I think I have a misaligned fast idle cam

Refer to pic for help, but I believe I need to adjust it to proper positioning, if anyone could help I would appreciate it.

 

sorry won't let me add pic after for some reaosn so here is pic mentioned before.

Ok correction, and this is probably need to know kinda stuff... I replaced the thermo wax with a brand new one when I rebuild the motor... And on my fast idle cam there are three marks, one at the almost very top, and then the 2 near the bottom. I think that I should have adjusted the fast idle cam when I had replace the thermo wax and so I am not rolling off the cam at all when I get to normal operating temps.

 

When car is up to operating temp check and see if in fact the fast idle cam is being utilized, or it's something else...........Or have you already done this, and know for a fact that the fast idle cam is causing the high idle?

 

I checked the fast ifle cam when the car is warmed up and it is still above the 32F mark on the rocker. Almost 3mm above it on the alignment marks.

 

Try this. Take the TB out of the car (only takes 5 minutes). Connect a hose and funnel to TB and pour boiling water thru it. You'll be able to see the thermo and cam move and be able to adjust it alot easier. Its easier seeing the marks this way vs trying to adjust it on the car. I had to adjust mine quite a bit.

 

take the throttle body out? I can't because the fuel rail is right there and it won't go past the edge of the studs without stopping on the fuel rail. unless you mean the UIM... or you can tell me how to get the TB past the fuel rail.

Also, my TB was not tightened at all I don't think when it was put on, so I wonder if that had something to do with it as well?

 

ok I was wrong .. it was the water thermo vavle I had replaced, but I know the FIC is still f'd up and I need to adjust it... why does the screw have to be upside down???

 

Am I close to where I need to be on the adjustment of the FIC now? and is it bad I adjusted the wrong screw (It was first thing in the morning)?

 

This is no rocket science. Is the came engaged when the car is cold to give you the 1500 RPM idle? Then when the car is up to operating temp has the idle dropped to 750 RPM and the cam has moved to the warm (77 degree) position? If yes, then it's fine.

 

no the cam was still much above the 77F spot. In the book it only shows 2 lines and on the cam there are actually 3 lines. so which do I align it to when I have the throttle of the car to align the cam and the butterfly?

The idle would only stay around 1500 rpms even when the car was warm. and would never drop to 750 by itself.

 

When the car is fully warmed up, it sould be at the 77 degree mark as I recall. If it is staying around 1500 RPM then are you sure the thermowax is moving properly?

 

I could see it move a little on the roller for the cam, but it wasn't moving all the way. I just put it back together so we shall see, once the thread sealant is setup on the oil cooler drain plug that is.

 

[QUOTE=NeCr0mStR]take the throttle body out? I can't because the fuel rail is right there and it won't go past the edge of the studs without stopping on the fuel rail. unless you mean the UIM... or you can tell me how to get the TB past the fuel rail.

You can take it out. You'll have to take the vac hose from the metal bracket you pointed at and then bend the braket so you can get the TB out. Nothing major. I adjusted the roller so it barely touched the cam when it was hot. The screw you adjust is the one that touches the thermo plunger.

 

I adjusted the screw and reset the primary throttle butterfly and I am still getting high idle, I don't know if the thermo wax is working or not I am going to make a light tester for TPS and see what is going on there.

 

OK, so I grounded the green test connector and was testing the TPS per instruction on a web page and found I have 2 codes comming up, I never thought to look because there was no check engine light. These codes are No.2 Mass Airflow sensor and No.8 Crank Angle Sensor (Ne signal) so I check the continuity of the Ne per FSM and I got within specs, I need to check continuity back to the ECU. Could this be the cause of what sounded like a tick or a knock coming from the top of the engine?

On a side not I was able to confirm that indeed the thermo wax moves and the FIC was moving...

With the bad MAF do I need to replace? can anyone tell me how to test it? I want to avoid replacement if possible since its $220 for a new one. Or I could go cold air intake... but I don't know what to do with the MAF plug if I go this route.

any help is much appreciated as always
James

 

ok I rolled off the FIC and it dropped for RPM finally... WOOO HOOO

so now I just have an oil leak to fix which any help with that would be splendid... the bottom drain plug on the oil cooler is leaking, I don't know why... I have replaced the crush washer with a new one I am going to try again and use a copper one instead and also try a permatex thread sealant too. any help on torque specs would be great since the FSM has none.