faberz

Well just to get everyone a little up to date. I bought a 91 fc3c for $1000. It cost me 100 to tow it here. Now the car is in great condition and has been meticulously kept. The bad thing is it wont start. i believe the engine might be blown and i have no idea what is wrong with it. I tried to do a compression test but failed miserably at doing it. i have a piston compression gauge which i used. I removed the top plug and bottom one at a time but couldn't get a good read because it was hard to screw the gauge in completely any pointers would be appreciated. I have a couple videos of the engine bay and one of the car being cranked. This is going to be an ongoing thread until i manage to get the car running. i will take some pictures of the car tomorrow once i give it a little clean since it was towed in the rain. Hope to hear from you guys and thanks in advance!

This is trying to crank the car:
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This is just the engine bay in general:
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gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

defiantly sounds like its lost compretion on one rotor due to the "lope" when it turns over.

REBUILD TIME!!!

faberz

I figured that would be necessary before i even bought the car, I'm considering throwing in a turbo engine in there if it would be possible to do under 1k if not i might just rebuild it. how much does a rebuild run around?

IaMtHeRuThLeSs1

Rebuilds start at 1k.

You won't be able to do a TII swap for under 1K.

faberz

I started looking on ebay, i see its going to run me a pretty penny. Oh well I might just stick with a rebuild it should last me a good amount of time after the rebuild the body is in great condition in and out.

cmanns

Sounds like the batt is dead to me though and in my experience (sounds like your jumping it using another car) which doesnt work well with a dead batt.

cmanns

The cables on the front drivers side fender are diagnostic cables, the cables on the pass side are for the AAS

thats normal the cars came factory wire'd with everything

Tovock

+1 that is turning over mighty slow. Before you get too crazy try a compression test. when i first got both of mine they were like that, one was great the other just needed a rebuild.

faberz

yea the battery is dead, i was using cables, I didn't want to buy a battery just yet in case i needed a rebuild or new engine. Tovock how much did the rebuild run you? did you do it yourself or did you get it done?

cmanns

Really man that sounds like my car with a dead batt.

Leave your friends truck plugged in like that and let it run for 20 mins or so, have your friend raise the idle too if that produces a higher batt gauge, then it should have decent juice, keep it jumpered and then turn it over

faberz

Tomorrow ill give it a go with a fresh battery and try to give it a correct compression test, if someone can link me to the correct procedure because i read different ways to do it

cmanns

If I recall from what I read a piston tester doesnt read the rotarys right since they go so quick so if i remember you gotta video tape it so you can run it slower and see each pulse thats the correct way for a piston tester

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

Hit me up we can get together and see whats going on...I live in south san diego

teddy

faberz

Crank test #2

I added a new battery, also checked all coolant, oil, gas and parks everything seems fine. i guess its coming down to compression i just can't see to get a good reading on compression test because i can't tighten the valve right on the car, that and i think the engine is blown.

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gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

stop pumping the throttle, its FI, should fire right up or atleast sputter.

on an S5, if you hold the throttle to the floor while cranking, it cuts the fuel to the engine to flood clear the engine.

pull the fan and fan shroud off and crank the ecentric shaft over by hand wiht a ratchet and 17mm socket, crank it 1/2 way each time and each time you should have one pop/chug of the engine indicating that the internals are sealing. there should be a total of 6 pops/chugs there for 3 full rotations of the ecentric shaft.

this isnt a very acurate compretion tests, but it will rule out/in catistrophic failure. (IE bad/broken seal, etc...)

faberz

I'll give this a shot tomorrow, it has a nice sounding pop/chug sound to it when i crank it its consistent atleast to my ears...

is there a way to test the injectors?

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

DONT PUMP THE THROTTLE!!! DONT STEP ON THE GAS WHILE CRANKING.

when you step on the gas while cranking, this disables the injectors. this PREVENTS FUEL GOING INTO THE ENGINE. only do this when you have flooded the car.


crank that **** like 30 times without even touching the throttle.

only on an s5 car though. YOU HAVE AN s5 CAR

faberz

i see, im going to let it crank for a little while right now see if anything happens

Edit:

Nothing happened...

Does anyone know of a procedure to check the fuel delivery?

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

After you cranked it like that you can just pull a plug. If its wet with gas, you're getting some fuel.

You might look at my thread on doing a compression test with a standard piston engine compression tester. Read the whole thing in addition to watching the video as there are some good comments from others.

If you can't get your tester to work, go buy a new one. They're cheap; a lot cheaper than tearing down and rebuilding the engine.

faberz

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we poured some oil in the housing, and added carb cleaner. it fired up but the compression is bad, and we also suspect the gas pump isn't working


p.s. only the first 2 minutes are relevant.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

dude, replace your fuel system. get a new filter, new sock for the pump, and get your injectors cleand.

also, drain the bad gas in there.

btw, you suck at taking videos. buy some better shoes.