Engine still running after being turned off
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Engine still running after being turned off
I have a 1990 FC that I picked up a while back and it's a decent car but I noticed that when I shut the car off, it continues to run for 3 -5 seconds and I'm afraid to get the emissions done because I don't want it to fail because of that. I would like to get the problem fixed right away but I'm wondering what the problem could be. Has anyone here experienced anything like this before? I don't smell any gas or anything like it's running rich. Thanks in advance for any help.
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This is a guess but I bet your car is dieseling because you either have leaky injectors or your butterfly valve is not closing properly. As far as emissions, I have no idea whether it would pass or not. We don't have emissions in Michigan
Brian
Brian
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Usually it's caused by voltage backfeeding from the alternator circuit. But if that was so it'd keep running until you stalled the engine with the clutch pedal/shift lever.
It could be a defective ignition switch or something else backfeeding into the ignition circuit. Maybe a aftermarket radio wired differently?
It could be a defective ignition switch or something else backfeeding into the ignition circuit. Maybe a aftermarket radio wired differently?
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To answer all questions,
It's not a turbo. I can get the injectors checked out if that's the problem. can you tell me where the butterfly valve is so I can take a look at it?
It's not a turbo. I can get the injectors checked out if that's the problem. can you tell me where the butterfly valve is so I can take a look at it?
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Usually it's caused by voltage backfeeding from the alternator circuit....
It could be a defective ignition switch or something else backfeeding into the ignition circuit....
It could be a defective ignition switch or something else backfeeding into the ignition circuit....
m5runner, what non-stock electrical devices do you have?
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Another thing it could be is that the MAIN RELAY is not relaxing when the key is put to OFF. Mabe it's taking several seconds before the internal contacts seperate killing the feed to the ignitors/coils/ECU.
That's going to be a bit of a difficult problem to figure out if you don't have a meter with long leads on it. Don't just change parts out. That's expensive.
That's going to be a bit of a difficult problem to figure out if you don't have a meter with long leads on it. Don't just change parts out. That's expensive.
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The mech that put the motor in did the electric fan mod and that's it. I do understand what you are saying about the main relay though. The guy that put the motor in said he wants to look at it again to see what it is. I'm just trying to save myself the trip to his house, swapping cars, etc. I am happy it runs, trust me. I got the emissions done today and it was much better than my BMW in that fashion so I'm happy.
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Hailers Beat me to it...wanted to add that you should check Where the electric fan was hooked to..As Hailers said maybe there is something Backfeeding to the ignition,and it could be just that.
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Electric fan instead of the stock mechanical fan is what I understand it to be. So I figure there has to be wires with connectors to that fan. I'd try disconnecting those wires temporarily and then start and then turn the engine off.
I'm assuming this running with the key to OFF, happens each and every time you do that, so if now the wires are taken off the fan, and the engine turns off like a normal engine, then there is the source of the problem. Not the FIX for the problem, but at least knowing what the source of the problem is.
It won't hurt to run the engine with no fan for this small period of time, just don't run the engne for a prolonged period of time like that.
I'm assuming this running with the key to OFF, happens each and every time you do that, so if now the wires are taken off the fan, and the engine turns off like a normal engine, then there is the source of the problem. Not the FIX for the problem, but at least knowing what the source of the problem is.
It won't hurt to run the engine with no fan for this small period of time, just don't run the engne for a prolonged period of time like that.
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Thinking a little more about that...................it may take more than just pulling the wires off the fan. A lot depends on how and where he is tapping into the harness to get power for the fan. I'd help more if you knew where he is getting the power for the fan/fan relay etc and disable that wire and then turn the engine on then off.
Much like the Turbo Timer idea mentioned in one of the first posts.
Much like the Turbo Timer idea mentioned in one of the first posts.
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Originally Posted by fc3sfreek
my car does this as well but im thinkin its cuz the previous owner wired the fuel pump to a seperate switch to turn on and off, it is wired completly seprate from the car and the car wont shut off unless if i turn the fuel pump off and wait a few seconds
Dieseling will keep a motor running for quite a few seconds, BUT the deiseling I've experienced has only been on piston engined cars, never a rotary. When it does that on a piston car it is not a common smooth idle. It's rough and bucking type idle and last usually for only a few to ten seconds (really *depends* on things).
Wish I could spell diesel/deisel (i before e except after c and a bunch of exceptions here and there).
#19
Hailers Beat me to it...wanted to add that you should check Where the electric fan was hooked to..As Hailers said maybe there is something Backfeeding to the ignition,and it could be just that.
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Yes, I'm a female & I don't work on cars but have been around shops for years, did anyone consider pre-ignition?? check this out!!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_...g#Pre-ignition
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/deton.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_...g#Pre-ignition
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/deton.html
Last edited by NOCTRNL27; 12-21-06 at 01:20 AM.
#24
my diesel rabbit did that once, it kind of scared me. i had to rip off the pcv hose because it was running on the engine oil. i don't suppose that really helped you though. Your car needs spark and fuel somehow to run, so check the wiring.
#25
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Originally Posted by NOCTRNL27
not necessarily if corrected before it gets to detonation. Timing, spark plugs etc.