Whaddup 'Heads,
Help me out here. I have encountered a mysterious condition after a rebuild - by the way, this ain't my first rebuild:
Assembled engine (just replacing water seals and o-rings), torqued everything down and after putting the flywheel on, spun it about "6" times, then the engine kind of snugged to a halt, not "clink", but more of a wedging feel.
The only thing I did different with this engine was I torqued it down to 31/ft. lb., instead of the 29/ft. lb. max. Also, I didn't have the front pulley on and found that after I took the front cover off and leaning the engine forward the oil pump chain had bound against the counterweight.
Think this is my only problem? Overtorque, maybe (only 2 lbs.)?
Whatdya think?
Thanks in advance.

 

No 2 lbs would not cause that problem

 

Yes, I use 40lb for my engines, as Im uncomfortable with 23-29 the factory specifies. You wont have any problems if they were tightened in sequence and evenly.

The things that I've seen makes engines bind were

-rotor apex grooves not completely cleaned before assembly (the carbon built up under the spring left in place) which, when combined with the height of the new apex seal, and the springs, results in the seal not being able to compress fully,

-front or rear stationary gears not fully tightened down, or installed at an angle.

-lack of lubrication on the bearings during install

-improper assy of parts under the front cover (sounds like this is your issue).

 

Damn your fd looks sweet kev. how long that take u to build.

 

Ive had it since october of last year, didnt get it on the road until febuary. Just got the body done last week. THe drivetrain is still bone stock, but not forever. Im still working on the 'verts new setup, so I cant tear into the FD yet.

 

I cant wait to come down to pick up my car and check out both of those amazing 7's.

 

As for the Tension Bolts, did you spin them off with an Air Compressor? If so, It makes It likely to warp the Housings.

 

Huh?
I do that all the time.


-Ted

 

If after you pull the oil pump chain and front counter weight off .........it still binds.........bite hard on a bullet and take the thing apart. Something has fallen out of place and is digging in. That said you've probably already found out what is wrong by now. What was it? Definitly not overtorque.

 

heh, most Rx-7 owners bite the bullet so much are teeth have cracked.....

 

could an o ring have come out while you were putting it together and caught on the rotor....You probably would have noticed the gap, but who knows.

 

I'm thinking the stuff under the front cover might be shifting 'cause the pulley isn't in place.
I'm gonna give it a look this weekend and let you guys know. Just the strangest thing, never had this happen before .
Who knows, maybe I goofed and put one of those parts out of sequence. It can happen.
Thanks guys. I'll keep you posted.

-turb'd

 

I guess I am being overly pre-cautious...my preferance Is to remove the bolts by socket to break free the bond and than take a gun to It. I've been told that warping can occur If you go straight with an air gun, but whatever.

 

hehe, none of our 1/2" drive guns can easily taken them off.
I do take a breaker bar and torque them all loose first.
Is that okay with you?


-Ted

 

Sounds like you dropped the rear thrust bearing, do you have any end play?

 

Whaddup 'Heads,
UPDATE!!! THIS JUST IN...
Guess what the problem was (you'll get a kick outta this)? You know how we put towels and things in the ports to keep things from getting inside the engine? Well, I used newspaper and overlooked one of the intake ports and it got snagged and pulled into the intake port - had to fish it out.
Talk about GOOF !!!
Thanks for all the input - POWER TO THE ROTOR!!!

-turb'd