Fastest time with 13B none turbo
12-09-03, 05:31 PM
#1
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Fastest time with 13B none turbo
Just out of morbid quriosity, I would like to see who has the fastest time with a 13b none turbo, and what mods are you useing?
12-09-03, 05:35 PM
#2
88 GTU
17.1!!!!! CS single catback and stock manifold to cat.
Custom cold air box with ebay air filter and adapter.
82k on the clock when it did that. 102k it blew a coolant seal.
BTW my 88 SE ran a 17.4 with a better 60ft so I know I can get a 17.00 or 16.9 if I tried harder.
I've got the crappy NA's though.
The GTU is about to be a TII conversion so would that counts till? hehehe
17.1!!!!! CS single catback and stock manifold to cat.
Custom cold air box with ebay air filter and adapter.
82k on the clock when it did that. 102k it blew a coolant seal.
BTW my 88 SE ran a 17.4 with a better 60ft so I know I can get a 17.00 or 16.9 if I tried harder.
I've got the crappy NA's though.
The GTU is about to be a TII conversion so would that counts till? hehehe
12-10-03, 12:50 AM
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Fastest non-PP, non-BP N/A Rotary is on TeamFC3S. He's running mid-13's and getting deeper if I recall.
Most people who get into N/A performance will never get past 14's though.
Most people who get into N/A performance will never get past 14's though.
12-10-03, 06:09 AM
#7
Originally posted by Liquid Anarchy
Fastest non-PP, non-BP N/A Rotary is on TeamFC3S. He's running mid-13's and getting deeper if I recall.
Most people who get into N/A performance will never get past 14's though.
Fastest non-PP, non-BP N/A Rotary is on TeamFC3S. He's running mid-13's and getting deeper if I recall.
Most people who get into N/A performance will never get past 14's though.
It cost about the same as the cost of modyfing a turbo FC (while keeping reliability, gas economy, etc).
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12-10-03, 06:37 AM
#8
"Agree!
It cost about the same as the cost of modyfing a turbo FC (while keeping reliability, gas economy, etc)."
Wrong! the money you have to spend to get a t2 into the 14's compared to a NA will be much much cheaper to build the t2. Yeah more reliable and better gas mileage as well.
It cost about the same as the cost of modyfing a turbo FC (while keeping reliability, gas economy, etc)."
Wrong! the money you have to spend to get a t2 into the 14's compared to a NA will be much much cheaper to build the t2. Yeah more reliable and better gas mileage as well.
12-10-03, 07:03 AM
#10
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15.1 on1/4 mile
Only one run though, the rest of the night it goes downhill due to heat
using:
CAI
Borla Headers and Catback
Hyflow Cat
Mod chip on computer
ported Throttle body
Tokei Driveshaft
17 inch Racing Harts w/ Falkens
High Performance (generic) Fan replaced stock. (generally a bad Idea)
Weight reducton (backyard style)
Aluminum Radiator
Tornados cant forget them, I have to in the CAI.
And Thats it for 1/4 mile mods I use it more for circuit and my suspension is beefed up.
using:
CAI
Borla Headers and Catback
Hyflow Cat
Mod chip on computer
ported Throttle body
Tokei Driveshaft
17 inch Racing Harts w/ Falkens
High Performance (generic) Fan replaced stock. (generally a bad Idea)
Weight reducton (backyard style)
Aluminum Radiator
Tornados cant forget them, I have to in the CAI.
And Thats it for 1/4 mile mods I use it more for circuit and my suspension is beefed up.
12-10-03, 07:26 AM
#11
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15.1 in my old 89 GTU... I hade a complete RB N/A kit, a K&N, a custom made headlight cover (now on my TII)....a cold air box (Now on my TII)...an ACT Street Strip...and I had the 6-ports set to open at 5K with a summit RPM Switch.
THe car ran high 16's stock.... High 15's with the RB exhaust and stock air system..... mid 15's with the cold air box and ACT Clutch, and I got two runs at 15.1x the last night i had it when i put the air scoop headlight cover on it.. it was about 72 degrees with low humidity that night.
Funny, when I first got my TII and did the exhaust... the best i could do with it was 14.8.. cause the clutch was shot and i couldn't launch or flat shift, I can't wait for the strip to open again now that its getting worked over!!)
THe car ran high 16's stock.... High 15's with the RB exhaust and stock air system..... mid 15's with the cold air box and ACT Clutch, and I got two runs at 15.1x the last night i had it when i put the air scoop headlight cover on it.. it was about 72 degrees with low humidity that night.
Funny, when I first got my TII and did the exhaust... the best i could do with it was 14.8.. cause the clutch was shot and i couldn't launch or flat shift, I can't wait for the strip to open again now that its getting worked over!!)
12-17-03, 02:24 PM
#12
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At the risk of sounding like a complete amature, what do you mean by flat shifting? Is that where you don't use the clutch and just slam it into gear. If so isn't that extremley bad for the trany?
12-17-03, 02:54 PM
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i took a z06 in a 60ft time when my car was running 18.1 in the 1/4th b4 any mods. i had a 564reaction time and the vette had a 1.120 reaction time, so its not hard to see how i got a better 60ft time 
.
.
12-17-03, 03:11 PM
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reaction time has nothing to do with 60' times. The timer doesnt start until you move anyways, you could sit there all day. The r/t would be ****, but the 60' time is the same. And your r/t is only good because you drive an auto. See the light, step on the gas. No big deal.
12-17-03, 03:26 PM
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its hard timing a perfect start, when it was stock i had to wait till the 2nd light left and b4 the 3rd light went on, theres less than a .01 of a second in there but i nailed it on the head twice.
also the driver couldnt drive worth a damn, on the cone course he took out every cone there.
still was funny seeing his car 30 car lenghts away once he hit 4th.
also the driver couldnt drive worth a damn, on the cone course he took out every cone there.
still was funny seeing his car 30 car lenghts away once he hit 4th.
Last edited by Mephis; 12-17-03 at 03:28 PM.
12-17-03, 03:28 PM
#17
Originally posted by Mephis
i took a z06 in a 60ft time when my car was running 18.1 in the 1/4th b4 any mods. i had a 564reaction time and the vette had a 1.120 reaction time, so its not hard to see how i got a better 60ft time.
i took a z06 in a 60ft time when my car was running 18.1 in the 1/4th b4 any mods. i had a 564reaction time and the vette had a 1.120 reaction time, so its not hard to see how i got a better 60ft time
.
12-17-03, 07:37 PM
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i got a 14.7 once, street legal fullbodied FC on street tires and stock clutch.. no LSD
Yes GTUsPa runs low 13s in his GTUs, but his car is setup for drag only. I believe GLHS runs low 14s in his stock port n/a, but from what Ive heard its stripped down to scrap metal, not very streetable IMO.
its hard timing a perfect start, when it was stock i had to wait till the 2nd light left and b4 the 3rd light went on, theres less than a .01 of a second in there but i nailed it on the head twice.
12-19-03, 12:39 PM
#23
Originally posted by Bukwild
"Agree!
It cost about the same as the cost of modyfing a turbo FC (while keeping reliability, gas economy, etc)."
Wrong! the money you have to spend to get a t2 into the 14's compared to a NA will be much much cheaper to build the t2. Yeah more reliable and better gas mileage as well.
"Agree!
It cost about the same as the cost of modyfing a turbo FC (while keeping reliability, gas economy, etc)."
Wrong! the money you have to spend to get a t2 into the 14's compared to a NA will be much much cheaper to build the t2. Yeah more reliable and better gas mileage as well.
IT all depends, its easy to extract power out of a 13bt, however it is just as easy to blow it off. In order to have a GOOD, RELIABLE, FAST 13bt cost money. With that being said, a 13B NA can be build to run high 13's on a 2nd gen NA. Hell I have seen 1st gen run l12's on pure NA.
Last edited by KNONFS; 12-19-03 at 12:42 PM.
12-19-03, 01:18 PM
#24
i ran a 9.8 @71 in the 1/8th and a 15.5 @88 in the 1/4 (same run) with a 2.23 60ft.
my mods:
cone filter
catback exhaust (and gutted cats)
lightly ported LIM (didnt really do much)
i have FD wheels so that probably helps a little, open diff (still does a decent job) but my car is pretty much stock. with an safc and header i was gonna try for a 14.9, but my oil control ring is fuxored so im gonna wait for a rebuild before i go back to the track. i think the most important thing the NA guys need to worry about is make sure your 6ports are functioning properly -opening at 3800rpms- and make SURE your VDI works (if you have a series5) those two things make a huge difference. i went from running 11's in the 1/8th mile to running 9's just because of my 6ports sticking and VDI not functioning... just a little food for thought.
my mods:
cone filter
catback exhaust (and gutted cats)
lightly ported LIM (didnt really do much)
i have FD wheels so that probably helps a little, open diff (still does a decent job) but my car is pretty much stock. with an safc and header i was gonna try for a 14.9, but my oil control ring is fuxored so im gonna wait for a rebuild before i go back to the track. i think the most important thing the NA guys need to worry about is make sure your 6ports are functioning properly -opening at 3800rpms- and make SURE your VDI works (if you have a series5) those two things make a huge difference. i went from running 11's in the 1/8th mile to running 9's just because of my 6ports sticking and VDI not functioning... just a little food for thought.
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