Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Ok so a little bit ago I left work like normal. Walked out to my car, unlocked the door, and the factory alarm went off. Thing is... The alarm has never worked before. Ever since I bought the car a few years ago. Just totally out of nowhere. So I had no idea what to do, because I've never had to deal with it before. I just disconnected the battery for a second and it stopped. I got home 5 minutes ago and repeated my steps: nothing happened. It really freaked me out. Earlier yesterday I repaired all my engine grounds, maybe that did something... weird. My question is, how do I restore full functionality to the alarm? My security light does not light up when I lock the doors anymore. It used to, but the alarm never worked. I'm just looking for things to check, things to replace. My door jamb switches are gone, I'm guessing those are important. I have replacements coming any damn day now. Thanks for any help.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Hang on...I'll answer your question in a bit...

To arm, the alarm has to sense the car having everything closed, and the doors locked. The key thing is, the last access point has to be closed without a key. Usually, this happens as you lock your door from the inside, and close the door. As you lock your door, the system should beep. Now it gets a little weird. If lets say your doors are already locked and you had the hatch or hood open, when you close these, the last will cause the system to beep (arm).

It is key that the all the hood, trunk, and door latch switches work. The light should turn on continuously, then after the last door is locked, it should flash for a while, then flash faster, and then go out. When it goes out, the system is armed (not very logical on the part of Mazda).

When getting back to your car, you go unlock the doors. The lock cylinders turn and hit a switch that tells the alarm you have a key, and didn't just reach in and use the inside unlock buttons.

I believe you may not have closed this switch with your key (switch fault, or not turned the key all the way because of linkage) and that triggered the alarm. To shut it off, just put the key in the ignition and turn ign. on.

Jpk3200

Checked the bulb?

Do you get any beeps when you lock the last door from the inside? If so, is it 1 single beep, or a continuous stream of beeps?

I'm assuming you know how to arm it, and that you have the wiring diagrams. If push comes to shove, check all the door/hood/hatch switches one by one. It's what I had to do, and I still don't have the thing working 100% of the time. My problem is getting the continuous stream of beeps (which is is not arming the vehicle). I believe the culprit is a faulty passenger lock switch from the inside. It will arm about 70% of the time.

Yeah I would say that those are probably pretty important, since they indicate that only one door is still open while trying to arm the system.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

BTW, see if the security light lights up when you use the key on either door (whether system armed or not). And as said, make sure the light itself is fine.

And I may have erred a bit on how the light operates. It should stay on for a bunch of seconds, then flash quickly for about 5 seconds, then go off and the system is armed. If you interrupt this sequence, the system will not arm. I can check the FSM if you want (owner's manual should have it too).

Jpk3200

pfsantos is right. Once you lock the last door, you should hear a beep, and the security light will come on and remain on. When you close that last door (with the handle pulled up to prevent from unlocking itself), the light remains solid for about 10 seconds or so. Then it flashes for 3-4 seconds and you hear a final beep. The light goes off and flashes once every 5 seconds or so.

I seem to be the only one that has the problem with the occasional "multiple beep" syndrome. You are listening for 1 beep only while locking the last door.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Whats this about the hood? How does the system sense the hood is closed? I hope it's not in the hood latch. I had someone back over the front end of my car a few years ago and smashed it all to hell. Instead of searching for a replacement I put hood pins in. So I'm not sure on how thats working...

Jpk3200

When it senses a ground from the hood switch.

It is.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Haha... well... I'll figure out something then. So when the hood is grounded (closed) The system gets the ok to arm. I think I can work with that. Also I had another question to throw out there. I was installing the new door jamb switches, and I had to reach behind the switch to thread one of the wires through. The driver's side door switch had another gray wire spliced into it. I followed it all the way under the dash. It led to a cluster of wires with a plug and an inline fuse, but nothing attached to it.



The remains of an aftermarket alarm maybe? Weird find.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Ok... I'm able to set the alarm, and it goes off if I unlock the door without the key. Great. But it doesn't turn off when I put the key in... So I have to disconnect the battery...

Jpk3200

Which door did you try? Either door cylinder should disarm it. Also the hatch should disarm it. Note that putting the key in the ignition will not disarm it.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Oh.. I tried the ignition. If I unlock the drivers door with the key the alarm still goes off. I didn't try the passenger door. I just got off work and its 4:30am so I don't think I'm gonna test it right at the moment...

AntonAU

on the other side of this equation there has to be an opposite to balance it.. how do i remove this factory stuff, as i have aftermarket alarm which is required by law, and i lock the doors with central locking remote, and when i unlock car and open door it goes off. any help would be great.

Icemark

Your installer did not install the aftermarket alarm correctly.

He should have "T"ed off the unlock output wire from the aftermarket alarm with a IN4004 Diode (cathode or bar of the diode facing the unlock output wire from the aftermarket alarm), and connected the Anode (no bar side) to the Green/Black disarm wire coming in from the drivers door (or at the factory alarm).

That disarms the factory alarm every time you unlock with the aftermarket remote system.

AntonAU

any ideas on how i can remove or disable it myself easily? as he will recharge me because hes a Pr**k

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Easiest I can think of is to unplug one of the door lock button switches behind the door trim. It will not arm if it thinks one of the doors are unlocked. Note I am *not* talking about the cylinder switches.

Icemark

Tell him he didn't install it correctly and make him do it right.

Or go buy a diode and some wire and a couple butt connectors and wire it up yourself.

You want the alarm on the car to protect the car from being stolen... right?

So why would you remove or disable something that prevents the car from being stolen?

I don't get this... Micky Mouse didn't install the alarm correctly.. and now you want to remove the one alarm that was installed correctly???

AntonAU

the law in my state says that a government approved alarm that self arms is what it required to drive a licenced vehicle also insurance wont pay out if you have one, and afaik that mazda one is not governemtn approved.. ill sort it out, but TA

Icemark

The factory alarm self arms if you lock the doors.

AntonAU

its not West AUstralian governement approved, so as far as licencing and insurance is concerned thats all that matters.

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

Thats a very interesting law......Kinda smart

To remove the factory security will require you to dissasemble a good part of the wiring harness if you want it all removed then wire you aftermarket alarm to the hardware in the car. Just use the factory wiring diagram for reference and go from there. It's not that hard. If your alarm never arms maybe it thinks the hood is open since the hood latch switch is probably destroyed. just a thought to keep in mind