marcus219

Bought another motor, has 100K from junkyard, swoosh (chug) comp. tested it, sounded good. While assembling various things whille it was out, put MMO in manifold and cranked it over, also put in spark plug wholes. MMO sat in there for like a good week and a half. Got engine installed today, used the manifolds and injectors off my other engine b/c i knew they worked. Put motor in today, motor cranks but no start. Can smeel fuel, etc., checked for spark, haven't dont a comp test but like i said chug test sounded good (even though comp. could STILL be low). Intake manifold gasket is good, etc, etc.

ECU connections are hooked up as far as we can tell. The clear big connectors from harness to ECU are connected as well as the solid yellow one to solid yellow one. We have to black connections off the side next to the yellow ones that have no connection. One looks male and the other femal but can't find anywhere they might go??? No oil in coolant or anything

Any help greatly appreciated!!!

marcus219

Also..when i pull EGI fuse to unflood after several cranks...motor obviously will not fire, after I re-install fuse, you can hear the motor try to grab..IT WANTS TO START!!!!! We've tried starting fluid....

marcus219

hptnyz7(sp)?????? anybody?

AJII

sounds flooded, try this. Works for me everytime.

Get someone to hold some wire pliers on the fuel line to the enigne. Then you try to start it. Whenever it sounds like its about to start, let the fuel line go. It should stay running.

Good luck!

marcus219

compresssion test=3 pumps of 90psi on front rotor, 30-30-60 psi on rear rotor. HERE WE GO AGAIN!!!







mother ******* **** ******!!!!!!!!!!

Piranha

Marcus, you could have apex seals stuck, and may have to get hte motor going for them to bust loost. As for the pliars... you can do that method, or use a fuel cut switch. Put some ATF in there and then try to crank it. ATF works great for helping start a car.

marcus219

do you think that ATF would be better than marvel myster oil sitting in there for almost 2 weeks? I tried starter fluid several times..if I do ATF, is it going to make my chances of start up any better than MMO in the there?

As for the fuel cut switch, I'm not sure what the guy above was talking about, if he was referring to unflooding the car, its simple...i pulled the EGI fuse to unflood it. After several attempts of starting the car would obviously flood, pull the egi fuse, you dont have spark or more fuel going in, so when you crank the motor all excess fuel is pushed out (simple!!).

Any other suggestions would be great, I bought the car from a junkyard in Puyallup, WA...called Roy "Y" autowrecking, had a 90 day warranty, and was insured to be a good running engine. I'm going to give them a call Monday and talk with them.

A stuck apex seal does sound like a possibility (a good one), i just dont see how putting ATF in the car will be any better than MMO in there (along with being frequently turned over to get it on all faces, especially when MMO is designed for eating away carbon etc..

hypntyz7

IF you have the ability, pull it or push it with anohter vehicle around the neighborhood in 2nd gear with the key on.

IF not, remove the lower plugs, expel all excess BS, put in some motor oil(thick enough to build up compression on almost any engine), clean off yoru plugs or better yet use another set, and fire it up. Sometimes an engine will show low compression until it gets running and then everything returns to normal. Even if it had no compression at all on one rotor, it shoudl still fire up eventually. Check to be sure your timing is close too, if you removed the CAS.

IF you need any personal/time sensitive help feel free to call me after about 1pm tomorrow(sun) or any other day for that matter, 423-748-7977. IM up pretty late.

Matlock

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh! It all sounds so easy "in theory"! AHHHHHHH!

marcus219

I made sure CAS was it position, by putting the yellow mark (trailing i belive) in alighn with the indicator pin on after pulling out CAS. Has brand new plugs, we tried push starting motor several times in 2nd. The thing about putting oil in there is a very good point though, same thing as in a piston motor when you do a wet compression test to see if rings are bad (same idea). Thank you very much! Also, your comment about low compression and then it going back to normal after start (partial break in i guess) is kind of a boost in faith.

Matlock (Steven) on the forum have put in a man hours on my car, and we are starting to loose patience, faith, etc. lol. i hope to God some of those tips works. Thanks again!

Thanks for the number to man....thats nice of ya!

hypntyz7

No problem man, its one of those $6.95/minute numbers j/k

I shoudl start a tech support line though...$3.95/minute or some ****.

1-800-fixurshit

lmao

marcus219

also....the thing about the car starting w/the low compression. My first motor that lost the rear rotor...had 50-30-0 compression on it, and it would still start fairly easy.. WHY ISNT MINE STARTING! It has good comp. on front rotor, and much better on the rear than my other motor.

We've check the 3 things a internal combustion engine needs to operate..fuel, spark, and compression. Fuel pump is working, can smell fuel (its pouring out exhaust), we have spark. Were pretty confident that all electrical connections are hooked up. URGH!

Rotor13B

How can you get 50-3-0 compression? If you lose one apex seal doesn't that take out two sides?(obvious)

momar

When I put in my rebuilt engine, it wouldn't start and would always flood when I tried to start it. What worked for me is that I just stepped on the gas a little when it was cranking and it started right up. Not sure why, but it worked for me.

rpv

make sure all your wires are hooked up right. when we put my new motor in we left 1 little wire off and no start.
if you keep pouring crap into the motor and not get it to run it's just going to get worse. find out why it's not starting.
fuel/air
spark/all electric working
compression
any off these could be problem but you need to trace over your work. the one wire i forgot to connect was hidden in the passeenger sidewall the little white one, connected that and fired first crank. it's easy to miss tings even obvious ones.
hope this helps
robert

marcus219

50-30-0...and I'm almost positive thats what it was...though it makes sense to me what your saying.

i think theres alot more than can be affected after the apex seal(s) broke, as far as damage, etc. maybe.

marcus219

things are VERY easy to overlook, its just discouraging b/c me and 3 of my other wrenching buddys all got our heads in there, and still no fire!

Barwick

yeah check to see the spark plugs are hooked up right, same with injectors and all that jazz. Anything of that sort could muck things up.

I had a similar problem with my '90 TurboII (sadly we couldn't get that engine running, but that was because it had like NO compression). It REALLY came close though when we pushed it downhill and popped the clutch.

Like they said, push it out to the street, get a truck with some tow cable/straps, and put them on them two tow hooks up front, then drop it in 2nd and have the truck SLOWLY start to go with the key off (so it don't flood), then once you get a little bit of speed, turn it to the on position and have him keep going at speed, HOPEFULLY it should start up. Sometimes "new" (different) engines need a little bit more coaxing to start, and the faster they spin the better.

marcus219

pushing starting was tried several times last night, but with 3 guys pushing it....didnt even try to start, AT ALL.

Plug wires are perfecto, along with brand new plugs. Fuel is getting to it, because the gakset from my exhaust manifold to piping is leaking, and every time we unflood gas pours out of there.

marcus219

anybody have any other input on putting oil in the rotor housings to build up compression to fire. It makes perfect sense and sounds like a good idea to me. Its just hard to get it through the spark plug holes, b/c im running p/s, a/c and im using a turkey juice sucker thing (hehe), to suck it out of the bottle and pour it in there..any other way i can it down there. I tired putting it through the vacc. line (spider harness) that goes to oil injectors along with some ATF. Still jack ****. I know i need to get more oil down there, but how?

Aion

If you leave out the spark plugs and push it with another vehicle, don't make the mistake I made and turn on power which then activates the fuel system and injectors. It also activated the spark plug wire which were dangling.

While I was being pusshed around the block by the other car I thought, hey I will spray gas on the rotors and that will help wash the excees oil out the spark plug holes. I had used very large quantities of WD-40 and some motor oil.

The resulting fuel air >>> EXPLOSION <<< created a spectacular fire ball and shattered nearby windows.

It did however, clean the rotors and the engine turned over after the plugs were reinstalled.


Regards

Brian

marcus219

I think your a bit confused man...altough the explosion sounds cool. If your referring to unflooding the engine, pulling the EGI fuse and cranking is the most effective way. That disables fuel and spark, and I crank over, expelling all the excess fuel out of my exhuast port.

DJChunter

Make sure the CAS is plugged in.. that was my mistake a simple plug i forgot when i put my new motor in.. it took me lik e2 weeks to figure it out.. i feel like such a dumb ***...

Dave

marcus219

lol. yea we found various connectoins that weren't plugged in, or weren't plugged in right, but still nada!! I like your motor setup....wanna trade, my non runner for yours..lol.

Barwick

on another note.. pulling the EGI fuse is a very effective anti-theft procedure