Engine Install Question
#1
Engine Install Question
It is easier to install the engine with the tranny attached, or otherwise?
I have always installed the bare block onto the tranny, then start to add all the acc. This time I would like to have the engine mostly complete this time.
I think I did it to my 12a some time ago, but that engine is quite different than a 13b Turbo.
Thanks,
Chris
I have always installed the bare block onto the tranny, then start to add all the acc. This time I would like to have the engine mostly complete this time.
I think I did it to my 12a some time ago, but that engine is quite different than a 13b Turbo.
Thanks,
Chris
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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I always pull the transmission at the same time and replace all the seals, so that means I pop the engine in first and then install the transmission afterwards.
If you leave the transmission in the car, it's easy to install the engine ONLY IF you remove the mounts first. If the mounts are in place it's a real pain.
I find the engine-transmission assembly too hard to control when it's bolted together.
If you leave the transmission in the car, it's easy to install the engine ONLY IF you remove the mounts first. If the mounts are in place it's a real pain.
I find the engine-transmission assembly too hard to control when it's bolted together.
#5
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
nah you guys are doing it all wrong. i find it much simpler to remove the block only.
1) pull all the UIM, rats nest, injection rails etc off in the car and disconnect the wiring harness or leave it full block and disconnect the harness inside the car and remove it whole.
2) remove the *5* transmission to engine bolts and starter and remove the 2 nuts from the top sides of the engine mounts and jack up the transmission and engine until it is just touching the top of the transmission tunnel.
3) remove a/c and or power steering from the side of the motor and unbolt the downpipe from the midpipe.
4) the engine should be able to just pull out of the bay right now.
fully disassembling the top end of a fully stock car and removing just the block from the bay usually takes about 3 hours.
oops, i do it reverse order for install. i never remove the transmission from the vehicle, that is just added unecessary work.
1) pull all the UIM, rats nest, injection rails etc off in the car and disconnect the wiring harness or leave it full block and disconnect the harness inside the car and remove it whole.
2) remove the *5* transmission to engine bolts and starter and remove the 2 nuts from the top sides of the engine mounts and jack up the transmission and engine until it is just touching the top of the transmission tunnel.
3) remove a/c and or power steering from the side of the motor and unbolt the downpipe from the midpipe.
4) the engine should be able to just pull out of the bay right now.
fully disassembling the top end of a fully stock car and removing just the block from the bay usually takes about 3 hours.
oops, i do it reverse order for install. i never remove the transmission from the vehicle, that is just added unecessary work.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-31-06 at 03:19 PM.
#6
Law Breaker
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Originally Posted by Karack
nah you guys are doing it all wrong. i find it much simpler to remove the block only.
1) pull all the UIM, rats nest, injection rails etc off in the car and disconnect the wiring harness or leave it full block and disconnect the harness inside the car and remove it whole.
2) remove the *5* transmission to engine bolts and starter and remove the 2 nuts from the top sides of the engine mounts and jack up the transmission and engine until it is just touching the top of the transmission tunnel.
3) remove a/c and or power steering from the side of the motor and unbolt the downpipe from the midpipe.
4) the engine should be able to just pull out of the bay right now.
fully disassembling the top end of a fully stock car and removing just the block from the bay usually takes about 3 hours.
oops, i do it reverse order for install. i never remove the transmission from the vehicle, that is just added unecessary work.
1) pull all the UIM, rats nest, injection rails etc off in the car and disconnect the wiring harness or leave it full block and disconnect the harness inside the car and remove it whole.
2) remove the *5* transmission to engine bolts and starter and remove the 2 nuts from the top sides of the engine mounts and jack up the transmission and engine until it is just touching the top of the transmission tunnel.
3) remove a/c and or power steering from the side of the motor and unbolt the downpipe from the midpipe.
4) the engine should be able to just pull out of the bay right now.
fully disassembling the top end of a fully stock car and removing just the block from the bay usually takes about 3 hours.
oops, i do it reverse order for install. i never remove the transmission from the vehicle, that is just added unecessary work.
#7
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
I also agree with Karack. I would add that if you then want to work on the tranny, it comes out very easy. The car jacks up easy w/o the engine, and the tranny just slides right out.
Also, even if you drain the tranny, you will make a mess due to the angle you have to tilt the assembly (pulling them together). I should have said more of a mess.
Also, even if you drain the tranny, you will make a mess due to the angle you have to tilt the assembly (pulling them together). I should have said more of a mess.
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#8
I just wanna hump my car.
iTrader: (3)
all very useful information... will have to remember it. I ended up pulling the wiring harness of the ECU and everything to pull it out, which was a huge pain in the ***. But this is my first rotor project and am learning as I go. You guys think it would be easier to install the Tranny before I even think about putting the engine back in so I don't have to even mess around with aligning the spline and flywheel while the tranny sits on my chest or on the jack? Also, has anyone got any info about which bolt goes where (tranny - engine)? I would appreciate it, I know the basic pattern but some bolts are about the same length as others. A PM with info would be much appreciated. Thanx
#9
i took out my engine with the transmission it just came right out and put it back in with the transmission thats was a little more difficult considering you dont want to scratch the paint and then get the mounts allied is even worse... I learned the hard way took me like 3 hours just to put the enigne back in and 3 hours to take it out thats with removing the harness from the ecu, flushing radiator, taking out the rad, removing the hood, so i learned note to self "unbolt tranny"
#10
Originally Posted by NeCr0mStR
all very useful information... will have to remember it. I ended up pulling the wiring harness of the ECU and everything to pull it out, which was a huge pain in the ***. But this is my first rotor project and am learning as I go. You guys think it would be easier to install the Tranny before I even think about putting the engine back in so I don't have to even mess around with aligning the spline and flywheel while the tranny sits on my chest or on the jack? Also, has anyone got any info about which bolt goes where (tranny - engine)? I would appreciate it, I know the basic pattern but some bolts are about the same length as others. A PM with info would be much appreciated. Thanx
#11
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
Some may disagree, but I've never found slipping either a clutch or torque converter onto the splines that difficult. Even on FWD cars.
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