wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

I am getting an exedy stage 1 heavy duty , model/part # 10803ahd , I was informed that the stiffer clutches are hard on the series 4 turbo cars because they have weaker clutch fork and pivot ball, i told the best way to prevent any problems is to replace the pivot ball, i assume the only one that will fit is the 87-88 and the 89-91 pivot ball won't work on an 87-88, the 87-88 pivot ball is only $9.50 from atkins rotary

how hard is it to replace the pivot ball ? it looks fairly simple,

I purchased an oem pilot bearing and seal, I'll be using the throwout bearing the comes with the kit and the alignment tool.

Is there anything else I need to know or buy? New Stainless steel clutch slave lines and slave cyl (mine all seem fine though but i figured I'd ask? A new dust boot for the fork?

The reason I'm getting the heavy duty clutch is because its not much more expensive than the regular stage one so i figured its worth the extra 40 dollars (even if its not necessary for my setup).

This will be the first clutch I've installed, installation seems pretty straightforward, just make sure you face the disc in the correct direction and torque everything to spec, replace all the bearings and put some high temp grease on the throwout bearing, not sure if the pilot bearing needs a light coating of high temp grease (i think so), align the clutch to everything with the alignment tool.

I have a haynes manual to guide me through the process.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the factory shop manual is here Foxed.ca

you need to grease the pilot bearing too.

if you're worried about the pivot ball, now is the time to replace it its part number N302-16-102, retail is $12, so even at full price its not bad. grease this as well

IMO i'd skip the clutch hydraulics, they are actually really easy to change later.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

This is one guys review, are the problems he ran into likely from installation or what ? he installed his in an rx8 iirc.

The install went pretty smooth. After it was all done, I had some issues getting into gear, but nothing that couldn't be fixed with a pedal adjustment. The one thing that I'm not happy about is the squealing noise coming from my throw out bearing. It doesn't hinder functionality, but my bearing makes a high pitched noise when it's cold out. I made sure to lube the bearing on the shaft and even went so far as to take it all back apart and relube it, but the noise won't go away. This did not happen with the old bearing

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if you want me to run it by legal, or the engineering dept i will, but i don't see how that review is relevant at all.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

That's okay but thanks for the offer, I just hope I'm not wasting money getting the nicer heavy duty clutch, I just expect it to give me better performance.

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

How is it wasting money on a better set that will give you more than what you need?
Just because an idiot f*cked up a clutch job doesn't make it a relevant post. Just that he's an idiot.
As I posted in your other thread, new parts and torque . Use FSM and you can't mess up.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I'm finding that you start off with one setup and move to another eventually.
So go BIG and stay ahead of the Game.In the long run you will save money.
Skimping on parts now will bite you in the *** later,so If your Budget is not allowing you to get it done,then alter your time line to get the car on the road,so you can get the better part.

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

As noted before, you are going to have one HELL of a time getting out the pilot beraing without the rotary pilot bearing tool. If the damn thing is seated all the way in, there is NO WAY you're going get a regular pilot bearing remover in there to grab the lip.
The flywheel is another. Under the car you have limited leverage. It's at least 350ft lbs torque. Most impacts can't remove something torqued that high.

I'm posting this ahead of time because I know you're going to post here about it.

You CAN get out the pilot bearing without the special tool but all depends how far it's in there. One car I had to grind down the pilot bearing wall (s/s) and pry it out (after 2 hours later).

When you read about it, it is straighforward. If you are removing a new installed items. Nothings seized.

One thing to note is when are installing the pilot bearing , you don't need to stick it all the way in. Use a (12mm?) socket and tap it in (SLOWLY and EVENLY) just at the lower groove on e shaft. Some pilot bearing comes with a seal ( little ring for outer end)l and some don't. I always use it and it actually protects the bearing as you slam the shaft in and out trying to align it (not it's purpose). Use high temp grease inside and shaft on the throw out bearing.
I cannot stress enough to do this slow and make sure EVERY moves smoothly.
The clutch goes on way, cannot mess that up. Torque the pressure plate in cross section and go over at least 3 times.

TII tranny is heavy if you are doing in on the garage floor and getting in aligned.
The reason I told you to change the pivot ball is it is 25yrs old, it is cheap and you're going to put more stress on it with a HD pressure plate.
If that breaks, you're without a clutch because the fork will be disabled.

I'm probably missing something.

Oh yea, get some beer.

I'm getting one.

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

Don't mind the misspelling and grammar.
Long day.....

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Flywheel has already been resurfaced so all I need to do is put the clutch on I just ordered the heavy duty.