Hey guys I'm looking for some ideas rather then spending a bunch of money at a machine shop..
s4 TII rotor housings, 3 studs damaged and have to be replaced. Engine is together, didn't notice until I put it together. Stud removers will not remove. Heavy duty stud remover wouldn't budge. Tried heating a bit with a torch, quenched the stud with water etc. Nothing will work. I called the Machine shop, they said they wouldn't even wanna touch it. So i'm looking for some ideas, whos had this happen in the past and did you get them out?

 

PB blaster, soak for a bit. work the bolt in both directions until it starts to move semi freely and then try to run it out. a little heat from a MAP torch will help some.

worst case grab your ankles, pry on it until it snaps, drill and tap the threads out/heli coil them.

 

Had to do this on my 20B because one was too short to clear the turbo manifold. Threads got chewed up, so it had to come out. All of the following was done under the supervision of Lynn Hanover

Tape over the exhaust port and grind two parallel flat sections on the stud. Exact size doesn't matter too much, just enough to fit a wrench on snugly with enough contact area so it won't slip. Don't grind too much off, or it will weaken the stud and you'll risk breaking it off. I think we used a 3/8" wrench for this.

Soak it in PB Blaster once a day for 2-3 days, then heat it with a torch. Put the wrench on and slip a pipe over it. It should pop loose fairly easy. If not, heat it more and try again.

 

I had two broken off studs in my 20B. They were flush with the aluminum. I was able to drill into the very hard stud material. Then used an easy out. The heat from the drill freed up the stud remnants enough that the easy out got them out.

 

These studs are seized so bad that heat from an oxy/acetylene torch (very carefully) and a heavy duty stud remover didnt budge them.

Thanks for the help guys, I'm gonna try some more soaking and torch work. If I break um screw it yeah Ill drill um out and heli-coil.