So I get my 91 FC turbo back last Dec. from getting it rebuild; Stored it for 99% of winter and only put 100 miles on it. I started it up once and notice a leak on the thermostat housing. It wasn't big enough to overheat the car, so I shut it off and waited to the part to come in to replace it. Once I got it swapped I started it up to bleed the coolant and it sounded as I normally hear it till a minute passes and I hear it sound like this(check file). Can I get your thoughts on this? Is that a blow/low compression engine noise on a rotor?

In the audio I am revving it just a bit then letting it idle.

 

It definitely sounds like it isn't running on both rotors. That doesn't necessarily mean it's blown, but the timing would be a big coincidence since you just had it rebuilt. I would do a compression test.

Is there a warranty on your rebuild?

 

Yeah that's what I figured. As far as warranty...Man I hope so lol. The shop I took it to has been well, not so great on costumer service side and maybe now on the rebuild side of things.

 

I would do a compression test first if I were you, and if the results are bad, see if there is another rotary shop near you.

Then ask them to do a compression test for you (shouldn't be super expensive) and let you record video of the tester. Ask for an itemized quote for a rebuild too (this way you have a sheet with their diagnosis of the engine having lost compression, and what it costs to rebuild it). THEN go back to the original shop and tell them about the low compression, but not the video or the quote you got.

If they take the opportunity to fix it properly, good on them. Also, make sure to ask for a timeframe in which the car will be back to you. Delays can happen for many reasons, but bad shops have been known to make warranty work a headache on purpose and draw out the repair time as long as possible hoping you'll give up.

If they don't take the opportunity or give you some BS about having caused it yourself / revving too high / no oil / whatever, you can now take them to court.

Then take the money from the settlement and pay shop #2 to do the work instead.

Just my $0.02, but it's always better to have documentation to CYA. The last thing you need is to take it back and have them tell you that they won't warranty it because you caused it, or to stall you indefinitely hoping you go away.

A good shop will know that there's nothing more expensive than a bad reputation, especially in as small a community as the rotary community. Hopefully they fix it (assuming compression is the issue).

 

Thanks very much on the input! Unfortunately I'm in Iowa and theres not really a reputable shop near me and the that was closest to me already screw me. I had to transport it to the shop and that was expensive. I guess I will see if I can a compression tester and find out myself.