Finally got evverything back together after a four year project and when I start the car, it runs up and shuts down. The duty solenoid valve is constantly clicking as well. It's almost like it gets enough fuel to start, but then runs out.

 

Runs up to about 2000 rpm and then shuts off

 

Could be the TPS (I was missing the adjustment screw one time because it somehow fell off and the car did the same thing) or maybe a bad AFM or a huge vacuum leak.

 

Try jumpering the fuel check connector.

 

I'm thinking more to the fuel system. I put fuel stabilisor into the tank, but it's four years old. so maybe it's not even gas anymore, but on the other hand, wouldn't it not start at all.

 

Which is four years old, the stabilizer or the fuel?

 

The fuel. It still smells remotley like gas. I'm thinking at this point the way forward is to drain the tank, replace the filter and put new gas in and try it again.

 

I did try jumpering the check fuel connecter. The yellow on near the Turbo inlet duct. The manual says to do it for ten seconds to prime the system. The pump does run and It is spitting out gas. I know this because I disconnected the fuel line at the spider and pumped fuel into a jar. 2 things, Fuel really comes out at a high rate and a 1 qt mason jar doesn't give you enough time to react before it fills

 

You want to keep the jumper in place while you try to start the car.

For the fuel pump to continue to run after initially starting requires a signal from the ECU to the Circuit Opening Relay. W/o the signal the car would start then die. This is why you leave the jumper in place to see if the problem is the lack of the ECU signal to keep the pump running.

 

^ Exactly.

Also, make sure the AFM is plugged in.

 

I'll give those a shot and report back. I do have the AFM hooked up.

 

Tried jumpering out the test block and the fuel pump was running and it still did the same thing. I even tried applying 12 volts directly to the cutout relay where the 12 volts signal would come in from the ECU and know difference. I also tried just plugging in another ECU and still the same results. Engine revs to 2000 on start and then shuts down. I haven't found any vacuum leaks and the only air managment systems that aren't connected with the hoses to the engine are the ones that connect into the filter. I didn't think that is necessary because it draws air from the outside anyway, but the afm connecter is connected. Does the engine draw enough air on start that it causes the AFM plunger to move, or is that moved by air puching against it when the car is driving down the road.

 

'to' and 'from' Fuel lines switched (firewall area near fuel filter)?

 

Those were never disconnected during the rebuild and I don't think it's possible to swap them on the spider because of the length of the hoses. I did start draining the fuel to clean out that 4 year old gas that doesn't even smell like gas. What a pain in the a**. I can drop the fuel off at the Chula Vista land fill, but only five gallons at a time and you have to give them the container to keep. of course the car blew up with a full tank

 

There's no way four year old gas could have been good to begin with.

 

Well, I figure by the time I get the fuel out and the tank cleaned up, the new pump and filter should be here from Mazdtrix. I ordered the upgraded fuel pump and a couple of new filters. Just trying to eliminate other things while I'm waiting.

 

is the ECU's ground on the block under the throttle body on good?
is a vacuum line/port left open? (eg, brake booster)?
look @ your vacuum @ those high RPM. should be well above 20 inHG.
if low likely a big vacuum leak.

consider installing a fuel psi gauge so you can see if psi is held.
just T off the high psi line going to the block.

 

I think you misunderstood me. I'm talking about the rubber fuel inlet and outlet hoses that come from the fuel filter and bottom driver's side firewall respectively. The ones that connect with clamps. The pipes they connect to are right beside each other (near the oil filter area) kind of parallel and it's easy to switch these.

 

I went back and looked at the TPS and noticed that the low band wasn't even making contact with the little lever arm after the Tbody rebuild. Got that adjusted, but it made no difference. Checked to make sure the right fuel line went to the right fitting on the spider and all the way back to the tank and they were correct. Remeber how I said that I had the AFM connected electrically but I hadn't installed it? Well I got frustrated that it kept falling off the fender and just installed it with the air pipes connected and the car roared to life. That's right, it finally started and ran for about 2 or 3 minutes and then died out. Does that everytime. It does start and runs for a couple of minutes and then dies out. Now I'm looking at the pump and gas.

 

drain those junk and put new fresh gas in ...

 

The ambiguity related to the AFM made this thread much harder to diagnose then it should have been. Much harder.

 

let me get this straight. AFM had cable connected but hanging over the fender?

is turbo to TB inlet plumbing on?

 

Keep the old gas for starting bbq's.

 

yes, 4 year old gas will be a problem. over time it not only loses it's octane but energy content. ie the engine may start and run but it will run lean due to the stagnant fuel.

drain it and use it in your lawnmower(if it will even run on it).

and yes, the AFM needs to be on the intake suction hose, otherwise after cranking fuel runs dry the engine has no idea how much metered air is entering the engine. the AFM plugged in but not on the hose will be shut, telling the ECU that no air is entering the engine and shutting the injectors off. no offense but i'm not sure why that is a difficult concept and i see it quite a bit.

 

The AFM was connected electrically, but was not hangin by the cable over the fender. Spent a lot of time rebuilding the harness and wouldn't want the connecter to get pulled out or broken. It was sitting on the fender.