Engine install booboo??
#1
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Location: Modesto, ca
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Engine install booboo??
I think they are for the AWP... Not sure... will car run fine without it? I am FLAT broke... In fact, broke would be an improvement. So poor that having nothing would be a positive haha.
Anyway, Here is what broke off while lowering the engine in.
Yup.
Anyway, Here is what broke off while lowering the engine in.
Yup.
#3
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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No, i still have them on...Also, kind of a dumb question, but i took off the oil cooler to put my corkspot SS braided lines on, and am having trouble putting the oil cooler back in. Do I need to uninstall the A/C condenser as well?
#4
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No, the A/C condenser stays put. I had a hard time getting my oil cooler in and out last night when I was changing my A/C condenser, since you're just installing it, here is how I did mine:
I separated the rubber blocks from the oil cooler (4 outward facing nuts) then installed the rubber blocks on the brackets on the car such that only the height of the nut was engaged on the forward facing studs (LOTS of play). I then lifted the oil cooler up, slipped one end over the studs, then pushed it all the way to the opposite side (the rubber blocks have enough play to let you go ~3/4" since they are loose) and tucked the opposite rubber block into position, then installed the 4 outward facing nuts, then tightened the 4 forward facing nuts. I had all the lines attached the engine time, so if you have just replaced your lines they may be oriented differently and giving you a hard time.
I separated the rubber blocks from the oil cooler (4 outward facing nuts) then installed the rubber blocks on the brackets on the car such that only the height of the nut was engaged on the forward facing studs (LOTS of play). I then lifted the oil cooler up, slipped one end over the studs, then pushed it all the way to the opposite side (the rubber blocks have enough play to let you go ~3/4" since they are loose) and tucked the opposite rubber block into position, then installed the 4 outward facing nuts, then tightened the 4 forward facing nuts. I had all the lines attached the engine time, so if you have just replaced your lines they may be oriented differently and giving you a hard time.
#5
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
The valve is part of the double throttle system. There's an explanation here of the S4 system, which is very similar to an S5: http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/intakeair.shtml. Bypassing is an option, but a replacement would be dirt cheap.
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