An equal balance for drifting and drag racing.
#1
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An equal balance for drifting and drag racing.
I bought my FC for 800 bucks. It's a GTU S4 Model, the 5 lug and the LSD ofcourse. I have around 5 grand that I want to invest into it.
Really New to Rotary engines, I am more of a Piston wiz.
I was thinking about going with a 13b-t from Japan Racing Engines corp. They have a really good deal for 1,150 with the transmission and everything else, such as the ECU, and wiring harness.
I want to put out about 250-300 horses, and I'm not talking about going with a bigger turbo. Then again, I don't really want to rebuild and take apart the whole motor and replace everything, and port and polish, I want to do basic setups so I can run a pretty decent 250-300 WHP, and Torque.
What's the best way ?
- What Engine management system for a Turbo 13b ?
- I/M/E ?
- Injectors ?
- FMIC ? (Bigger piping ?)
- etc.
I just want to use it for drifting, and drag racing. I don't want to spend a lot of money into this, because next year I am thinking about going with an FD project.
Really New to Rotary engines, I am more of a Piston wiz.
I was thinking about going with a 13b-t from Japan Racing Engines corp. They have a really good deal for 1,150 with the transmission and everything else, such as the ECU, and wiring harness.
I want to put out about 250-300 horses, and I'm not talking about going with a bigger turbo. Then again, I don't really want to rebuild and take apart the whole motor and replace everything, and port and polish, I want to do basic setups so I can run a pretty decent 250-300 WHP, and Torque.
What's the best way ?
- What Engine management system for a Turbo 13b ?
- I/M/E ?
- Injectors ?
- FMIC ? (Bigger piping ?)
- etc.
I just want to use it for drifting, and drag racing. I don't want to spend a lot of money into this, because next year I am thinking about going with an FD project.
Last edited by 13b_soldier; 12-26-07 at 02:49 PM. Reason: something.
#3
On the fasttrack!
iTrader: (22)
theres your problem, you dont want to spend money.
1) apexi powerfc (1200$ if you can find it)
2) dunno what that means
3) depends on your engine output, and if its ported or not
3) 2 1/4 piping to a fmic (i prefere the v-mount myself)
4) upgraded turbo, no need to go nuts though.
if anyone else has suggestions, please correct me or add stuff.
peace
p.s. oh yes, search is your friend.
1) apexi powerfc (1200$ if you can find it)
2) dunno what that means
3) depends on your engine output, and if its ported or not
3) 2 1/4 piping to a fmic (i prefere the v-mount myself)
4) upgraded turbo, no need to go nuts though.
if anyone else has suggestions, please correct me or add stuff.
peace
p.s. oh yes, search is your friend.
#4
NASA-MW ST4
iTrader: (7)
If you buy a J-spec engine you should rebuild it.
$1,150 for the engine.
Then rebuild and port it. ($400 - $2000)
Get the Racing Beat Rev Turbo Exhaust. ($1000)
A EMS will be best, your choice. ($1000)
And thats about $5K
Now, I'm an N/A guy, so I don't know if you will need bigger injectors. A FMIC will get you more power and potential, but I don't know if its needed at your power level.
$1,150 for the engine.
Then rebuild and port it. ($400 - $2000)
Get the Racing Beat Rev Turbo Exhaust. ($1000)
A EMS will be best, your choice. ($1000)
And thats about $5K
Now, I'm an N/A guy, so I don't know if you will need bigger injectors. A FMIC will get you more power and potential, but I don't know if its needed at your power level.
#5
big turbo spoolin
iTrader: (2)
you dont need to port anything with the exception of your wastegate. buy a used haltech e6k, should be between 750 and a grand, then either build your own hybrid or buy one used from someone, their are so many options for front mount that its ridiculous, 720cc secondaries, walbro fuel pump, some kind of down pipe, test pispe, cat back, does not have to be racing beat, hell just run a 3in. down pipe and strait pipe the rest. i dont know why more peeps dont buy used stand alones from the get go, the e6k is a good unit. you could buy all that for around 2000 if you shop around and make some friends. after installing all of that, get it tuned by a reputable tuner that knows haltech and rotarys, then you can upgrade from their really easily. once again, their is no need to port your engine, everybody thinks that porting is the god send to the rotary engine, the guy who tunes my car did 10 second passes at like 134 on stock ports so dont tell me it cant be done. he is making 700 at the flywheel on stock re ports right now. good luck and dont forget to premix.
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#8
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
honestly dude you will be surprised how powerful and quick a T2 with stock turbo, intercooler, and ECU can be, even on stock ports. You should be able to do 220 to the wheels if you get 720 secondarys, an rtek 2.0 chip, and full exhaust. I've seen someone do 250 on a healthy stock port motor with those mods. methanol/water injection or an intercooler sprayer would increase reliability.
#9
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If you buy a J-spec engine you should rebuild it.
$1,150 for the engine.
Then rebuild and port it. ($400 - $2000)
Get the Racing Beat Rev Turbo Exhaust. ($1000)
A EMS will be best, your choice. ($1000)
And thats about $5K
Now, I'm an N/A guy, so I don't know if you will need bigger injectors. A FMIC will get you more power and potential, but I don't know if its needed at your power level.
$1,150 for the engine.
Then rebuild and port it. ($400 - $2000)
Get the Racing Beat Rev Turbo Exhaust. ($1000)
A EMS will be best, your choice. ($1000)
And thats about $5K
Now, I'm an N/A guy, so I don't know if you will need bigger injectors. A FMIC will get you more power and potential, but I don't know if its needed at your power level.
Find a T2 parts car with a blown motor, Local junkyard may have one for around 3-600$, send motor to be rebuilt by RR and get it ported while your at it, thats only, i think, 1400$ for the rebuild, plus you have the rest of the driveline for the T2 swap. Put a lil bit larger injectors in there while your at it, and a better fuel pump.
Get a lighter free flowing exhaust used off of here for like 400$ for a corksport or apexi, the RB exhaust is nice but it is heavy.
Get a MS EMS 450$ for a plug and play to your stock harness, then have it tuned, youll have less than 700$ in everything
spend the extra grand you have on a good suspension, no need for coil overs if you want to daily the car. Just get the simple RB,eibach, GC spings on AGX shocks.
have fun.
#11
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
honestly dude you will be surprised how powerful and quick a T2 with stock turbo, intercooler, and ECU can be, even on stock ports. You should be able to do 220 to the wheels if you get 720 secondarys, an rtek 2.0 chip, and full exhaust. I've seen someone do 250 on a healthy stock port motor with those mods. methanol/water injection or an intercooler sprayer would increase reliability.
#13
Clean.
iTrader: (1)
According to rx7.com you need to upgrade fuel system components after 250-300HP.
Unfortunately there's no rtek for the s5 turbo.
Conservative tuning always helps reliability. Rotaries are very knock sensitive; they'll pop fast from just one good strong knock. Other than that and sensitivity to overheating, they're pretty reliable.
IIRC auxillary injection decreases the intake temps by 80 degrees. So besides reliability that translates to about a 12% boost in power (~25HP). Or I could be mistaken and it might be 40 degrees, in which case you only get half that. Plus there's only so much cooling you can get from the intercooler and aux injection put together. So if those numbers are on a stock intercooler, it'd make less of a difference after upgrading the intercooler (though still better than the intercooler or aux injection alone). There's an aux injection section to the forums where you can sort out my (mis)information.
Unfortunately there's no rtek for the s5 turbo.
Conservative tuning always helps reliability. Rotaries are very knock sensitive; they'll pop fast from just one good strong knock. Other than that and sensitivity to overheating, they're pretty reliable.
IIRC auxillary injection decreases the intake temps by 80 degrees. So besides reliability that translates to about a 12% boost in power (~25HP). Or I could be mistaken and it might be 40 degrees, in which case you only get half that. Plus there's only so much cooling you can get from the intercooler and aux injection put together. So if those numbers are on a stock intercooler, it'd make less of a difference after upgrading the intercooler (though still better than the intercooler or aux injection alone). There's an aux injection section to the forums where you can sort out my (mis)information.
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