Experience with SR motorsports aluminum flywheels?
#1
Experience with SR motorsports aluminum flywheels?
Just wondered if anyone was using a SR motorsports flywheel? Ive heard some have had issues with them, I believe it was not letting the clutch disengauge all the way due to a slightly raised surface?? I cant remember exactly though. I know they are considerably cheaper than an RB aluminum flywheel, and if I hear good things, I can take advantage of their package deal which includes an ACT clutch package as well.
#2
Nurse I need 1300cc's NOW
hahahahah dude ,, thanks to RotoryRessurection,, i got mine to work its a nice kit if you want to put some work into it. i like it . and i bought the same kit . if i had known then what i know now. i wouldnt have had to drop the tranny like 5 times . but its a easy fix. and a good mod for a NA rx7. you loose torque but the the pick up after 3 gs is great .
edit i just noticed you have a turbo. go for it dude ill show you what you have to grind .. its not hard took me about 40 minutes with a drill and a round stone bit
well i cant find a good pic, and all mine from the install got deleted when my comp crashed. but basically if you put the Pressure plate on the flywheel there will be 3 circular cut outs on the flywheel where the PP springs sit. youll notice that the gap between the spring on the PP and the cutout on the flywheel are very close. you have to open that cutout a little bit more. kevin suggested like 1/8 of a inch. thats what i did and now things are cool. i used these round grindind stones from sears. they worked pretty well. but im sure there is something out there that works better. but that should help if not let me know i might be able to help you more . But i also heard that the trubo Flywheels didnt have this problem. not sure about this . but its worth a look
edit i just noticed you have a turbo. go for it dude ill show you what you have to grind .. its not hard took me about 40 minutes with a drill and a round stone bit
well i cant find a good pic, and all mine from the install got deleted when my comp crashed. but basically if you put the Pressure plate on the flywheel there will be 3 circular cut outs on the flywheel where the PP springs sit. youll notice that the gap between the spring on the PP and the cutout on the flywheel are very close. you have to open that cutout a little bit more. kevin suggested like 1/8 of a inch. thats what i did and now things are cool. i used these round grindind stones from sears. they worked pretty well. but im sure there is something out there that works better. but that should help if not let me know i might be able to help you more . But i also heard that the trubo Flywheels didnt have this problem. not sure about this . but its worth a look
Last edited by alwayssideways; 08-10-04 at 12:57 PM.
#4
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (8)
This applies to NA cars, turbos are different. The NA flywheel friction surface is BELOW the PP mounting surface, the NA flywheel has raised "pads" where the flywheel bolts to, with open areas in between. The turbo flywheels are flat all across, with no "pads". ON the NA, the space between the pads is where the PP's spring mechanisms sit...these have to be able to move for the clutch to work.
ON the SR flywheels I installed, the fw didn't have any "pads"...it was a solid round surfacee, with smaller semicircles cut out to accomodate the springs. The problem with this is that the springs (of an ACT PP anyway) are too big and hit the PP, the semicircle cutouts are too small and must be ground open some to allow clearance. Failure to do so means the springs on the PP will stick, meaning it will not disengage, and the car cannot be driven.
The turbo model should not be afflicted, because the PP is made differently, and there are no cutouts for the springs, the flywheel is almost totally flat.
ON the SR flywheels I installed, the fw didn't have any "pads"...it was a solid round surfacee, with smaller semicircles cut out to accomodate the springs. The problem with this is that the springs (of an ACT PP anyway) are too big and hit the PP, the semicircle cutouts are too small and must be ground open some to allow clearance. Failure to do so means the springs on the PP will stick, meaning it will not disengage, and the car cannot be driven.
The turbo model should not be afflicted, because the PP is made differently, and there are no cutouts for the springs, the flywheel is almost totally flat.
#6
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (7)
I have one also. I've had it for over a year and haven't had a problem yet.
This is on an 88T2. Haven't had any problems at the track either, just have to rev a little higher.
Has anybody looked at there pads yet on the flywheel after a clutch change? I've had it on for over a year and I want to know if you have to change the pads when you get a new clutch.
Thanks
This is on an 88T2. Haven't had any problems at the track either, just have to rev a little higher.
Has anybody looked at there pads yet on the flywheel after a clutch change? I've had it on for over a year and I want to know if you have to change the pads when you get a new clutch.
Thanks
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#12
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (7)
I was looking at that same combo before, but I went with the #9.5 flywheels from SR.
I'm using the heavy duty ACT clutch kit that came as a kit with the SR flywheel and counterwieght.
I've done many hard launches with the setup with no problems, but I did have to put in a new clutch master and slave cylinder's with the new clutch.
I'm using the heavy duty ACT clutch kit that came as a kit with the SR flywheel and counterwieght.
I've done many hard launches with the setup with no problems, but I did have to put in a new clutch master and slave cylinder's with the new clutch.
Last edited by Silverfc88; 08-10-04 at 08:11 PM.
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