engine is in.. PICS INSIDE.... not complete.. have a few q's
09-11-06, 11:18 PM
#1
engine is in.. PICS INSIDE.... not complete.. have a few q's
ok.. well, the new motor is in... still need to throw in the fuel system, intercooler piping, and the exhaust.... along w/ getting the microtec, msd, meth. injection, boost controller, fuel pump, and fd alternator all wired up.... less than one month before this thing needs to get finished!
ok.. need help here! installed a brand new clutch master cylinder, stainless clutch line, and new slave cylinder.... but when i went to bleed the system, nothing happened... i pumped the pedal id say a thousand times... tried opening the bleed valve on the slave, nothing.. even took off the hard line on the master, and pumped the pedal, and no fluid moved at all... so was i supposed to do a bench bleed on the master? what did i do wrong, and what will fix it so i have pressure?
heres the pics
ok.. need help here! installed a brand new clutch master cylinder, stainless clutch line, and new slave cylinder.... but when i went to bleed the system, nothing happened... i pumped the pedal id say a thousand times... tried opening the bleed valve on the slave, nothing.. even took off the hard line on the master, and pumped the pedal, and no fluid moved at all... so was i supposed to do a bench bleed on the master? what did i do wrong, and what will fix it so i have pressure?
heres the pics
09-11-06, 11:29 PM
#2
Yes its slow
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Everything looks good so far, Just a few pointers...look into installing a turbo blanket and separate your wires, keep each wire spaced from another to prevent interference. Other than that...looks like a beast.
09-11-06, 11:31 PM
#3
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why did you change the engine bay from orange to flat black? also, with a microtech you can get rid of and sell that pressure sensor.
edit: by the way, looks great!
edit: by the way, looks great!
Last edited by NOPR; 09-11-06 at 11:33 PM.
09-11-06, 11:37 PM
#6
Originally Posted by NOPR
why did you change the engine bay from orange to flat black? also, with a microtech you can get rid of and sell that pressure sensor.
oh, and i realized i put the sensor on later in the day (stupid me
) .. my avc-r has its own pressure sensor anyways.. and so does my microtec.... so ill take it off when i go back to work on it next sunday
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09-11-06, 11:47 PM
#8
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ok.. need help here! installed a brand new clutch master cylinder, stainless clutch line, and new slave cylinder.... but when i went to bleed the system, nothing happened... i pumped the pedal id say a thousand times... tried opening the bleed valve on the slave, nothing.. even took off the hard line on the master, and pumped the pedal, and no fluid moved at all... so was i supposed to do a bench bleed on the master? what did i do wrong, and what will fix it so i have pressure?
As for the engine bay.... It is extra sexy... Good job bro I love it.
09-12-06, 12:00 AM
#9
yeah, all 3 parts are brand new.. not remanufactured.... i paid more for them in hopes of not having the "faulty reman" headache.... there are absolutely no leaks... just nothing coming out of the master.... could it be the rod that goes into the cylinder? i accidentally unscrewed it not knowing it didnt need to be... and theres an adjustment screwon it that i thought i had it back where it was, but could this be the problem?
09-12-06, 01:11 AM
#11
Finally I have LSD
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Bench bleeding the cylinders help a lot. If they are in the car already have a friend pump the pedal and hold you finger on the line outlet. (take the lines off). By doing this frees the air bubble. The correct way to bench bleed it is to connect a hose from the hose outlet back to the reservor to bleed the cylinders free of air before installing it. Most of the time the master cylinders come with plastic bleeder fitting for bench bleeding. Clean car by the way....
09-12-06, 02:28 AM
#17
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Well personally, out of all of the cars that I have worked on I have never bench bled a clutch master cylinder, only the brake master cylinder. The only reason that it is necessary on a brake system is because you are dealing with alot more lines and the fluid has to cover a greater distance so that little distance supposedly saves you alot of time in bleeding the system (IMNHO this only helps with the brakes also when you are trying to bleed them by yourself... If I have a partner I never do it.) Since, the clutch hydrolic system is so short, if you are using a brand new master cylinder it should be able to build up a good amount of pressure just from pumping. For instance, when I installed a new Tokico slave and master clutch cylinder and a SS braided clutch line on my vert about a month ago, I just pumped the pedal about 20-30 times and it built up the pressure enough to make the pedal "hard." From there on I just had my assistant keep pumping away while I opened and closed the bleeder valve accordingly and removed all of the air out of the system. I am not telling you not to try bench bleeding it, but I am saying that it shouldnt be necessary on this type of system.
09-12-06, 03:35 AM
#20
Since I'm no mechanical guru (I just learn from experience), I would suggest that you take the master-cylinder off, put a little fluid in it while you're holding it, and then manually push on it's cylinder with your fingers (where the "clutch rod" goes). Like literally just pump on that sucker and watch as it sprays fluid out from where the hard-line screws in...
Once you've established that the master-cylinder indeed pumps, install it in place, make sure the clutch-pedal rod is in place, and then pump on the open master-cylinder while it's in the engine bay. Just put a little fluid in there and watch as it geysers out into the engine bay.
Now that you've established that it can push fluid, pour a little more in, and then attach the clutch hard-line and S/S line--just don't install it to the slave yet (one step at a time). Repeat the pumping process with the clutch pedal and watch as it squirts fluid out the S/S line... Ok, now pour some more fluid in and attach it to the slave with the bleeder loose. Again watch as fluid goes everwhere as it sprays out of the open slave... Good!
Now you'll want to bleed it at the slave by having the slave open, pushing down the clutch, closing the slave, lifting the pedal and repeating the process, oh... 5 times. Then, you'll want to have the slave closed as you pump on the pedal (maybe with your hand) like 10 times--hopefully it'll get firm. If it's firm, have someone hold the pedal to the floor while you release the slave. Bleed it like this maybe 5 times making sure the pedal is down if the slave is open (so you don't suck any air in). Ok, even though you could be technically done, you should also bleed it at the hard-line directly above the master-cylinder.
Even though you've probably suceeded in getting all the air out of the master from all the nonsense I just told you to do, it's probably still wise to bleed from here, just to make sure. Making sure the master is bled is key.
Of course, this could be the hard, slow and retarded way to bleed your clutch--but you might as well cover all your bases instead of wondering why it's not working.
So yeah... This is how I solve problems. LOL
Once you've established that the master-cylinder indeed pumps, install it in place, make sure the clutch-pedal rod is in place, and then pump on the open master-cylinder while it's in the engine bay. Just put a little fluid in there and watch as it geysers out into the engine bay.
Now that you've established that it can push fluid, pour a little more in, and then attach the clutch hard-line and S/S line--just don't install it to the slave yet (one step at a time). Repeat the pumping process with the clutch pedal and watch as it squirts fluid out the S/S line... Ok, now pour some more fluid in and attach it to the slave with the bleeder loose. Again watch as fluid goes everwhere as it sprays out of the open slave... Good!
Now you'll want to bleed it at the slave by having the slave open, pushing down the clutch, closing the slave, lifting the pedal and repeating the process, oh... 5 times. Then, you'll want to have the slave closed as you pump on the pedal (maybe with your hand) like 10 times--hopefully it'll get firm. If it's firm, have someone hold the pedal to the floor while you release the slave. Bleed it like this maybe 5 times making sure the pedal is down if the slave is open (so you don't suck any air in). Ok, even though you could be technically done, you should also bleed it at the hard-line directly above the master-cylinder.
Even though you've probably suceeded in getting all the air out of the master from all the nonsense I just told you to do, it's probably still wise to bleed from here, just to make sure. Making sure the master is bled is key.
Of course, this could be the hard, slow and retarded way to bleed your clutch--but you might as well cover all your bases instead of wondering why it's not working.
So yeah... This is how I solve problems. LOL
09-12-06, 01:07 PM
#24
thanks everyone for th help and compliments!
eriksseven... ill have to give that a try... BUT, ill have to have a thousand towels completely surroundin the master so no fluid gets on my engine bay (worked too hard to have some fluid ruin it all )
eriksseven... ill have to give that a try... BUT, ill have to have a thousand towels completely surroundin the master so no fluid gets on my engine bay (worked too hard to have some fluid ruin it all
)