I know there aren't any kits, I've read your great NA-to-Turbo guide, and I plan to use it in this project.


Actually, there are about... 3~4 SA/FB's, about 4 FC's and 4 FD's.


-- and, I wish someone made a kit, hehe, after all, in my situation, for example, it's my only option other than buying an FD. And FD's down here go for about 25k USD.

 

With that little access to replacement parts and simlar cars I would not go crazy trying to achive power. IMO enjoy the car for what it is with some minor safe power upgrades or find a different car. If there truly is that few rotary powerd cars in the whole country that basically puts you on your own in this project...

But that's just my opinion.

 

I have no problem in importing parts, I have people that do it all the time -- only getting a full engine would be an issue really.

I love the Rx-7 so much and live in a country in which it is extremely rare :'(

The thing is, I don't plan on giving up... but I do need some help from you guys, hehe.

 

hey is 500 bucks for a turbo and bov for a turbo 2 good that makes 400hp

 

I would say that would should just follow Aaron's guide to turboing it if you have some fab skills, or get the exhaust spacer and go that route otherwise. Just don't cheap out, though. Saving money on a turbo engine = blown motor.

 

I don't plan on being cheap at all.

I assume I will end up spending over 4k USD on this, right?

Regarding skills, my father owns a pretty big auto repair shop, so I have all the time, skills and tools the mechanics have, at my service.

I want to do everything the best way possible.

 

Excellent, it sounds like you are going in with the right attitude.

 

to make that much power with an n/a probally wouldnt be to streetable and rather expensive, i think your best solution is going to have to do a 13bt swap, if thats to undooable than maybe youll have to swing for an fd...

 

Might I ask why you are setting a goal of 350 horsepower? Any particular reason, or just seem reasonable?

 

No particular reason really.

I stated 350hp in the thread title, but getting something like 300hp or slightly over/under that would make me happy, heh.

 

Why not have a TurboII engine disassembled, and shipped to you in parts, then have it rebuilt?

 

Thought of that.

The problem here is -- if for some reason the police/insurance/whatever want to check my FC's VIN and engine identification code, I'm terribly screwed.

Still, I don't know where this code is located... maybe importing a Turbo engine disassembled and mixing it with some of my current NA's parts would allow me to keep the NA's engine code?

I would also like to know, what makes the 13B-Turbo so superior to a NA 13B? Why does everyone recommend people to get a Turbo engine instead of working on the NA engine?

 

Couldn't you send it in lump sums. Like for example, send the housings in one shipment. Once those cleared customs, send the center front and back plates, then rotors and e-shaft or something. It would be a major inconvenience, yes, but the outcome would be a much easier to obtain 350 hp.

 

There is a casting number on the front iron.
Really, the TII block is not superior to an N/A block. The real differences are the compression ratio from the rotors, and the front and rear irons are different. Pretty much everything else is the same, save minor things like the oil return line on the front cover (easy mod), better oil pump, and a different oil filler tube. The rotor housings will easily work in a TII engine, with some mild modifications to the exhaust diffusers.
Why people think the TII engine is so superior is beyond me. Maybe they just like the TII intake manfiolds better?

 

Most of those parts are a waste of time.
The only difference between TII rotor housings and N/A rotor housings are the coolant feeds for the turbo, which takes less than 5 minutes to drill and smooth out, and the exhaust sleeves, which can be reworked within an afternoon with a press and a TIG welder. The cost to have this done would be less than the cost of shipping.
The center plates are identical castings. There's no upgrade in switching to the TII center plate.
The e shafts are identical. No upgrade in switching to a TII shaft.

If you wanted a TII block, rebuild your engine with TII front and rear plates, and use TII rotors and intake manifolds. Use a TII oil pump, and tap your front cover for a oil return line. Everything else is identical.

 

I would prefer the TII engine over the N/A engine for the four ports as opposed to six ports, myself. Even if I were to build an all motor 13B I would opt for a TII block to start with.

But like you said, scathcart, the housings are close to the same save minor things so you could use them. Get the front and rear irons, and the other things listed by scathcart and you are good to go.

 

I would definately get a TII motor shipped over in parts. With only a handful of rotaries in the country, they probably wouldn't know what they were looking at anyways!

 

At only 300-350rwhp levels, I would opt to keep the higher comp rotors. Better off-boost response, better spool up time, more power with less boost. To keep things simple, I would use the TII front and rear plates, and intake manifolds. Using the N/A intake manifolds on turbo engine is a waste of time. This way, any turbo kit for a TII will bolt on. This is the most headache-free method of building a turbocharged engine.

 

6-port irons are junk, N/A manifolds are junk, and you need the turbo/manifold anyways. Why not just use it all? It's gonna have to be rebuilt anyways. He could simply use his 9.7/1 rotors if compression is such an issue. I say with 350whp, TII rotors would be ideal. One tuning mistake and there goes your engine. How many decent rotary tuners do you think there are in Argentina, if there only exists a handful of rotaries?

 

You're right. Have an entire TII engine block shipped to him in parts when only a fraction of them are even remotely different from the engine he already has.

No matter what, the engine is going to need tuning. You really think that a tuner who can tune for 350 hp with 9.0:1 rotors isn't going to be able to safely tune for that same power level at less boost with higher comp rotors?

You think that with goals of 300-350 hp, he's going to use the stock turbocharger or manifolds?

N/A irons are junk, eh? Hmm, last time I checked, they supported over 200hp of direct injected nitrous. Thats an extra 260 ft-lbs of torque at 4000 rpm. N/A irons work fantastic in their properly applied application. Look at the renesis, but I suppose you will tell that the renesis is "junk", too.

 

I said that the 6 port plates are great for their application. The renesis is a fantastic engine, and the ports work very well with its configuration. Just because you can make more power with different plates and turbocharging does not make the 6 port plates "Junk", by any means.
Show me ANY N/A rotary that makes anywhere close to the renesis hp and comes anywhere close to matching its fuel economy, emissions, and drivability. Hell, show me a turbo rotary that does any of these things. The renesis damn near acheived identical power levels to the FD engine and did so far more efficiently.
Do you not understand what application means?

 

Ebay is your friend.

 

So, basically...

13b4me - you believe I should get a complete TII engine.

scathcart - you believe I should get TII front and rear plates, and intake manifolds, and use them on my current NA engine.


-- right?

 

I believe you should do what works best for you and your budget. If you can get a whole TII engine shipped over in parts, I think you would have less issues to deal with. Less headache. That's basically all I was getting at.

 

i dont mean to hijack the thread or anything but im in need of an engine rebuild for my Tii. wonder if it was cheaper to do the engine rebuild or get one from here as mentioned in the first page of this thread. http://osakajdmmotors.com/codes/mazda13BT.htm