Been thinking lately bout this project from turbo selection, to fuel system, and standalone.
I was originally planning to get a GT35R turbo kit from aspec, Haltech E8 (more aux input and output, and reduce the problem of having a triggering problem like the E6X.) 750cc primaries (switching my current secondaries injector over to primaries), 1600cc Secondaries, maybe a SS fuel line systems, aeromotive FPR, Nippon Denso fuel pump.
But i have few question question about fuel maps and the haltech E8 for S4 FC and such.

 

oops left out the question!
The question is, I want to keep my AC and PS, but wont the FMIC get in the way? Also Doesnt goin standalone require to disable your AC and heater. Another thing is boost controller with haltech, and wideband o2 wire up with Haltech E8. Finally Im not sure should i get the Full Haltech Package from Speedmachine or get the Flying lead kit for the E8.

 

You don`t have to sacrifice your A/C when going standalone. I run a Megasquirt in my `86 GXL and the A/C works just fine. You have to jumper two wires together at the factory ECU plug is all. The heat will not be affected by going standalone so you should not have to make any mods that I`m aware of.

Check the FSM pages 4A-30, 31 and 32. They show each pin number on the ECU and its connector and give a detailed description of what each connection does. You jumper wires at ECU pins 1E and 1F to get A/C operation when the factory ECU is not being used. Since you are going Haltec just locate the wires that go to those pins and connect them together.

Heres a link to the FSM;
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf
You need to download a copy and put it on disc. You will be able to answer almost all questions by reading up on it.

One thing, If you have done away with the BAC valve the idle will not increase when the A/C is turned on. If the engine stalls you may have to set the idle higher manually on the throttle body, I did.

 

Flying lead means you will have to wire everything yourself, a terminated harness has the majority of the wiring all done, but the lengths are not going to be perfect( longer than needed).

We also make single turbo systems for the FC, we can help set you up with something suited to your needs.

 

I already got a quote from Aspec for the gt35r turbo kit, including dp, wastegate, manifold. I know fly lead lead doesnt have the terminal wired up because, im not sure will the terminated kit is gonna be long enough.
oops i forgot about that! I have that pics on my computer not on my laptop. thanks for the reminder of the ECU pin out.

 

Also how i do control my boost between low and high boost? is it better to buy Haltech BoostController soleniod with haltech or buy a seperate boost controller like apexi AVCR, or HKS EVC, or Greddy Profec boost controller?

 

Boost controller. Get a standalone controller as they are generally a lot better then those built into the standalones. Also easier to adjust...

 

thanks, that helped alot!

 

I have another question about FMIC. Which FMIC would fit the GT35R ?? I know the greddy V FMIC is for the stock turbos, greddy R FMIC (im not sure about), and Greddy 3 Row FMIC. What would guys suggest ?

I have another question to ask before I put on my Greddy FMIC. I want to keep my A/C, but wouldnt the A/C cause an overheating problem / issue?

 

Nothing will fit the GT35 so you will need to fabricate a new turbo outlet pipe.

I've seen overheating issues with A/C and the Greddy front mount before. Make sure the undertray is in good shape and installed, and make sure the fan works properly.

 

Which fan do you mean the clutch fan or the a/c condenser fan? Also I forgot to mention that I have an Koyo Radiator install, will that help?
thanks once again.

 

Get a boost solenoid, and get a trim module. Will save you quite a bit over a stand alone boost controller, and you can set the trim module to anything you want to. When tuning the car, mark the trim module where each preset boost level is that you want, and you are set.

For FMIC, I tried the GReddy unit before, and had overheating without A/C and all other components working correctly on a stock clutch fan. I went with a custom setup and an intercooler core that actually fit the front opening of the bumper and not half way up the bumper where air didn't flow, and overheating was gone. The koyo will help, but I had a Ron Davis double pass unit and I still had problems.

Just my $.02

 

alrite thnx.

 

well i just got my greddy IC kit. well i have talk to a few greddy FMIC owners with FC. They did not have over heating issue but they are running it without a/c. Im not sure will weather/ climate will make a difference.

Also will a bumper with bigger opening help?

 

anyone know?