Which engine mods (port) for track racing
to the OP: but seriously, they do look fine, visually.
The irons could be sent to Chips Motorsports for surfacing and re-nitriding if it suits your goals. A member on here lost a TON of money on a junk 20B, luckily he was able to save the irons through them. Check it out:
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...-853345/page6/
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...-853345/page6/
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
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unfortunatly I am still in germany, and I dont like to send them to michigan -.-
I dont think there are any rotary specialists in my area,
but here is a lot of metal industry (for Mercedes, Porsche...)
Id propably ask around if one of them knows what lapping is
Im still surprized you say the housings look fine...
I dont think there are any rotary specialists in my area,
but here is a lot of metal industry (for Mercedes, Porsche...)
Id propably ask around if one of them knows what lapping is
Im still surprized you say the housings look fine...
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
The irons could be sent to Chips Motorsports for surfacing and re-nitriding if it suits your goals. A member on here lost a TON of money on a junk 20B, luckily he was able to save the irons through them. Check it out:
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...-853345/page6/
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...-853345/page6/
so actually patrick, you should investigate cost of new parts, might not be bad. although there must be some lapping table where you are
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I tried to measure the wear on the side housings,
and with my method I read 2/100-5/100 mm
so it should be less than a tenth
But Im still concerned about the rotor housings and the notches...
I wondered how the apex seals could seal this, but by looking at their tip, I had the answer, I hope you can see it :
And my porting thoughts
with IO 45° BTDC
and IC 70°ABDC
and with my method I read 2/100-5/100 mm
so it should be less than a tenth
But Im still concerned about the rotor housings and the notches...
I wondered how the apex seals could seal this, but by looking at their tip, I had the answer, I hope you can see it :
And my porting thoughts
with IO 45° BTDC
and IC 70°ABDC
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i don't know what you plan on doing for exhaust ports, but it should make BIG power. if anything err on the small side for the ports.
a friend of mine had really good luck with a wide short bridge, sort of like a high lift short duration cam. he used the car as a daily driver and it did 231rwhp@9600rpm, hp was still climbing, but the dyno only reads to 9600!
a friend of mine had really good luck with a wide short bridge, sort of like a high lift short duration cam. he used the car as a daily driver and it did 231rwhp@9600rpm, hp was still climbing, but the dyno only reads to 9600!
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How wide should I leave the bridge ? 4-5mm ?
Do you mean that the eyebrow port is to narrow in the lower area?
Maybe I can go into the bridge there a little more...
But I dont want to go behind the rotor housing edge there, because it will create big overlap...
Do you mean that the eyebrow port is to narrow in the lower area?
Maybe I can go into the bridge there a little more...
But I dont want to go behind the rotor housing edge there, because it will create big overlap...
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yeah my friend went into the water jacket
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Btw I still dont get how I could use a 3piece apex seal for a bridgeport:
when I grind away the blue marked area, wont the seal will fall in the port ?!
Looking on the primary ports,
they are said to close at 50° ATDC
why are the stock ports not using the full area up to 50° !?
and Im thinking of maybe porting the primaries to max 60° ATDC
what do you think?
greets, Patrick
when I grind away the blue marked area, wont the seal will fall in the port ?!
Looking on the primary ports,
they are said to close at 50° ATDC
why are the stock ports not using the full area up to 50° !?
and Im thinking of maybe porting the primaries to max 60° ATDC
what do you think?
greets, Patrick
a) don't use the stock 3 piece seals, use 2 peice new seals. b) just leave the port stock and get a better turbo, ie a ceramic BB turbo. c) stop being a bitch about the rotor housings, they look fine. many people would love to have those housings.
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New bp engine is finally running 
took a while....
finnished the porting in summer 2013
assembled the bp engine in december 2013
but ran in 2014 still with stock engine, i focused the last two years more on aerodynamics
like seen here:
First start and breaking in with stock ECU, to see if everything holds together.
But Haltech ECU is now on the way.
Turbo choice will be a EFR 8374 iwg
Oh and selfmade intake manifold is planed.. ;-)
-Patrick
took a while....
finnished the porting in summer 2013
assembled the bp engine in december 2013
but ran in 2014 still with stock engine, i focused the last two years more on aerodynamics
like seen here:
First start and breaking in with stock ECU, to see if everything holds together.
But Haltech ECU is now on the way.
Turbo choice will be a EFR 8374 iwg
Oh and selfmade intake manifold is planed.. ;-)
-Patrick
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