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engine suggestions needed for 87 T II

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Old 12-24-02, 03:37 AM
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engine suggestions needed for 87 T II

i've got an 87 t II that has a blown engine and the rest of the car is in great shape. I was just wondering the best way about getting this sick car back on the street... I don't want the cheapest but i don't want to be turning it into a drag car... I want it to be quick and to run right and be reliable... do i find a rebuilt or do i put in a stock used 13b turbo engine?!?!?!
Please help me out
Old 12-24-02, 04:11 AM
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A lot of 'blown engines' arent blown at all. They are usually flooded or have a dead coil pack. Do a compression test. If they come back good buy the car (dont let the owner know either ). Its probably a simple fix. Anyways, if it is blown I say rebuild it, and port it
Old 12-24-02, 09:33 AM
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Just have the engine rebuilt. Don't buy some used up engine. Now you'll know that the engine is good. Not guessing when the apex seals are going to go bad. Buy a RB downpipe and presilencer plus a catback like the DynoMax. Don't buy the full RB three inch exaust. Just the 2 1/2 inch one. You'll just be pushing 10 and a touch psi boost. Plenty fast and you don't need a waldo fuel pump either. Do get a fuel cut defender though.
Old 12-24-02, 09:51 AM
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My suggesting, if you like the car and plan on keeping it a while, is to buy an Engine From Pineapple Racing, Rob uses new housings and has an excellant warrenty
Old 12-24-02, 10:18 AM
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90 turbo engine

have a friend selling a complete engine for 800 and takers
Old 12-24-02, 11:39 AM
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Just have the engine rebuilt. Don't buy some used up engine. Now you'll know that the engine is good. Not guessing when the apex seals are going to go bad. Buy a RB downpipe and presilencer plus a catback like the DynoMax. Don't buy the full RB three inch exaust. Just the 2 1/2 inch one. You'll just be pushing 10 and a touch psi boost. Plenty fast and you don't need a waldo fuel pump either. Do get a fuel cut defender though.
I've learned many things from you since I came to the board, but I've never heard anyone advocating using the stock fuel pump over the fuel cut point. Obviously mazda knew the stock system wouldn't cut it over 8.6psi and they were of course probably being generous, but 10psi on stock fuel system just seems a little risky to me. Besides the walbro is only 125 and takes 15 min. to put in. I think it's worth the peace of mind :shrug:
Old 12-24-02, 01:14 PM
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I thew the stock pump in there on purpose. I have a wideband from TechEdge and under full throttle, going uphill, fourth gear, six grand, I see figures no higher than 11.2 afr. I see mostly in the high 10's.

I've only done this for the last year and a quarter, so who knows. Go ahead and get the Walbro. Oh yes. I ran for a very short period of time with a mechanical fuel gauge going to the fuel line. Always saw the fuel pressure rise from the low fortys to close to fifty psi at wide open throttle and not decay. Satisfied me enough to just leave the stock fuel pump in. I do have a version of the fuel pump rewire though. Always over 12v at full throttle.

Maybe its the fresh rebuild, maybe something else. If the afr has to be richer than 11.2, then let it blow up and be done with it.\

I suppose your right. Shoulda just written in to use a WAldo in case someone runs lean.
Old 12-24-02, 03:33 PM
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Buy rebuilt TII engine with factory components, have it streetported (not too agressivly).

Throw on an air intake (piping and filter).

Remove all your stock exhaust system and put on a downpipe, 3" piping with mandrel bends, and a nice muffler. If you want you can put on a high flow cat and a pre-silencer if those things matter to you.

Upgrade your secondary injectors to 720cc units (stock are 550cc). You might want to throw in a larger fuel pump which flows 255 lph, but it might not be necessary. If you plan to upgrade more than this in the future, then just install one now.

Throw in a fuel pressure gauge, an exhaust gas temperature gauge, and a boost gauge. This way you can make sure everything is running right and set up properly.
Old 12-24-02, 04:16 PM
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Upgrade your secondary injectors to 720cc units (stock are 550cc). You might want to throw in a larger fuel pump which flows 255 lph, but it might not be necessary. If you plan to upgrade more than this in the future, then just install one now.
If he upgrades the secondaries without any sort of AFC he's going to be running wildly rich when they kick in. I'd advocate just the walbro with basic mods. Port the living **** out of the wastegate on that baby s4 turbo. I have TID/filter and 3'' dp/mp and I'm only running 7-8 pounds in the lower gears, and 9ish in third and fourth. It is a consistent boost pressure as well, no creep at all. Then again my turbo has the wastegate ported all the way to the stock flap.

I think rebuild is the way to go. Sure it's going to be more expensive, but like other people have said - you will KNOW that it's in good shape if you get it rebuilt yourself. I would go for a street port while you are rebuilding the motor. Everything is apart at that time, so you might as well. From there just go for full intake and full exhuast of your choice. Either go for a series 5 turbo/mannifold or like I said above port the hell out of the s4 wastegate. Get the walbro 255, 720cc secondaries, and a SAFC. If you want go ahead and pick up a cheap boost controller. Then spend a little money on some decent wheel/tire combo, and maybe upgrade the shocks/springs/swaybars. Take it to a dyno and get it tuned with a wideband o2 sensor. Oh forgot to add get a quality boost guage, and a EGT guage. (a/f is useless, just a pretty light show)

The above combo will be one hell of a fun car. It should pull low 13's all day long if you can drive, and handle pretty damn well. Reliability shouldn't be a problem either.
Old 12-24-02, 04:42 PM
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Oops, forgot the electronic fuel management side of it. THanks for the correction. Get an S-AFC.
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