Engine Overheating Please Help
03-09-03, 10:05 PM
#3
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Another thread screwed by the 'upgrade.
03-09-03, 10:12 PM
#4
Refined Valley Dude
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The only thing I've heard is a comment from Ryan (BOOSTD7) that he hoped to have the upload bug fixed this weekend (meaning now...)
edit: Just tried to upload a file to this thread. No dice.
edit: Just tried to upload a file to this thread. No dice.
03-09-03, 10:49 PM
#5
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Here is my situation. My engine is overheating but I am not leaking or burning any coolant. My thermostat is opening at the right temperature. My heat is not working when I turn the heater on. The fan is engaging properly and the water pump works. Also, my idle is 2000 rpm. My guess is the coolant circulation is not as it should be, and there is a clog somewhere. Could the high idle be explained by the water never reaching the sensor that the ECU uses for idle speed, thus making the ECU think the car is cold. This would also expain the lack of heat due to the coolant never reaching the heater core. Thanks in advance
03-09-03, 11:10 PM
#6
Refined Valley Dude
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Originally posted by SaabGuy
It sounds like your logicon is not activating the mix motor. Do you hear a motor when you adjust the heat? Keep in mind that the heat/mix motor sounds just as loud as the fresh/recycled air motor. If you do hear the mix motor, then its a mechanical problem somewhere, check the levers and check your coolant hoses.
If you do not hear the motor it could be 2 things. Your logicon may have bad solder joints, resolder them and replace burnt components. OR the mix motor may have siezed, AND a siezed motor can harm the logicon.
A quick fix to get you by would be to unhook the mix motor and manually tie down the mix lever to the hot possition.
When I bought my tII the logicon wasnt working properly, the owner tied the lever off so he could get heat.
It sounds like your logicon is not activating the mix motor. Do you hear a motor when you adjust the heat? Keep in mind that the heat/mix motor sounds just as loud as the fresh/recycled air motor. If you do hear the mix motor, then its a mechanical problem somewhere, check the levers and check your coolant hoses.
If you do not hear the motor it could be 2 things. Your logicon may have bad solder joints, resolder them and replace burnt components. OR the mix motor may have siezed, AND a siezed motor can harm the logicon.
A quick fix to get you by would be to unhook the mix motor and manually tie down the mix lever to the hot possition.
When I bought my tII the logicon wasnt working properly, the owner tied the lever off so he could get heat.
As for the idle, when was the last time you set your TPS?
Originally posted by Nick86
Start the car, and warm it up well. Turn it off, and unplug the TPS. Now with a multimeter, measure the resistance between the top and right hand pins of the connector (the side attached to the TPS). The key is to turn the screw until you get 1 ohm. Once you do, open the throttle and you should have about 5 ohms. Plug it back in, and go for a drive. fter a bit, repeat the proceedure. It took me 3 or 4 times before I got 1 ohm with no throttle, and 5 at wot. Now, it runs perfectly and the resistance hasn't changed. Take a look at it again. Good luck,
Nick
Start the car, and warm it up well. Turn it off, and unplug the TPS. Now with a multimeter, measure the resistance between the top and right hand pins of the connector (the side attached to the TPS). The key is to turn the screw until you get 1 ohm. Once you do, open the throttle and you should have about 5 ohms. Plug it back in, and go for a drive. fter a bit, repeat the proceedure. It took me 3 or 4 times before I got 1 ohm with no throttle, and 5 at wot. Now, it runs perfectly and the resistance hasn't changed. Take a look at it again. Good luck,
Nick
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03-10-03, 07:53 AM
#8
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
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Replace the thermostat. Make sure it fits. The spring loaded disc about 1" under the stat valve must close the bypass port, or guess what?
The fan clutch will slowly start slipping as it ages. The fan should pull really hard up to about 4k when the motor is hot. It should maintain about 4k as the motor revs higher. Sometimes you can get more life from it by bending outward the bi-metal strip on the front of the fan clutch. The cut-in for the series 4 fan clutch is gradual – it pulls some even when cold. The series 5 fan clutch is more on/off.
My 87 fan clutch was slipping at 2500, when I replaced it - she cooled right down.
The fan clutch will slowly start slipping as it ages. The fan should pull really hard up to about 4k when the motor is hot. It should maintain about 4k as the motor revs higher. Sometimes you can get more life from it by bending outward the bi-metal strip on the front of the fan clutch. The cut-in for the series 4 fan clutch is gradual – it pulls some even when cold. The series 5 fan clutch is more on/off.
My 87 fan clutch was slipping at 2500, when I replaced it - she cooled right down.
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