I think there might be a leak on my manifold. It seemed to be a little loud in the bay when it was cold. It sometimes sputters without the tach needle bouncing at all. The noise seemed to go away when warm also. I just installed my Blits timer with the built in boost gauge. When cold it is registering -6 bar on idle and -5.7 on idle after warm up. I need your two cents on the diagnosis and the fix. How difficult is it to get the turbo out and swap the gasket there. What parts will I need and how much to budget for time for a moderate experience with Rotaries.

Thanks

 

I own a 88 Turbo II and had to replace my exhaust manifold, these manifolds are notorious for cracking. Very poor design. The most common area for a leak is where the twin scroll pod mounts to the manifold, usually hairline cracks form there and leak. The Turbo R and R is not a very hard job, just takes some time. You'll need a new turbo to manifold gasket, and also the manifold to motor gasket. I would also recommend getting the gaskets for the oil lines and the coolant line. Finding a good used exhaust manifold will be the hardest part. Also, before you jump into that project, check your turbo bolts when the car is cold. there is one that is especially hard to get to and loose turbo bolts will cause a good leak also.

 

for the great info, i will check the bolts before starting to dissasemble everything

 

I found 3 out of the 4 exhaust manifold nuts loose on my tII. It quieted the exhaust leak a little but its still there. I think either my gasket blew out, the maniffold if cracked, or there are more loose nuts in the area.

Im hopeing its just nuts loose cause the gaskets arent cheap. $60 for the engine to manifold and $37 for the manifold to turbo.

 

Put Gray colored silicone on the engine (around exhaust ports), exhaust manifold and on the used gasket (do not use the orange hi-temp bullshit silicone). It will solve your problem. This silicone is so good we have known people not to use oil pan gasket at all and a few other gaskests.

 

but I do not think silicon will solve a crack in the system...

 

Who makes the gray silicone?