exhaust and timing
finally got the turbo rebuilt (again). It was definaltey put together wrong which was allowing it to basically fill up with oil. Changed the plugs because they were so fouled and cleaned all the intake and intercooler with choke cleaner to get the oil out. Now I have to figure out how to get it out of the exhaust system because it's still smoking. I know it's not blowing oil anymore because the tube leading from the turbo to the intercooler inlet is not coated in oil anymore. I have my broken NA and was wondering at what point do the exhaust systems become similar. I got that the down pipe is different, but what about the cats and y pipe back. Can i just swap them over?
Still trying to figure out the timing. Ground the test pin, but the closest I can get to the timing mark is if the CAS is turned all the way counter clockwise against the stop and it's still not quite there. I've checke multiple times to make sure the the engine timining marks are set and the mark on the bottom of the CAS is aligned, but still no joy. FSM seems pretty straight forward, but am I missing something?
Still trying to figure out the timing. Ground the test pin, but the closest I can get to the timing mark is if the CAS is turned all the way counter clockwise against the stop and it's still not quite there. I've checke multiple times to make sure the the engine timining marks are set and the mark on the bottom of the CAS is aligned, but still no joy. FSM seems pretty straight forward, but am I missing something?
the cat and catback are almost identical in dimensions between the turbo and n/a, you should have no problem swapping them out.
for timing, the engine MUST be idling below 1k RPMs. just grounding the check connector still does not bypass this requirement, you will hear an audible change in the engine when the engine goes into idle timing mode after that threshold is passed. to verify, the timing split will also match the 15* on the pulley, if the split is at 0 between leading and trailing or anywhere in between then it is not in 'idle mode'.
for timing, the engine MUST be idling below 1k RPMs. just grounding the check connector still does not bypass this requirement, you will hear an audible change in the engine when the engine goes into idle timing mode after that threshold is passed. to verify, the timing split will also match the 15* on the pulley, if the split is at 0 between leading and trailing or anywhere in between then it is not in 'idle mode'.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Jan 31, 2014 at 06:03 PM.
15* is the split between leading and trailing for the #1 rotor, which is the area in between the yellow and red marks. yellow mark to the driver side is the lead mark(either leading coil wire to the front coil pack), red to the passenger side is the trailing mark(trailing coil pack towards the firewall, front coil wire).
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