Engine Rebuild:Will holding 2k at idle damage the new seals?
08-25-03, 07:55 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Engine Rebuild:Will holding 2k at idle damage the new seals?
My car finally got started, but only by pushing it, the rx-7 guy that is working on it said thAT it dies all the time unless u hold idle,( which is suppose to since all the seals are new, anyways what he said he is gonna do to break in the engine is to get it up to 2000 rpms for a long time to get the engine warm up and break in the seals faster, i thiNK that that will damage the engine, ths guy's name is isac and he has worked on 7s for over 10 years.. i mean i dont want my new engine to get fucked.. so guys i woud really appreciate your comments on this thread.
08-25-03, 07:58 AM
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
P.S. He also told me that since the engine was rebuild it has low compression ( duh!) so non of the vaccum lines are working right, nor is it givn enough pressure for the actuators to kick in.
By doin that 2 fo a long time... would that damega something inside the engine? im thinking that since the engine is not building enough compression the 5th and 6th ports are not opening, meaning th engine is not getng enough air. unabeling it to get a compression
By doin that 2 fo a long time... would that damega something inside the engine? im thinking that since the engine is not building enough compression the 5th and 6th ports are not opening, meaning th engine is not getng enough air. unabeling it to get a compression
08-25-03, 08:02 AM
#3
Are you certain that there is no vacuum leaks, especially the gaskets between the manifolds? How low did he say the compression was? Even on a rebuild, it should still be able to hold a somewhat decent idle, around 1k or so. Check for vacuum leaks would be my suggestion.
08-25-03, 10:44 AM
#6
wHiTe kNiGhT
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: ct
Posts: 1,393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ya engines need to break in before they can really hold a good idle, the best thing to do is break it in while having it idle at about 1800 rpms, thats about what mine idled at but i had a vaccum leak to.
its ok if the engine revs to 2k, when i first started mine it was at like 3k, anything after about 3.5k is when your pushing it for the seals.
also i want to ask, did this guy put the engine together for you? it sounds like you dont have the car yet or something.
o ya..a quick tip, get some carb cleaner an spray aronud the vaccum lines, an manifold. if you hear the engine rev up by itself then you have a vaccum leak. you might know this already but if you dont then try it.
i bet its a vaccum, i had a BIG vaccum leak and i couldnt find it, but then i replaced *new* gasket i just put in there, and come to find out that was my problem, i think i might have a tiny leak now but aleast my car idles good, around 800rpm
its ok if the engine revs to 2k, when i first started mine it was at like 3k, anything after about 3.5k is when your pushing it for the seals.
also i want to ask, did this guy put the engine together for you? it sounds like you dont have the car yet or something.
o ya..a quick tip, get some carb cleaner an spray aronud the vaccum lines, an manifold. if you hear the engine rev up by itself then you have a vaccum leak. you might know this already but if you dont then try it.
Originally posted by Rxmfn7
Are you certain that there is no vacuum leaks, especially the gaskets between the manifolds? How low did he say the compression was? Even on a rebuild, it should still be able to hold a somewhat decent idle, around 1k or so. Check for vacuum leaks would be my suggestion.
Are you certain that there is no vacuum leaks, especially the gaskets between the manifolds? How low did he say the compression was? Even on a rebuild, it should still be able to hold a somewhat decent idle, around 1k or so. Check for vacuum leaks would be my suggestion.
08-25-03, 11:45 AM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well he checked the front and rear rotors and they barly hold 80!!!! he said they are suppose to be at 130.. so im i screwed??? damn maybe it just needs more time.. right? im in college right now in gainesville, fl and the mechanic and the car are in jacksonville, fl.. its about 2 hours away. i build the engine myself, but he used a gauge to measure the rotor thingy and he said is less than 8 on each
Trending Topics
08-25-03, 11:49 AM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
even if their was a vacuum leak , wouldnt it matter because he is checking the compression on the rotors right? I mean even if their was a leak teh rotors should have a higher compression
08-25-03, 12:04 PM
#10
boost on the way(GTU II)
dont use carb cleaner to check vacuum leaks... use starting fliud.. maybe even intake cleaner.... .... well dude lets make a comparison....
say u took all of ur fuel injectors out...
then u turned the engine over a few times to get ur comp numbers... its not completely sealed... compression is finding a place to leak out which in ur case is the vacuum leaks.could be n e where... have the engine on and jus spray the fluid around in places near the intake and all hoses to see if u get a change in idle..itll either rev higher or bog a lil.....
well my 2 cents
peace
jack
say u took all of ur fuel injectors out...
then u turned the engine over a few times to get ur comp numbers... its not completely sealed... compression is finding a place to leak out which in ur case is the vacuum leaks.could be n e where... have the engine on and jus spray the fluid around in places near the intake and all hoses to see if u get a change in idle..itll either rev higher or bog a lil.....
well my 2 cents
peace
jack
08-25-03, 12:54 PM
#12
mine had 75 psi when i rebuilt mine. added atf to the housing and it boosted up to 110psi. Now my car is running at 110psi without atf. Im still in break in period so the number should go alil higher.
Your worrying too much man. Its all going to be fine.
Your worrying too much man. Its all going to be fine.
08-25-03, 01:31 PM
#13
I'm sorry to say that your motor is FUCKED. i have heard that saying time and time again. "you need to break it in b4 it holds a idle." your rotor housings are probaly out of specs. there 4 you will never have a good running engine. Hayes told me that 5 different times until i got smart and had a Mazda reman installed. It idled at 750rpms the first start and has not given me **** since.
08-25-03, 01:53 PM
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Daytona beach
Posts: 1,351
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by DAN CARWIN
I'm sorry to say that your motor is FUCKED. i have heard that saying time and time again. "you need to break it in b4 it holds a idle." your rotor housings are probaly out of specs. there 4 you will never have a good running engine. Hayes told me that 5 different times until i got smart and had a Mazda reman installed. It idled at 750rpms the first start and has not given me **** since.
I'm sorry to say that your motor is FUCKED. i have heard that saying time and time again. "you need to break it in b4 it holds a idle." your rotor housings are probaly out of specs. there 4 you will never have a good running engine. Hayes told me that 5 different times until i got smart and had a Mazda reman installed. It idled at 750rpms the first start and has not given me **** since.
what are u talking about...he had all parts measures before assembly
08-29-03, 09:44 AM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok it seems the compression is still between 75 and 80 .... im goign to get teh car today and drive it for about 100 miles and see if it will hold idle. if not ill get ready to do the fuel cut switch... also will another reason for not holding idle or not building compression be:
I have gone premix. Completly block of the omp exit and took that rod that moves in an out on teh front cover.
The engine also had a porting job done to it. Its a street port.
will any of that be causing it it to have that low of compression or like taht guy said my engine is fucked?
I have gone premix. Completly block of the omp exit and took that rod that moves in an out on teh front cover.
The engine also had a porting job done to it. Its a street port.
will any of that be causing it it to have that low of compression or like taht guy said my engine is fucked?
08-29-03, 10:14 AM
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Daytona beach
Posts: 1,351
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey, just drive it a couple hundred miles... just about 800 miles and keep changing the oil. Every engine is different and just give it some time. Its really hard to install the seals improperly if you had the video and you followed the directions properly.
08-29-03, 12:55 PM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have a minor street port very mild, i will show pics with in hours. Also for the switch all i do is cut the wire under the dash in the midlle ( black with white stripe ) and put a wire of the same gauge and split it in 2? and then connected them to the switch?
08-30-03, 10:24 PM
#23
Originally posted by vegeta6263
i have a minor street port very mild, i will show pics with in hours. Also for the switch all i do is cut the wire under the dash in the midlle ( black with white stripe ) and put a wire of the same gauge and split it in 2? and then connected them to the switch?
i have a minor street port very mild, i will show pics with in hours. Also for the switch all i do is cut the wire under the dash in the midlle ( black with white stripe ) and put a wire of the same gauge and split it in 2? and then connected them to the switch?
You cut the black/white wire. And place a switch in between the wires. Thats all to it. Might need some extra wire to extend it so you can mount it properly somewhere.
After a few 100 miles your car will start in its own and build higher compression. Your worrying to much.
08-31-03, 12:58 AM
#25
wHiTe kNiGhT
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: ct
Posts: 1,393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LOL if the throttle body is leaking...guess what this is called.....a vaccum leak. spray some *flameable* CARB cleaner and spray it in that area while holding a steady idle, an if you hear it rev without you reving it, then thats your problem but i dont see how your thottle body is leaking.
and dude get your car back so you dont have to go by what this guy tells you, its your car.
just because it wont idle doesnt mean the engine is messed up, drive an put at least 800 miles then get back to us to tell us how the compression is, dont believe everything u hear. i was scared about my engine but now i know that its ok because i have about 1400 on it an its running strong as ever.
bottom line is that you wont know until you break it in.
and dude get your car back so you dont have to go by what this guy tells you, its your car.
just because it wont idle doesnt mean the engine is messed up, drive an put at least 800 miles then get back to us to tell us how the compression is, dont believe everything u hear. i was scared about my engine but now i know that its ok because i have about 1400 on it an its running strong as ever.
bottom line is that you wont know until you break it in.