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I've had an exhaust leak for awhile that I've been ignoring / occasionally slapping cement onto (which lasts a couple weeks before needing more).
I haven't really invested any time or money fixing it properly since the problem area will be thrown in the bin and replaced when I swap a Turbo II driveline in. The timeline on that has shown to be longer than expected though, so in the meantime I want to fix the leak.
Fixing the leak will require that I cut out the end of the downpipe before it meets the catalyst, tweak the pipe a couple millimeters, and then weld in new flanges.
I have a set of v-band flanges and a flex-section on the way. The idea is that the flex-section will be easier than tweaking the pipe as I don't have access to a bender.
Has anyone used a braided flex-section on their exhaust? Has it been damaged from the rotary exhaust heat? The flex shouldn't be necessary on a longitudinally mounted engine but it may help absorb some vibrations too. It only needs to last a year or two (tops).
I too have wondered about those flex sections. This may be too late to help you since you already ordered your parts but here's what I did when I fixed my rusted-out exhaust. I bought some mandrel bends but because I couldn't find the exact angles I needed I Bought a 45degree and a J-bend and sectioned them up at angles and welded them together to make what I needed.
Welds don't look the greatest but this is one of the projects I was learning to weld on. Also didn't have gas yet so it was flux-core.
Got the idea from the 2-stoke cone pipes.2-stroke cone pipe - Google Search
That thought had crossed my mind, but I really only need to move the flange a few millimeters laterally. It lines up in two axes, it's just off a bit in the third.
The flex section will hopefully achieve that without needing to cut anything, and then it also gives it some flex. But I'm mostly concerned about what the EGTs will do the the braided section.
02-03-23, 01:12 PM
