2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Engine will start and die after depressing gas pedal...

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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 07:51 PM
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Engine will start and die after depressing gas pedal...

The engine will start and keep running for a few seconds. As soon as I give it some gas it dies.

I checked for codes, but no codes.

I has emissions removed and I rechecked vacuum lines and good.

Any ideas would be great!

Thanks!
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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Mass air flow or Vane Air Flow Sensor Connected? TPS Connected? Ect...?

Can it idle without gas? Sounds like a giant vacuum leak making it run way too lean.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 08:37 PM
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Find the Circuit Opening relay, pic provided, located to the right of the steering column under the dash and jumper a wire from the solid Black wire to the solid Brown wire and try to start the car and see if it continues to run properly. Also, check for voltage on the Blue wire in the same relay w/key to on when the two wires I mentioned are jumpered. If voltage is not present then the relay is damaged.

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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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From: crater on mars
test the bac valve
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jjcobm
Mass air flow or Vane Air Flow Sensor Connected? TPS Connected? Ect...?

Can it idle without gas? Sounds like a giant vacuum leak making it run way too lean.
I have checked them. If weren't connected I should got a code for it.

Originally Posted by satch
Find the Circuit Opening relay, pic provided, located to the right of the steering column under the dash and jumper a wire from the solid Black wire to the solid Brown wire and try to start the car and see if it continues to run properly. Also, check for voltage on the Blue wire in the same relay w/key to on when the two wires I mentioned are jumpered. If voltage is not present then the relay is damaged.
I will give it a test tomorrow. Never heard about this. Did you have a similar problem?

Originally Posted by NatAsRex7
test the bac valve
I can hear it clicking when key is turned on
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by FuriousComet
I have checked them. If weren't connected I should got a code for it.



I will give it a test tomorrow. Never heard about this. Did you have a similar problem?



I can hear it clicking when key is turned on
Circuit Opening relay controls the voltage to the fuel pump. When the car is initially started the AFM does not play a role in dictating whether or not the fuel pump recieves voltage until the engine climbs to 500 RPM and above, which at that point the AFM takes over as far as providing voltage to the pump. And I do not have this problem but have helped others diagnose a similar problem but the fact exists that your problem could be something totally unrelated.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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did you have your injectors off,or take them Off to do the emission delete?
My car did the same thing and it was Switched injector wiring.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Circuit Opening relay controls the voltage to the fuel pump. When the car is initially started the AFM does not play a role in dictating whether or not the fuel pump recieves voltage until the engine climbs to 500 RPM and above, which at that point the AFM takes over as far as providing voltage to the pump. And I do not have this problem but have helped others diagnose a similar problem but the fact exists that your problem could be something totally unrelated.
Oh, I see. I do have a fuel cut switch for my fuel pump. I had to rewire my pump because of the old wiring.

Originally Posted by misterstyx69
did you have your injectors off,or take them Off to do the emission delete?
My car did the same thing and it was Switched injector wiring.
Honestly, not sure. The previous owner did the emission delete during the rebuild of the jspec motor.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by FuriousComet
Oh, I see. I do have a fuel cut switch for my fuel pump. I had to rewire my pump because of the old wiring.



Honestly, not sure. The previous owner did the emission delete during the rebuild of the jspec motor.
Your fuel cut switch might possibly be the problem then. Try what I suggested and if that doesn't help you might want to temporarily remove the switch you installed and see how that goes.
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by satch
Your fuel cut switch might possibly be the problem then. Try what I suggested and if that doesn't help you might want to temporarily remove the switch you installed and see how that goes.
Will do, I will test it out later today.
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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I had it unplugged when I did the rewire for the fuel pump. I test it out, jumped the wire and test the blue wire for voltage. The blue doesnt get voltage.
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by FuriousComet
I had it unplugged when I did the rewire for the fuel pump. I test it out, jumped the wire and test the blue wire for voltage. The blue doesnt get voltage.
With the two wires jumpered the key would need to be "on" for it to have voltage and the wire jumpered to the Brown wire is "solid Black" and not Black/White or Black/Red.

If you jumpered the proper wires and the Blue wire doesn't have voltage w/key to on then check the Black/White wire for voltage w/key to on. If it doesn't have voltage w/key to on then check the 15 amp "engine fuse" in the interior fuse box.
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