im gettin pissed off now cuz i cant get my front flange bolt to come out. i saw a rebuild video, they sed to get a 19mm socket wid a 24 inch half inch driver breaker bar and "bounce the bolt and it will break free." i say bullshit cuz ive been doin it for about 2 hrs now.

anyone else had this problem? or do u know a differen method? help plz thx..

 

is the engine still in the car, or out??

 

its out

 

impact gun

 

LOL is it really safe??

 

i used the impact, still wont come out.. im mad heated now!! eh.. bad trip

 

if you have a good solid stand put it on that, then put you're big breaker bar on the bolt holding the front pulley mount on. get a 4 foot section of pipe on that and you've got it.

if you don't have an engine stand, get it secured on some solid surface wihtout damaging anything.

 

Go rent an electric impact, 3/4 drive. It`ll come loose before you can get your finger off the button. You will want to get a flywheel lock to make things easier. The electric impact will come in handy on the flywheel too.

 

thats the thing, i got EVERYTHING ;D. however after i ate a sandwich, i got it out LOL. breakfast really does start ur day

 

Ah, I was going to say that for mine, I put the engine back on the hoist and put the outside motor mount back on it, lowered the engine to the ground and put the hoist leg over the mount, then put the breaker bar on it the bolt and jumped on it. Came right off. That was after "bouncing it" with a 2 foot breaker bar, a 2 foot cheater, and a small sledge for about an hour.

 

sandwich FTW!

 

FWIW, these bolts have a fine thread and are Loctited in place. So they grip HARD. If the breaker bar trick doesn't work (try a 10 foot piece of pipe on the breaker bar....I have yet to find a bolt this will not remove), then you need an impact gun. It helps a lot to heat the hub to break the Loctite loose.

 

i use a propane torch to heat up the bolt heads on stubborn bolts, the 3rd gen front E-shaft bolt usually is about 2-3 times tougher to remove than any second gen front bolt to give you an idea.

 

I used a 6 foot breaker bar, and a made in taiwan 19mm socket.



Then, I got a craftsman 19mm and got it out.

 

lol RIP socket hahaha

yeah ive used heat on it before that seemed to help ALOT

 

I used a cheater bar as tall as me. If you need some quick help, let me know. I think I sold you some tail laights a while back

 

I have Rear axle nut. When I swapped the Turbo II brakes on, we couldn't get the back axle nut off for CRAP. I even popped the centercap off the wheel, then put the wheel back on it and put the car back on the ground, put the axle nut socket on a 24" 1/2" breaker bar and put a piece of chainlink fence post on it, made like an 8 foot cheater. This STILL did not break it loose, but my friend has a nice shot of me lifting the back of the car off the ground with that bar. I never did get it, I drove it to a local garage and let them do the whole conversion for $150.

 

I stripped the internals on a socket wrench and snapped a craftsmen 1/2 drive impact grade socket adapter on this bolt. Just get the cheapo propane torch from walmart and heat up the bolt for few minutes. It should come off with little problems. If it doesn't come off, you didn't heat it long enough.