Personally I think a V8 is more reliable, powerful, fuel efficient (hwy) and well we see how American car companies care about the environment so what we do as individuals won't matter. Really though I am in the same kind of dilema, I would love to try out the rotary but for the money I can go V8 and be better off. Sorry, I just crusied TC and watched some vids, I need to change my shorts now.

 

a turbo rotary is more fuel efficient than an n/a

lol, alright i won't post any more about turbos

 

 

why isent bridge porting classified as street legal???

i thought bridge was just as drivable as street porting, but faster

 

Bridge porting sacrifices drivability, and I think it might be worse on an NA. They can have part-throttle issues and have less low end power, which is what you need on a street car. They can be driven on the street, just not as easily.

 

Streetport with BP aux. Ill let you know how it works out when I get the fueling figured out. Should be dyno'ing on a stock exhaust and intake in the next few weeks.


BC

 

How much should that boost it?

 

I know you guys wont believe me but my NA just ran even twice with my buddies gs-t pushing 15psi.

 

What you got on it??

 

no traction...i raced for fun, a FWD TSI, and he spun threw second and still took me..he was pushin 12 psi.

 

Well that's because he can't drive.

 

maybe i should have ported it...


get a damn video camera so we can see these runs and the looks on people's faces, lol.

 

Havent the slightest clue. I cant even tell you the butt dyno yet because the engine isnt finished with break it. I tapped 6000 rpms once since I got the car and it fell on its face because the N/A pump wasnt keeping up.

Im getting a TII pump in the mail in a few days, then I have to get some 550cc secondaries, a SAFC and then install all that stuff. Then its off to the dyno to get the SAFC tuned. It will be tuned on a stock exhaust, hopefully with a cat, and stock intake. After I have a baseline, just to show everyone for reference sake, I will start in on the exhaust. I just want a straight baseline to show simply what the porting did, but unfortunately it will HAVE to be done with a TII pump, 550cc secondaries and a SAFC.


BC

 

i think my car has about 160+whp , if i got the safc i would be able to get more decent power tuned on a dyno with a wideband

why do people upgrade the fuel system on there na rx7 when more fuel is not needed ? Because i dont think there any power increases from this, or any extra performance. Stock fuel system can handle plenty of power my car has more mods than yours and i have no need for upgrading it , i have stock fuel system , got the injectors cleaned / flow tested tho.

My mod list is as follows -

mild streetport, racing beat header, borla catback exhaust, straight pipe no cat, kn intake, corksport intake kit, centerforce dual friction clutch, racing beat lightweight steel flywheel,front strut bar, dtss eliminators, mazdaspeed motormounts and tranny mounts, removed ac, ps, airpump and all emissions. Removed 5/6 ports and actuators,ported throttlebody and throttlebody mod

 

you ever seen the flow rate differences between a streetport and a bridgeport?

didn't think so.


i am just curious as to whether it will affect emissions though, it shouldn't in theory. in most cases also most bridgeports cannot be used in conjunction with the stock ECU because the requirements are far out of it's stock map range handling abilities even with a piggyback.

 

oh i see, i thought he was on a stock engine

 

The mods the change that need for fuel on an NA and pretty porting and, well, porting. Other things might change it slightly, but not a whole lot. The bridge adds a subsntial amount of air, definately enough to warrant more fuel. Its possible you could just raise the level with an safc, but for the price of 2 injectors and a turbo pump, its better to just do it right in the first place.

 

soo tell me whats the point of that fuel/air adjustment screw next to the atmospheric pressure sensor for? i set mine too full lean after i advansed my timing.

yeah ben the car is way stronger than i though it would be..but its all in the weight reduction ya know soo i gotta 100$ anyone wanna sell me there cam?

 

that screw is just for setting the idle mixture, mainly for helping the car pass emissions.

i already knew it was in the weight reduction but still want some videos

 

hehe you know when i get one ill be toting it at ur meets being all proud an ****!

 

i think that screw on my car is broken, the one youre talking about, i turn it either way and it does nothingto the idle even if i keep turning it. it keeps on turning and turning either way and no affect. if it is bad (which i am thinking it is) , what does that do ( im assuming its making me run way more rich)

 

i know i got mad one time and broke mine which led to a vacumm leak and i had to go to the junk yard and get another.,

 

I had a setup like that. And I had- a full racing beat exhaust, haltech, ported tb, ported manifolds, no emissions (no ps or a/c either), cai, al flywheel, race clutch, fully gutted too. Super fun for a na! I just loved pegging that tach Too bad it ate a coolant seal after 5k miles. Oh well, i'm still na just not rotary anymore

 

what caused it to eat the coolant seals ? was it high milage engine ?

 

So in your opinion you feel I should go standalone from the get go? I have an S5, so to my understanding that means peace out OMP, hello pre-mix. If I can avoid doing that I would like to. Im hoping Rtek will figure out the S5 OMP with 2.0, but Im not holding my breath. Im hoping I can just use the SAFC since im not going full or Half BP, but just Aux... Once someone figures out the S5 OMP with a standalone I will be much more likely to go that route.


BC