I had my problem licked. I hooked up my secondaries to see if they were getting any signal. Turned out that one's injector wires had come disconnected from its butt-splice (took out the butt splice and just soldered it), and the other injector does in fact have a bad connector (part is broken off the side). So, one wasn't firind and the other was getting intermittent signal. So, I reconnected one wire and was going to wait until tomorrow to get a new connector. The car was running like a champ, everything going to be done by tomorrow. But then, it happened.

I was just driving along, then all of a sudden, I lost all pressure behind the clutch pedal. Unfortunately I was at a stop light in a busy intersection, and the car was stuck in first. So my engine slowly died as I wondered wtf happened. When the light changed for me, I said, "**** it, I'm not staying here," and just started the car in gear (!!!), got moving, slotted it into second, and limped home at 3500rpm. Fan-tastic.

Long story short, I'm pretty sure I just lost my clutch hydraulics. So my question (hopefully mu last for a while) is: Did I lose my clutch line, or did I lose my entire clutch hydraulics system? Or will I not know until I take a look at it?

It's strange, because I could put it in neutral, and I managed to shift into second without hearing any grinding...

Oh well, I guess my car will never run and you guys will never get a dyno graph...

 

I just had to replace my rubber clutch line for the hydraulic system. Had similar problems, the rubber line was cracked and fluid was just pouring onto my engine instead of through the line. Check the line and the fluid level, if the fluid is really low then its probably just that line. If it's that line then you'll probably be able to tell since there will be fluid near it. It's a simple fix, took like 10 min once I had the part. Filled the fluid back up and everything was good.

 

Good to know. It's just really frustrating because my car was going to be done, finally, tomorrow. But then this happened. Oh well, at least I got to see ~4000rpm before this **** happened (btw the supercharger starts sounding INSANE once you make it past 4000rpm).

 

Haha, you don't have to complain to me man.

Car gets done being rebuilt by me has tons of heater core problems coolant all over the interior.

Finally get time to fix it, pull dash/carpet/etc get carpet cleaned and new heater core ordered.

Uh oh time for midterms in college.

Heater core in but all my wiring is dicked.

Wiring finally fixed car back together.

Start it up, drive, clutch line broken! Can't even get it into gear.

Clutch line fixed, drive it to school, come home, rear brake pads shot! Bad noises probably gonna hafta replace my rotors.

That's where I stand at this point, so I feel your pain. I rebuilt my engine in sept and I barely have 1100 miles on it now, I should be long done, but thanks to all these problems I'm not.

 

did u check your fluid and try pumping the clutch to see if you can get some pressure back, its probley stuck on the floor so your gonna have to use your hands

 

I got some pressure back, but then lost it. It's just that the line burst, nothing more, thankfully. So it's just a little tranny oil, an $18 line from Mazdatrix, and a few more days. My dyno tuning appointment is next Friday, so hopefully this time the car will be able to make it there and actually get tuned.

 

It's best to replace everything at the same time, because, once you replace on thing, the other will go. And they're not that expensive so it's not too big of a deal. Just find the source of the fluid and that should pretty much explain whats wrong, wether it be in the rubber boot on the slave cylinder, the rubber line, or if fluid is leaking off the back of the master. How did it feel when you had it running? I just finished my setup, using an s-ported eaton m90, it's not a very good design (since i use a FMIC), but I get about 9psi all the way through the band, and that's at about 80% of the chargers speed (gotta get some more pulleys!) Too bad it had to snow, and now the cars garaged.

 

The car wasn't 100%, but good God it hauled ***. It spun the tires on a flat dry road in first gear (I mean these are Toyos, 225s!). So I have no doubt that once I sort through all this crap, the car will be significantly faster. Full boost actually came around 3500. From 2000-3500 it builds from 4psi to 8psi, so you still get that great sensation of the power ramping up. Plus, the sound of the thing is insane.

 

An auto parts store should be able to order it for you for cheaper from like TRW or something.

And what do you mean tranny oil? For the clutch fluid resevoir? I hope you mean brake fluid.

 

Yeah, give me a break, i just finished writing my life away in my college apps. I haven't slept in two days, for the love of God.

 

Yeah, mine is quite noisey, but I get 9psi at 1200rpm, hehe. Spinning the tires is pretty easy, especially in first, don't really need the charger for that, getting em to spin in 3rd is a good indicator

 

Hahahahaha, the Camden has so much internal friction that it can't really make any extra power at 1200rpm. In fact that's where I idle. Anything above 2000rpm is fair game, though.

 

Wtf dude, calm the eff down. I wasn't trying to be rude or come across badly, I was making sure you knew that it was supposed to be brake fluid... Christ almighty, would you rather I not saying anything when you are wrong and "hope" you just made a typo or something? Maybe I should just keep my mouth shut.

And cry me a river, I have finals in 2 weeks for law and managerial accounting while trying to apply to the Business school and still pull off 3.7's or higher in both those classes while getting about 3 hrs of sleep a night at most. Not trying to be rude, never was, but I don't need you biting my head off for trying to help...

/end vent

 

Maybe I should have added some j/k's and winky faces in there. I was just joshin', man, I'm sorry if that came out wrong, which it obviously did.

 

Take it easy their dubs, I don't think he was meaning to sound like an ***, just saying doh i screwed up and here's why. My car happily idles at 800rpm still, but I've also got a functional bypass so it doesn't require much work to spin the thing in a vacuum.