Tech_Greek

Mike said he replaced the spark plugs and wires before I got the car...

iceblue

25tq in ft pounds and I think 30hp from vtech on a s2k. Vtech should be at 6,200 rpm but I may be wrong on when it kicks in I just cant remember. If you ever drive one properly you will understand. If you do a 1 through 4th gear pull properly from the time you leave the line the car will never drop out of vtech.

And you totaly missed the point of my fly by comment, like left field missed. I was saying that 25mph is so minute that it is not a race to be able to base anything on, it lasts like what 5 seconds. Go run one from 20mph in 1st gear to 120mph and see what the outcome is then.

iceblue

Go unplug your T coil pack. You will lose like 2hp. The design is not there to be like a 4cylinder engin that requires it to fire. All it is doing is helping compleat a good burn through the longated combustion chamber. In sens of runing a + split at low rpm in a boosted engin can help spool. Why? Well igniting the T just slightly first can force the fuel into the leading section and with the rotor rotating into it will cause a betor combustion strenth from the L allowing it to spool quickly. Only in low RPM, this is bad if you rev up with this timing curve. Just to serve as a idea of why there is a L and a T and how they could help but not realy hurt you.

From factory the T ignites -15 ATDC from the L plug. Why did Mazda do this? Well it does help HP by about 2hp but the longated combustion chamber leaves some extra raw fuel in the T are as a little pocket we could say. This is bad for emissions and causes a bad burn all together. So adding a T will help reduce this carectoristic of a rotary combustion design. Alot of Mazda race motors have 3 plugs per rotor. Food for thought.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

these cars "stock" lose steam at 125 anyway... were you in 4th or 5th when you were going 125??? 5th is too long in these cars, to pull at that speed, and in 4th u will be past 7000, and your hp is starting to drop off... so your losing pull

Tech_Greek

http://videos.streetfire.net/Player....4F6A&kw=11&p=0

Tech_Greek

That was from 0-120 MPH, I shifted at 7k rpm because it feels like there is almost half maybe a 1/4 of the power there at 7-8k rpm...

BlueS5

What about the S5's? It seems to feel like there's still power there, at least to me when I drive mine....

Tech_Greek

Mine is a S5, with a mazda reman engine it.

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

I was having a similar problem, but it ended up being a boost leak...obviously not ur problem. I would check your aux ports and try gutting or replacing the cat. Also the fuel filter..

Sgt. Pepper

Hah, I love the comment on the video, "...and was still only in fourth gear...got to love the rotary!"
Because when you shift into fith it will only slow down

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

What N/A FC beating a S2000? Longshot but maybe someone messed with the drive and gear ratios lol

importsown

lets get this straight. N/A's are quick, not fast. TIIs arent quick but they are fast. Stoplight to next stoplight i would imagine an N/A would beat a turbo. My S4 N/A had 40k KM on a mazda reman, and the 6PI was clogged because the previous owner straight piped the exhaust and didnt know about the 6PI. i opened it up and it made a huge difference. it could be that, easy to check too. or it could be clogged cat, clogged fuel filter, or air filter. there could also be an intake leak between the manifold and the AFM, causing the AFM to be way out. maybe thats why it gets so rich up top. mine idles rich but thats about it, stock w/ straight pipe to Y then oem type mufflers.