avrfan

hi,

how hard is it to swap an engine on a 13b non-turbo 88body style?

I'm wondering if it is too hard to pull the engine and put it back with the tranny still all bolted in place on the body?

Has anyone swapped the engine with tranny still in before? If so, please tell me any "Gotchas" or "Tips on what to look for to make this easier".

Things I'm expecting to give me problems are:

*getting the tranny input shaft splines into the clutch disc
* motor mounts still bolted to the engine hitting the steering rack and crossmember making it hard to line the tranny up with engine on replacement.

* I think removal will be easier.

Let me know what you think. Should I just pull the engine and tranny together?

thanks!
Dave

3engineRex

ive pulled my engine twice. the first time i did it, it took about 10 hours. the second time was much easier and took a little under 2 hours. just go to an auto parts store and buy a haynes manual (best thing in the world) if you dont already have one. just make sure you have a complete set of wrenches and sockets (most stuff in our cars is metric), and 2 six inch rachet extensions. and since your pulling your engine out it would be a good idea to take your radiator to a shop and have it boiled to get everything out of it. if you need any other help, post, do a search, pm me, or just whatever needs done to get the 7 back on the road.
forgot to add that i left the tranny in the car both times.

dcamcoTII

I'm doing it myself, so far it's taken about 2 months :-P. It's really not that difficult, I'm only 18 with limited mechanical know how and I haven't run into anything I couldn't do yet. The only thing that has taken me so long is waiting for parts and just not havng the time. It is very soable even for a very amatuer mechanic. Just be sure that you are very ambitious of it will take you quite a while . In addition to the haynes manual I strongly suggest that you pick up a Factory Service Manual. If there is anything that confuses you in tha haynes then it will most definatley be made clear in the FSM, and vica versa. Also, I strongly reccomend you do alot of research and find EVERYTHING you will need (gaskets, etc.) before you start so run into as few unexpected delays as possible. As far as the tranny, I left that in--you just have to be sure and get a jack under it to level it out with the motor, along with alot of wiggling. Hope that helps some

Manolis_D

iTrader: (2)

go ahead and leave that tranny in there -- it's not as bad as you'd think to line everything up again, because the tranny can be moved / wiggled around really easily when the engine is going in. Don't worry about the mounts either, just unbolt the mounts from the rubber pads on the subframe and hoist away! . Don't forget to throw a jack or something under the front end of the tranny, as it will fall down a bit (until the shifter stops it when it hits the front of the cutout inside the car).

Sniper_X

No matter what you hear...

Do NOT pull the engine and tranny together.
Much less with the wiring harness, etc.

You are a beginner and not even I do this yet.

This is an advanced tequnique that I COULD do im sure, but i prefer the block only method because it makes me inspecte eveery part as it goes back on.

All my cars purr like electric motors.

I have a step by step factory service manual available for you if you send me a PM and tell me where I can send about 25 megs of stuff.

It will walk you though step by step.

Its actually very VERY easy.

Also you can PM me and i can walk you though alot of things..

Since January 31st, I have pulled and installed / rebuilt more engines than i could have ever imagined.

I one day hope to learn how to move entire drive trains and harnesses without confusion and difficulty, but i dont have the time or the room to pull somthing so big all at once.

Much less have the inclination to do it for the hell of it.