lamps, the Bosch are also very good and cheaper. Super white and super blue are crap.
Best upgrade are the E-code Cibie H4 lamps, the Bosch are also very good and cheaper. Super white and super blue are crap.
11-01-08, 08:58 PM
#33
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
[quote=Daniel Stern Lighting]So you've read about HID headlamps and have it in mind to convert your car. A few mouse clicks on the web, and you've found a couple of outfits offering to sell you a "conversion" that will fit any car with a given type of halogen bulb, for between $150 and $600. STOP, put away that credit card. Trying to "convert" halogen headlamps to HID is an unsafe thing to do. There are NO legitimate or safe HID bulb retrofits for halogen headlamps. Here's why-
An HID kit consists of HID ballasts and bulbs for "retrofitting" into a halogen headlamp. Often, these products are advertised using the name of a reputable lighting company ("Real Philips kit! Real Osram kit! Real Hella kit!") to try to give the potential buyer the illusion of legitimacy. Fact: While some of the components in these kits are sometimes manufactured by the companies mentioned, the components aren't being put to their designed or intended use. Reputable companies like Philips, Osram, Hella, etc. never endorse this kind of "retrofit" usage of their products.
Halogen headlamps and HID headlamps require very different optics to produce a safe and effective—not to mention legal—beam pattern. How come? Because of the very different characteristics of the two kinds of light source.
A halogen bulb has a cylindrical light source: the glowing filament. The space immediately surrounding the cylinder of light is completely dark, and so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is along the edges of the cylinder of light. The ends of the filament cylinder fade from bright to dark. An HID bulb, on the other hand, has a crescent-shaped light source -- the arc. It's crescent-shaped because as it passes through the space between the two electrodes, its heat causes it to try to rise. The space immediately surrounding the crescent of light glows in layers...the closer to the crescent of light, the brighter the glow. The ends of the arc crescent are the brightest points, and immediately beyond these points is completely dark, so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is at the ends of the crescent of light.
This diagram shows the very different characteristics of the filament vs. the arc:
When designing the optics (lens and/or reflector) for a lamp, the characteristics of the light source are the driving factor around which everything else must be engineered. If you go and change the light source, you've done the equivalent of putting on somebody else's eyeglasses: You can probably make them fit on your face OK, but you won't see properly.
Here are some downloadable PDF tests done by DOT and CalCoast Labs on halogen headlamps equipped with "HID kits":
You can read some of DOT's statements on the subject here, here, here, and here — all links will open in new windows. And you can read the German perspective here, and the same from Hong Kong here. Some "HID kit" marketeers will try to tell you that the kits are technically illegal only because the US headlamp laws are stuck in the past. That's wrong; the world's experts and regulators all say the same thing: Don't!
Now, what about those "retrofit" jobs in which the beam cutoff still appears sharp? Don't be fooled; it's an error to judge a beam pattern solely by its cutoff. In many lamps, especially the projector types, the cutoff will remain the same regardless of what light source is behind it. Halogen bulb, HID capsule, cigarette lighter, firefly, hold it up to the sun—whatever. That's because of the way a projector lamp works. The cutoff is simply the projected image of a piece of metal running side-to-side behind the lens. Where the optics come in is in distributing the light under the cutoff. And, as with all other automotive lamps (and, in fact, all optical instruments), the optics are calculated based not just on where the light source is within the lamp (focal length) but also the specific photometric characteristics of the light source...which parts of it are brighter, which parts of it are darker, where the boundaries of the light source are, whether the boundaries are sharp or fuzzy, the shape of the light source, and so forth.
As if the optical mismatch weren't reason enough to drop the idea of "retrofitting" an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs—and it is!—there are even more reasons why not to do it. Here are some of them:
The only available arc capsules have a longitudinal arc (arc path runs front to back) on the axis of the bulb, but many popular halogen headlamp bulbs, such as 9004, 9007, H3 and H12, use a filament that is transverse (side-to-side) and/or offset (not on the axis of the bulb) central axis of the headlamp reflector). In this case, it is impossible even to roughly approximate the position and orientation of the filament with a "retrofit" HID capsule. Just because your headlamp might use an axial-filament bulb, though, doesn't mean you've jumped the hurdles—the laws of optical physics don't bend even for the cleverest marketing department, nor for the catchiest HID "retrofit" kit box.
A relatively new gimmick is HID arc capsules set in an electromagnetic base so that they shift up and down or back and forth. These are being marketed as "dual beam" kits that claim to address the loss of high beam with fixed-base "retrofits" in place of dual-filament halogen bulbs like 9004, 9007, H4, and H13. A cheaper variant of this is one that uses a fixed HID bulb with a halogen bulb strapped or glued to the side of it...yikes! What you wind up with is two poorly-formed beams, at best. The reason the original equipment market has not adopted the movable-capsule designs they've been playing with since the mid 1990s is because it is impossible to control the arc position accurately so it winds up in the same position each and every time.
In the original-equipment field, there are single-capsule dual-beam systems appearing ("BiXenon", etc.), but these all rely on a movable optical shield, or movable reflector—the arc capsule stays in one place. The Original Equipment engineers have a great deal of money and resources at their disposal, and if a movable capsule were a practical way to do the job, they'd do it. The "retrofit" kits certainly don't address this problem anywhere near satisfaction. And even if they did, remember: Whether a fixed or moving-capsule "retrofit" is contemplated, solving the arc-position problem and calling it good is like going to a hospital with two broken ribs, a sprained ankle and a crushed toe and having the nurse say "Well, you're free to go home now, we've put your ankle in a sling!" Focal length (arc/filament positioning) is only just ONE issue out of several.
The most dangerous part of the attempt to "retrofit" Xenon headlamps is that sometimes you get a deceptive and illusory "improvement" in the performance of the headlamp. The performance of the headlamp is perceived to be "better" because of the much higher level of foreground lighting (on the road immediately in front of the car). However, the beam patterns produced by this kind of "conversion" virtually always give less distance light, and often an alarming lack of light where there's meant to be a relative maximum in light intensity. The result is the illusion that you can see better than you actually can, and that's not safe.
It's tricky to judge headlamp beam performance without a lot of knowledge, a lot of training and a lot of special equipment, because subjective perceptions are very misleading. Having a lot of strong light in the foreground, that is on the road close to the car and out to the sides, is very comforting and reliably produces a strong impression of "good headlights". The problem is that not only is foreground lighting of decidedly secondary importance when travelling much above 30 mph, but having a very strong pool of light close to the car causes your pupils to close down, worsening your distance vision...all the while giving you this false sense of security. This is to say nothing of the massive amounts of glare to other road users and backdazzle to you, the driver, that results from these "retrofits".
HID headlamps also require careful weatherproofing and electrical shielding because of the high voltages involved. These unsafe "retrofits" make it physically possible to insert an HID bulb where a halogen bulb belongs [Which is EXACTELY WHAT EVERYONE IN THIS THREAD IS TALKING ABOUT], but this practice is illegal and dangerous, regardless of claims by these marketers that their systems are "beam pattern corrected" or the fraudulent use of established brand names to try to trick you into thinking the product is legitimate. In order to work correctly and safely, HID headlamps must be designed from the start as HID headlamps.
What about the law, what does it have to say on the matter? In virtually every first-world country, HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps are illegal. They're illegal clear across Europe and in all of the many countries that use European ECE headlight regulations. They're illegal in the US and Canada. Some people dismiss this because North American regulations, in particular, are written in such a manner as to reject a great many genuinely good headlamps. Nevertheless, on the particular count of HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps, the world's regulators and engineers all say DON'T!
The only safe and legitimate HID retrofit is one that replaces the entire headlamp—that is lens, reflector, bulb...the whole system—with optics designed for HID usage. In the aftermarket, it is possible to get clever with the growing number of available products, such as Hella's modular projectors available in HID or halogen, and fabricate your own brackets and bezels [which is what I did], or to modify an original-equipment halogen headlamp housing to contain optical "guts" designed for HID usage (though it should be noted that "cooking" the lens off a composite headlamp, installing HID optics and re-sealing the lens creates major problems of its own, and does not result in a legal headlamp).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please note: From time to time, I am asked to comment on what are marketed as "new developments" in HID kits, and those asking sometimes point out to me that these "new developments" might render this article out-of-date, since the copyright date on the article is older than the date of these "new developments". Please understand, marketeers will always be coming up with dazzling new pseudoscience, tempting new hype and sneaky new ways of trying to convince you to buy their stuff. It's what they do. This article will never go out of date, because the problems with HID kits are conceptual problems, not problems of implementation. Therefore, they cannot be overcome by additional research and development, any more than someone could develop a way for you to put on somebody else's eyeglasses and see correctly.
An HID kit consists of HID ballasts and bulbs for "retrofitting" into a halogen headlamp. Often, these products are advertised using the name of a reputable lighting company ("Real Philips kit! Real Osram kit! Real Hella kit!") to try to give the potential buyer the illusion of legitimacy. Fact: While some of the components in these kits are sometimes manufactured by the companies mentioned, the components aren't being put to their designed or intended use. Reputable companies like Philips, Osram, Hella, etc. never endorse this kind of "retrofit" usage of their products.
Halogen headlamps and HID headlamps require very different optics to produce a safe and effective—not to mention legal—beam pattern. How come? Because of the very different characteristics of the two kinds of light source.
A halogen bulb has a cylindrical light source: the glowing filament. The space immediately surrounding the cylinder of light is completely dark, and so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is along the edges of the cylinder of light. The ends of the filament cylinder fade from bright to dark. An HID bulb, on the other hand, has a crescent-shaped light source -- the arc. It's crescent-shaped because as it passes through the space between the two electrodes, its heat causes it to try to rise. The space immediately surrounding the crescent of light glows in layers...the closer to the crescent of light, the brighter the glow. The ends of the arc crescent are the brightest points, and immediately beyond these points is completely dark, so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is at the ends of the crescent of light.
This diagram shows the very different characteristics of the filament vs. the arc:
When designing the optics (lens and/or reflector) for a lamp, the characteristics of the light source are the driving factor around which everything else must be engineered. If you go and change the light source, you've done the equivalent of putting on somebody else's eyeglasses: You can probably make them fit on your face OK, but you won't see properly.
Here are some downloadable PDF tests done by DOT and CalCoast Labs on halogen headlamps equipped with "HID kits":
You can read some of DOT's statements on the subject here, here, here, and here — all links will open in new windows. And you can read the German perspective here, and the same from Hong Kong here. Some "HID kit" marketeers will try to tell you that the kits are technically illegal only because the US headlamp laws are stuck in the past. That's wrong; the world's experts and regulators all say the same thing: Don't!
Now, what about those "retrofit" jobs in which the beam cutoff still appears sharp? Don't be fooled; it's an error to judge a beam pattern solely by its cutoff. In many lamps, especially the projector types, the cutoff will remain the same regardless of what light source is behind it. Halogen bulb, HID capsule, cigarette lighter, firefly, hold it up to the sun—whatever. That's because of the way a projector lamp works. The cutoff is simply the projected image of a piece of metal running side-to-side behind the lens. Where the optics come in is in distributing the light under the cutoff. And, as with all other automotive lamps (and, in fact, all optical instruments), the optics are calculated based not just on where the light source is within the lamp (focal length) but also the specific photometric characteristics of the light source...which parts of it are brighter, which parts of it are darker, where the boundaries of the light source are, whether the boundaries are sharp or fuzzy, the shape of the light source, and so forth.
As if the optical mismatch weren't reason enough to drop the idea of "retrofitting" an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs—and it is!—there are even more reasons why not to do it. Here are some of them:
The only available arc capsules have a longitudinal arc (arc path runs front to back) on the axis of the bulb, but many popular halogen headlamp bulbs, such as 9004, 9007, H3 and H12, use a filament that is transverse (side-to-side) and/or offset (not on the axis of the bulb) central axis of the headlamp reflector). In this case, it is impossible even to roughly approximate the position and orientation of the filament with a "retrofit" HID capsule. Just because your headlamp might use an axial-filament bulb, though, doesn't mean you've jumped the hurdles—the laws of optical physics don't bend even for the cleverest marketing department, nor for the catchiest HID "retrofit" kit box.
A relatively new gimmick is HID arc capsules set in an electromagnetic base so that they shift up and down or back and forth. These are being marketed as "dual beam" kits that claim to address the loss of high beam with fixed-base "retrofits" in place of dual-filament halogen bulbs like 9004, 9007, H4, and H13. A cheaper variant of this is one that uses a fixed HID bulb with a halogen bulb strapped or glued to the side of it...yikes! What you wind up with is two poorly-formed beams, at best. The reason the original equipment market has not adopted the movable-capsule designs they've been playing with since the mid 1990s is because it is impossible to control the arc position accurately so it winds up in the same position each and every time.
In the original-equipment field, there are single-capsule dual-beam systems appearing ("BiXenon", etc.), but these all rely on a movable optical shield, or movable reflector—the arc capsule stays in one place. The Original Equipment engineers have a great deal of money and resources at their disposal, and if a movable capsule were a practical way to do the job, they'd do it. The "retrofit" kits certainly don't address this problem anywhere near satisfaction. And even if they did, remember: Whether a fixed or moving-capsule "retrofit" is contemplated, solving the arc-position problem and calling it good is like going to a hospital with two broken ribs, a sprained ankle and a crushed toe and having the nurse say "Well, you're free to go home now, we've put your ankle in a sling!" Focal length (arc/filament positioning) is only just ONE issue out of several.
The most dangerous part of the attempt to "retrofit" Xenon headlamps is that sometimes you get a deceptive and illusory "improvement" in the performance of the headlamp. The performance of the headlamp is perceived to be "better" because of the much higher level of foreground lighting (on the road immediately in front of the car). However, the beam patterns produced by this kind of "conversion" virtually always give less distance light, and often an alarming lack of light where there's meant to be a relative maximum in light intensity. The result is the illusion that you can see better than you actually can, and that's not safe.
It's tricky to judge headlamp beam performance without a lot of knowledge, a lot of training and a lot of special equipment, because subjective perceptions are very misleading. Having a lot of strong light in the foreground, that is on the road close to the car and out to the sides, is very comforting and reliably produces a strong impression of "good headlights". The problem is that not only is foreground lighting of decidedly secondary importance when travelling much above 30 mph, but having a very strong pool of light close to the car causes your pupils to close down, worsening your distance vision...all the while giving you this false sense of security. This is to say nothing of the massive amounts of glare to other road users and backdazzle to you, the driver, that results from these "retrofits".
HID headlamps also require careful weatherproofing and electrical shielding because of the high voltages involved. These unsafe "retrofits" make it physically possible to insert an HID bulb where a halogen bulb belongs [Which is EXACTELY WHAT EVERYONE IN THIS THREAD IS TALKING ABOUT], but this practice is illegal and dangerous, regardless of claims by these marketers that their systems are "beam pattern corrected" or the fraudulent use of established brand names to try to trick you into thinking the product is legitimate. In order to work correctly and safely, HID headlamps must be designed from the start as HID headlamps.
What about the law, what does it have to say on the matter? In virtually every first-world country, HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps are illegal. They're illegal clear across Europe and in all of the many countries that use European ECE headlight regulations. They're illegal in the US and Canada. Some people dismiss this because North American regulations, in particular, are written in such a manner as to reject a great many genuinely good headlamps. Nevertheless, on the particular count of HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps, the world's regulators and engineers all say DON'T!
The only safe and legitimate HID retrofit is one that replaces the entire headlamp—that is lens, reflector, bulb...the whole system—with optics designed for HID usage. In the aftermarket, it is possible to get clever with the growing number of available products, such as Hella's modular projectors available in HID or halogen, and fabricate your own brackets and bezels [which is what I did], or to modify an original-equipment halogen headlamp housing to contain optical "guts" designed for HID usage (though it should be noted that "cooking" the lens off a composite headlamp, installing HID optics and re-sealing the lens creates major problems of its own, and does not result in a legal headlamp).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please note: From time to time, I am asked to comment on what are marketed as "new developments" in HID kits, and those asking sometimes point out to me that these "new developments" might render this article out-of-date, since the copyright date on the article is older than the date of these "new developments". Please understand, marketeers will always be coming up with dazzling new pseudoscience, tempting new hype and sneaky new ways of trying to convince you to buy their stuff. It's what they do. This article will never go out of date, because the problems with HID kits are conceptual problems, not problems of implementation. Therefore, they cannot be overcome by additional research and development, any more than someone could develop a way for you to put on somebody else's eyeglasses and see correctly.
The following users liked this post:
fidelity101 (11-18-20)
11-01-08, 09:17 PM
#34
No money. No love.
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: SACRAMENTO
Posts: 2,807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do it right...I did and paid for it, but the light output and nice cutoff is well worth it. I don't blind people. Can stand facing my car with the headlights up and not be blinded at all.
^Though it may be ugly, I pretty much only use the headlights at night when noone sees the lack of shrouds lol
^Though it may be ugly, I pretty much only use the headlights at night when noone sees the lack of shrouds lol
That kit looks familiar.
11-01-08, 10:17 PM
#36
No money. No love.
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: SACRAMENTO
Posts: 2,807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lol yeah minus the small clearance issues the kit is pretty badass 
Eh I'm using the R-magic side skirt replicas
Hows your neverending project coming along?
Eh I'm using the R-magic side skirt replicas
Hows your neverending project coming along?
11-01-08, 10:45 PM
#37
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
neverending 
In the shop working on it right now. Was hoping to get her running by Turkey day by ran into a small turbo problem - the primary turbine wheel is FUBAR. So now I'm debating what to do but still moving forward with all the, again, neverending, list of little things to do that turn into huge things to accomplish
In the shop working on it right now. Was hoping to get her running by Turkey day by ran into a small turbo problem - the primary turbine wheel is FUBAR. So now I'm debating what to do but still moving forward with all the, again, neverending, list of little things to do that turn into huge things to accomplish
11-02-08, 11:21 AM
#38
The Ceaseless Discharge
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Metairie, LA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've never used the ignore function before but this level of sheer unbridaled stupidity warrants it. Although, I suppose reading more of your silly posts in the future could be good for a laugh.[/QUOTE]
That's really funny. My unbridaled stupidity. All because you don't like being called out for acting childish. Forums are not chat rooms. They are here for more knowledgeable people to assist the lesser. There's no need to tell people that you will run them off the road. If you don't like them state your opinion, don't threaten. I'm done with this subject. If you want to act like that, that's your choice. It's kinda dumb getting into an online arguement with somebody you will probably never see face to face.
That's really funny. My unbridaled stupidity. All because you don't like being called out for acting childish. Forums are not chat rooms. They are here for more knowledgeable people to assist the lesser. There's no need to tell people that you will run them off the road. If you don't like them state your opinion, don't threaten. I'm done with this subject. If you want to act like that, that's your choice. It's kinda dumb getting into an online arguement with somebody you will probably never see face to face.
11-02-08, 03:38 PM
#40
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Then why are you here? 
You're telling people to go out and buy the cheapest product possible, blind people, and break the law. Regardless of how ridiculous the law is or that the chance of being caught and ticketed is ridiculously low, you're still telling people to do illegal ****. Way to go 
You're telling people to go out and buy the cheapest product possible, blind people, and break the law. Regardless of how ridiculous the law is or that the chance of being caught and ticketed is ridiculously low, you're still telling people to do illegal ****. Way to go
11-02-08, 03:59 PM
#41
What happened to the good old days on this forum, when newbs and ricers just wanted flush-mount light kits for their FC's?? Now every goddamn JDM fanboy wants HID's instead. I say buy some new sealed beam housings, and if you want more light add some OEM fogs.
11-02-08, 06:18 PM
#42
No money. No love.
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: SACRAMENTO
Posts: 2,807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ehh yeah I've been on the forums for a good 4 years now and I've seen too many people jumping on the HID bandwagon and everyone says "Yeah man just grab those H4 ebay housings, the H4 HIDs fit in there fine and work great!" Telling people that illegal light setups that DO blind others (Regardless of what you say I once tried the HID in: ebay, some euro lense, and some phiaa ones too as well as seeing everyone else try different combinations and they ALL DON'T WORK)
Sure everyone has something illegal on their car, but guess what? My intake doesn't kill people or put them in a dangerous position...There are plenty of honda guys and such in my town that don't put HIDs in housings built for them and blind the **** out of me when I'm driving the opposite direction..best course of action is to look at the white line on the right side of the road, but I shouldn't have to and that does put me at risk since I can't see straight ahead as well for anything in the road. That is why people like TTT act like ******** to anyone who supports blinding the hell out of other drivers and telling newer members that it works.
EDIT: Learn a little. Read this. I only skimmed it, but it has plenty of pictures or what correct cutoff is in housings made for HIDs then it has pictures of other people who think their beam patterns are "dope", but actually light leaks from the cutoff and produces a nice blinding light in oncoming traffics face.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...d.php?p=214743
Sure everyone has something illegal on their car, but guess what? My intake doesn't kill people or put them in a dangerous position...There are plenty of honda guys and such in my town that don't put HIDs in housings built for them and blind the **** out of me when I'm driving the opposite direction..best course of action is to look at the white line on the right side of the road, but I shouldn't have to and that does put me at risk since I can't see straight ahead as well for anything in the road. That is why people like TTT act like ******** to anyone who supports blinding the hell out of other drivers and telling newer members that it works.
EDIT: Learn a little. Read this. I only skimmed it, but it has plenty of pictures or what correct cutoff is in housings made for HIDs then it has pictures of other people who think their beam patterns are "dope", but actually light leaks from the cutoff and produces a nice blinding light in oncoming traffics face.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...d.php?p=214743
Last edited by SmogSUX; 11-02-08 at 06:23 PM.
11-03-08, 11:43 AM
#43
The Ceaseless Discharge
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Metairie, LA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not telling anyone to do something illegal because I don't agree with it being illegal, I'm saying if that's what they want to do then do it. There's no reason to hate. State your opinion then move on with your life. I am here to help people who know less than me and learn from the more knowledgeable. I'm not telling people to be dangerous, or retro-fit illegal mods, I was just saying if that's what he wanted to do then do it. No reason to come off like an *******. I'm also not saying that ebay HIDs and housings are by any means great. All I was saying was in my 318i the HIDs worked well in my M3 projectors. I never once had a complaint from anyone of my friends while driving towards them at all. So again, keep talking down to people if it makes you feel better about yourself. I'm sure everybody on this forum thinks you're a real winner. Best of luck, buddy.
01-11-09, 11:00 PM
#46
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (9)
mopar97, I think you misses the point. HIDs in inappropriate housings are dangerous to everyone. window tint (although it's factory) is really only dangerous for the driver when backing up...at night...near a ditch...with raging angry midgets in it...with sharp pointy sticks...ok, i'm board of this...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
renjiv2
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
57
01-25-24 03:34 AM
FC3S Timmy
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
16
10-03-15 01:08 AM
