Hi, have a few questions again.. let's get right down to it.

I live in Florida, no emissions are required. My 1987 TII sat for a long time in Savanna,Ga. making all the exhaust rust.. rust through in a lot of spots.. has Fab.'d up exhaust worked on a TII before? I don't need to run a CAT because of the lack of emission laws. I would like to just FAB up an exhaust and maybe run a single pipe or split it off and make a stock looking dual. Anyway, I'd like to to be kinda quiet sounding and don't want to spend 300+ dollars on aftermarket stuff if I can help it (and I don't like the can at the end of the pipe.. just preference). Is it doable?

Also, I'd like to keep the car as stock as possible, (it's a very original car). What is the best way to wake it up a little. I'm going to rebuild the engine and port out the exhaust ports slightly. I was also thinking of getting that box from racing beat to get rid of the 2nd rotor fuel cut off at RPM. Would moving the boost to like 10psi (it's 8 stock right?) do much? I'd like not to put in a Haltec if I can help it (trying to keep it stock) but I don't want to burn it up either by being dumb/cheap. Regardless of the opinion of above, I was going to put on an aftermarket down pipe. Would like some opinions from some experienced persons if I could. Happy Holidays All!

 

Any fabricated exhaust or custom exhaust will always work no matter on what car it is (as long as you don't go too small 2.5"-3.0" is fine, 3.0 is the common one for turbo)

True, but you will be smelling like exhaust everyday and it gets old, get a new high flow cat you will thank yourself later...

If you run a cat it will help keep the noise down, running a presilencer before your mufflers will also help keep it down, either or... I am not sure I understand what you mean by you don't like the can at the end of the pipe, are you talking about the current muffler or you just don't like mufflers showing on the bumper at all? If it's the second one, then run a presilencer where the cat was (or a cat), and run straight pipes to the back. It will still be louder than just having your mufflers at the end of the exhaust. Or you can add mufflers that are not as big somewheres before the bumpers... If you can find materials and can do a setup like you want for less than 300, it's doable. If you want to get a downpipe, you can also make one yourself, just buy the flanges and build the rest if you are good at doing that kind of stuff...

If you are going to port it, then you are already on the right track. If you are going to get a fuel cut eliminator and crank the boost, I would start looking in upgrading your fuel pump at a minimum since you are also porting. So long as you keep a street port, I believe (not 100% sure) you should be fine with the stock ECU if you don't want to play with fuel management, but I would recommend you find a way to tune your fuel on top using a piggy back computer like the RTEK. It's not a stand alone, and it uses the stock ecu, it will let you add more fuel as needed and probably the best way to do it if you are going to do the stated modifications...

With an aftermarket downpipe, and a better flowing exhaust in general you will start to see boost creep/spike (your boost may peek 10+psi) because your stock waste gate will become a restriction, not allowing the exhaust to escape freely. Porting your wastegate should help out on this, search boost creep, waste gate port or boost spike on here you will find information on this and is probably the second thing you should include while you build your new exhaust.... You won't burn it up if you want to increase your stock turbos boost to 10psi and do the recommendation i've stated before....

 

def run a 3" high flow cat, gets rid of the nasty smell that comes with being catless

 

RTEK is not a piggy back computer, it fully takes the place of the Stock ECU.

 

i am porting the wastegate currently. If you decide to do that make sure you set aside some time cause so far mine has taken a while cause some of the bolts are a pain to get to. and with the car being 20+ years old and never being taken apart the bolts/nuts are pretty tough to remove in some spots. but overall its not too bad of a job to do. So far the biggest pain in the *** is getting the heat shields off. and im currently working on getting the last bolt off the downpipe. but deff do it prior to getting exhaust put on.

 

RTEK "Stage 1" isn't a full stand alone, it's actually just a retuned chip for the stock ecu so it isn't a real piggyback either....

http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=1&ecu=S4T2

 

Its also partially reprogrammed, and replaces the stock ECU. (Yes, the chip part only, but that is really the big part of the ECU)

I agree that its an in-between solution, but its far from a 'retuned' chip where the only thing that changes was the turning parameters.

 

Wow, thanks for the info.. That's exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering if the FAB'd up exhaust would work more because of the high heat of the rotary. Yes I don't like the can up against the bumper.. I like the sleeper stock look just fine. I just pulled out the engine and transmission today.. had tons of maple seeds under the fuel rail.. (why I don't know). Corrosion build up and hard as rock vacuum lines. Pulled off the Turbo.. should I rebuild it? End play feels to be within limits from general guess. The part of the turbo that mounts to the exhaust manifold in between the 2 rectangle ports has a crack .. is this ok? Questions.....

1 Should I stay with the stock exhaust manifold?
2. Should I stay with stock injectors? I do agree with the upgraded fuel pump..
3. any flow rate ideas and any piggyback ECU ideas? I'd rather not spend 800+ dollars on a piggy back system if I could.

I'll admit now that I've been out of the rotary field for about 3 years now so I half remember what to do with this thing. Thanks for the great info so far.

 

id say if the turbo felt fine then i wouldnt bother rebuilding it. the vaccum lines are extremely easy to fix especially since you already have the motor out. i went to auto zone and bought 15 feet of vaccum hose and replace all the ones i could get ahold of. while you have the motor out pull the turbo off and port the wastegate for later if you do upgrade your exhaust.

 

i have heard lots of people say that the manifold cracked in that same spot. and noone has had problems from it. luckly i pulled off my turbo today and i dont have the crack

 

So porting the waste gate is pretty straight forward? Ya I planned on replacing all the vacuum lines and the oil injection lines.

 

Just make sure you get material that won't rust into pieces later down the road, get good grade metal pipe.

Turbo manifolds will usually always end up cracking eventually, if it's not leaking out into atmosphere you are fine. If the turbo play is within spec, it's really up to you if you want to rebuild it or not...

1. Look at the comment above for the answer

2. The stock injectors should be fine if you are only going to crank the stock turbo to 10psi.

3. Well if you want to talk talking about flow rates and piggy backs, you really need to start asking yourself what is your goal here. 10psi doesn't say much at all, just that you want to run 10psi. But if that's all you really want to run is 10psi on the stock turbo as your goal then the stock injectors will be fine, just have them flowed and cleaned.

 

from what ive seeen porting is pretty easy as long as you take your time. i have my turbo out but wont have time till thurs to port it. but it seems very easy. like i said just take your time.

 

oh and my personal opinion on the exhaust is if you dont want to spend the cash for a bolt on system. then take it to a rep shop and have them custom make one. Personally i like bolt on systems.

 

So porting the waste gate is pretty straight forward? Ya I planned on replacing all the vacuum lines and the oil injection lines.

 

Ya I guess saying I want to run 10 psi is saying I want to run 10psi. I guess my goal is making a solid daily driver that's respectable (and getting the most out of the stock turbo with out killing it). It doesn't have to be super quick but I do like to be thrown back in the seat a bit. I bought a 64 chevy truck and did way to much work in that thing when I got back from Japan. That's the Hp monster. This is what I had before I left. I got all the tuning of imports out of my system while I was in Japan. Now I just want a nice daily that has some ***** so a honda doesn't think he's a bad *** (ok maybe more than a honda ) . That would just be sad for a 7.

 

I think the easiest way to solve your problem would be to set a power goal. After you do that, you can decide the best way to go about achieving it.

 

The stock turbo I believe will get you around 250-270HP and peaks out around 12psi as far as efficiency....

 

Well with my current idea.. what is my power goal around? I'm not sure anymore what the mods would produce. Exhaust with a cat and a muffler.. maybe 2.5 - 3'', exhaust ports slightly ported with the rebuild. and that's about it except for maybe raising the boost level of the turbo slightly. Ideas?

 

250 doesn't sound bad? Hows a 250 hp car run? still get decent gas mileage with reliable power?